Jump to content

Throttle body from Soler Performance

bartstan
 Share

Recommended Posts

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted
On 9/28/2019 at 6:52 PM, Jacoby said:

How much money did you waste on that?  Should have just gotten a tuner. 

 

Sounds like you dont know what the Solar Performance TB is worth. No tuner can fix what this TB does and if anything the TB is something that should be done in addition with tuning.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

OR, "I can't afford one so it must be junk" situations.  

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

Quick observation on this thread. As usual we have two sides naturally.    1.) I've tried it and this the result of that experience.  2.) I have NOT tried it and yet condemn it.   

bartstan
bartstan

I  have a 2018 Denali 1500 6.2 liter truck and was wanting something to wake up the truck. The throttle response on the truck was not very good. Only mods I have on the truck are an airraid junior int

Posted Images

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

I know a few people who have throttle boosters. My 15 Hyundai had one on the dash. Called an eco button. Smart auto manufacturers program much of their acceleration at the pre half throttle input. It gives the sense of more power. My Camry will red line shift at half throttle. The second half doesn’t give much more. Just floor it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, TJay74 said:

the TB is something that should be done in addition with tuning.

You took the words right out of my mouth
 

it’s a pointless mod by itself especially on a NA motor. Forced induction it makes plenty of sense. 

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Jacoby said:

You took the words right out of my mouth
 

it’s a pointless mod by itself especially on a NA motor. Forced induction it makes plenty of sense. 

 

Again, maybe you should try it before you say it doesnt. I have ran a ported TB on my last 4 GM vehicles, all of them put down more power and had more throttle response from it.

 

Case in point, my 2017 Camaro SS, I added a ported TB and intake manifold and put down almost 25 more RWHP from those two mods alone, with zero tuning. After adding catless headers, RF CAI, the ported Im/TB and E85 and tuned I was putting down 460rwhp on E60 and 435 on 91 octane. Dang near what the vehicle is rated at from the factory with the 455hp rating.

 

Also if a ported TB will work on a supercharged engine depends on the type of supercharger (PD versus centri). I added a Procharger D1SC to the same Camaro and since the Procharger pushes air thru the system any mods to say the TB or IM dont really affect power and or add to power. The PD blowers are a different equation, they can and will see gains from a ported TM, IM or even replacing the manifold with say the MSD Atomic manifold along with any decent CAI systems.

 

I have a 16 Sierra 6.2l / A8 and it has a ported TB on it, made a very noticeable improvement in driveability and picked up some power. You would have to understand how GM programs and uses the TB to see that there are some nice gains to be had going with a ported TB. GM no longer uses a separate idle air control valve or circuit to control the idle, it is all done using the TB now. With that the TB has to be ported carefully as to not mess with the idle circuit part of the TB. This is where Mike over at Soler Performance has done his research.

 

They make a very reputable product and the Camaro guys on the 6th gen page are all reporting strong gains with his TB setup.

  • Like 2
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Quick observation on this thread. As usual we have two sides naturally. 

 

1.) I've tried it and this the result of that experience. 

2.) I have NOT tried it and yet condemn it. 

 

Group 1 has a first hand comparison between the two thus at minimum an informed opinion. Maybe even some data! One person data logged and considered the EVIDENCE. Novel idea, eh? Actual facts! 

 

Group 2 has ???????????????????????????????? just another uniformed rant. :(

 

 

 

  • Like 4
bovineplane Enthusiast

bovineplane

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Quick observation on this thread. As usual we have two sides naturally. 

 

1.) I've tried it and this the result of that experience. 

2.) I have NOT tried it and yet condemn it. 

 

Group 1 has a first hand comparison between the two thus at minimum an informed opinion. Maybe even some data! One person data logged and considered the EVIDENCE. Novel idea, eh? Actual facts! 

 

Group 2 has ???????????????????????????????? just another uniformed rant. :(

 

You forgot group 3. I have not tried it and I did not condemn it. Simply agreed the symptoms pre-swap exist on both vehicles mentioned :)

 

 

  • Like 1
Ozer Enthusiast

Ozer

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, bovineplane said:

 

Group 4: Im just here to read the arguments, i cant afford these mods :)

  • Like 3
Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC Enthusiast

Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC

Posted
Posted

We are on board with most comments, here. Our cars can definitely benefit from a better valve (TB), better pedal mapping (TC), and a custom tune (calibration). It doesn't have to be one or the other, do all three if you can afford it.

 

Also, keep mind that many folks still have warranty and don't want to tune yet.

 

Obviously, GM, or any other make for that matter, cannot please everybody. This is for those who think the stock response is not for them. Nothing wrong with stock response if that is the way you think it should be.

 

The one thing that is not a matter of opinion, is that throttle response can be measured as mass airflow per degree of valve opening at constant pressure differential, or pressure drop per degree of valve opening at constant flow. There are ways to do it on and off the car. This is just a modulating valve and they all have a response curve depending on its geometry, we changed its geometry and so did the response curve.

 

Those sensing it responds better and more linear are not making it up, it does so, and it is measurable.

 

Thanks,

  • Like 3
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

how is Solar TB better than an LT5 TB ?

 

1. price?

2.cfm/throttle angle? 

3. reliable beyond or equal to oem?

4. can the throttle enhancer do the same thing as solar?

 

Edited by flyingfool
Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC Enthusiast

Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

how is Solar TB better than an LT5 TB 

Our LT1/LT4 modified TB's are better than the stock LT5 TB at low/part throttle. Our LT5 modified TB (pic below) is better than the stock LT5 TB right off idle and all the way to WOT.

 

 

Main.JPG

WOT Flow Area.JPG

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

yeah that graph just looks like the oem TB with a throttle enhancer used to raise the midrange. doesnt seem like any upgrade over OEM to me..

Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC Enthusiast

Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

how is Solar TB better than an LT5 TB ?

 

1. price?

2.cfm/throttle angle? 

3. reliable beyond or equal to oem?

4. can the throttle enhancer do the same thing as solar?

 

1) LT1/LT4 exchanges or rework your own $275. New $435. LT5 exchanges or rework your own $335, New $535.

2) See pic above. I owe you a dyno at full throttle (coming soon) but don't buy it just b/c of that unless you have other mods to help airflow everywhere else at WOT. TB is king at part throttle, not so much at WOT, at least not by itself.

3) We only work with OEM's, no copies, no subtitutions of any single component. Equally reliable.

4) No, throttle controllers only change the pedal mapping, they can't change the valve (TB) response curve, they just simulate a larger pedal stroke than actual/stock.

 

Thanks,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,429 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...