Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
What up.  Question for ya, is the front cranked all the way or can you dial it back a bit?  Curious because I have this kit being installed Friday and hoping maybe it would help with the ride?
 
Dig that color combo by the way.

The keys by design allow the lift without have to over crank them. They are meant to provide a 3” lift and it gave a true 3” lift in the front.

But of course you could try dialing them back and see if it helps.

To be clear, it’s not horrible ride, but I just came from a BDS kit with full custom icon coilovers and rear shocks so of course it’s not as good as that haha.

Honestly my biggest “complaint” is the feel of limited travel which you mostly feel on larger bumps or speed bumps where the suspension would by going through more suspension.
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I took this photo the other day and wanted to post it up for reference. I “think” this is part of the issue I’m experiencing where I mentioned it feels like I have limited travel. Well not an issue per se because I don’t believe it’s an issue with the Readylift kit, I believe it’s just what you get with leveling kits that don’t lengthen the spindle and/or provide better UCA angles with a redesigned UCA.

 

But you can see if the photo how close the UCA is to the stop, this is the truck sitting at a normal stance on flat ground.

 

FYI, this is just what I suspect from visually looking at this. I could be completely wrong in my thinking [emoji39]

 

If anyone sees this with a stock truck, post up a photo of how close your UCA is to the drop, it’d be a good comparison

 

dcde1750a94d0daa80ae2412d2694c56.jpg

 

Posted

Here is a pick I took after the kit was put on mine.

9A747B79-4AE8-4A8B-9773-CA8ACA434F83.jpeg

B6C453A8-0C5F-4D99-81C1-2B3188B60A54.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
Here is a pick I took after the kit was put on mine.
9A747B79-4AE8-4A8B-9773-CA8ACA434F83.thumb.jpeg.6bcb8f5e864eb416db0d2817ae2f8b33.jpeg
B6C453A8-0C5F-4D99-81C1-2B3188B60A54.thumb.jpeg.6966f52ef99eccb96516da2f451d4a2b.jpeg

Thanks, it looks like your UCA’s have a little more room to move, you have the rough country 3/1 don’t you?
Posted
30 minutes ago, FirstAscent said:


Thanks, it looks like your UCA’s have a little more room to move, you have the rough country 3/1 don’t you?

Yes with arms

  • Like 1
Posted

Operation Baby Lift complete.  I also went with the 3/2 Readylift.  Still waiting in the 500mi break-in and check-up but so far I like it.  Pro: I can definitely notice the difference in hight and my reverse is no longer rubbing the wheel liner.  Con:  Yes it's a little stiff on the rebound... but then again, this is a 2500.  Tires:  35x12.5x20 G2s on 20x9 Grenades, 0 offset. 

20200430_190921.jpg

20200501_185613.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
Operation Baby Lift complete.  I also went with the 3/2 Readylift.  Still waiting in the 500mi break-in and check-up but so far I like it.  Pro: I can definitely notice the difference in hight and my reverse is no longer rubbing the wheel liner.  Con:  Yes it's a little stiff on the rebound... but then again, this is a 2500.  Tires:  35x12.5x20 G2s on 20x9 Grenades, 0 offset. 
20200430_190921.thumb.jpg.e80a7dcdc20646cc2ab266726c2cf3b7.jpg
20200501_185613.thumb.jpg.65f2823ad08ed4efa49f01b91479d421.jpg

Congrats, looks great! Yes I love the height, it’s perfect, I have zero rub as well.
Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, FirstAscent said:

I took this photo the other day and wanted to post it up for reference. I “think” this is part of the issue I’m experiencing where I mentioned it feels like I have limited travel. Well not an issue per se because I don’t believe it’s an issue with the Readylift kit, I believe it’s just what you get with leveling kits that don’t lengthen the spindle and/or provide better UCA angles with a redesigned UCA.

 

But you can see if the photo how close the UCA is to the stop, this is the truck sitting at a normal stance on flat ground.

 

FYI, this is just what I suspect from visually looking at this. I could be completely wrong in my thinking emoji39.png

 

If anyone sees this with a stock truck, post up a photo of how close your UCA is to the drop, it’d be a good comparison

 

dcde1750a94d0daa80ae2412d2694c56.jpg

 

what about a coilover conversion and just eliminating the torsion bars?....seems like best way to go but most expensive as well....and maybe not good for towing?

Edited by Dunn
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Dunn said:

what about a coilover conversion and just eliminating the torsion bars?....seems like best way to go but most expensive as well....and maybe not good for towing?

Yes, a coilover conversion is actually the true end goal, just waiting for BDS to release one haha. I don't think there would be any issues towing, they would design the kit with proper components and spring rate to match the weights needed of these trucks. BDS is a sound company, you can't go wrong with any of their products in my opinion. 

Posted

ahh, they don't have one yet

 

that's is probably the way I would go but not in a hurry....these trucks are plenty big, just hair higher in front good enough for me.....the quality of ride most important....they actually don't ride too bad stock, steering is bit more vague and suspension is firmer but not bouncy like 1500s....was gonna just get shocks but why, if I just gonna tear em out anyway

 

I would float the idea of conversion with just like an eibach set or Bilstein but don think that's possible.....around 5k for these kits?

 

 

Posted
ahh, they don't have one yet
 
that's is probably the way I would go but not in a hurry....these trucks are plenty big, just hair higher in front good enough for me.....the quality of ride most important....they actually don't ride too bad stock, steering is bit more vague and suspension is firmer but not bouncy like 1500s....was gonna just get shocks but why, if I just gonna tear em out anyway
 
I would float the idea of conversion with just like an eibach set or Bilstein but don think that's possible.....around 5k for these kits?
 
 

Yeah coilover conversions are pricey, but makes sense. I mean coilovers alone are $2k+ and there’s more changes needed than just going from a strut to a coilover.

My plan was to stay stock until BDS released a kit but I already had my wheels and tires and really wanted to install them haha. The Readylift was less than $500 and gave me the look I wanted in the meantime. Hoping I can get some of the money back later on, we’ll see.
Posted
On 5/4/2020 at 7:41 PM, inquenciocha said:

20200430_191108.jpg

20200504_191231.jpg

@inquenciocha how far do your tires stick out with those 9/0 offset?
 

what do you all think about 18” wheels on this truck. I like that older look with smaller wheel/more tire but I don’t know how it will look on these 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...