Leveling kits? If so, let's see them.

2011Chevy · September 9, 2020

1 hour ago, doozer78 said:

So i got same kit as you. Did u have to do any trimming for 37s? I ordered 22x10 wheels -19 offset. Just not sure to go with 35x12.5×22 or 37x12.5x22 I dont wanna deal with major trimming issues

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

On mine, the bumper side of the felt fender liners on each side were cut off from the bottom up a few inches, But that’s really it. With such a big offset that comes with a -19 wheel, I don’t know what other rubbing issues you might have, but I’d guess there will be some with 37’s......unless someone else here has done it.

I know that a 37 on a +18 or +20 offset, the trimming is essentially the same as mine on factory wheels. I’ve seen it up close and driven one with that setup and my lift.

Edited September 9, 2020 by 2011Chevy

doozer78 · September 14, 2020

The front end height is achieved with new keys that are indexed differently than the factory keys, but doing that alone will give you a stiff ride. That’s why the lift includes new upper control arms-to allow for appropriate travel between the bottom of the arm and the metal frame stop. It also includes front differential drop spacers, which eliminates the bound up feel that these have when you just crank the keys up. Those things, along with the shock spacers, will keep the ride nice. I drove a truck for a day with this same setup on factory rancho shocks and I can say that my upgrading to bilstein 5100’s was well worth it. There is a noticeable difference in ride quality.

The rear block, to me, was essential, because these new trucks have a lot less rake than in years prior, so you aren’t raising the front much before you are slightly higher than the rear. I would not want more than the 1.5” block in the rear for me personally. I’m not a tall guy and this truck sits up high by most anyone’s standards like this.

35’s with this setup on factory wheels will certainly work, and if 35’s is all you want, I’d leave the rear block out. I have a close friend who has nothing in the rear with 35’s on factory 20’s. It looks good, looks proportionate to the front just being slightly higher than stock. But it does not have the stance that my truck has, not even close. You could mistake his for being totally stock if you didn’t know better.

What do you think makes his stance so different than yours? Just the fact he left the blocks out or is it the tire size? I'm so torn between 35s and 37s or does he have a different kit altogether?

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

2011Chevy · September 14, 2020

His kit is nothing more than new keys and front shocks spacers, quite different than my set up.

The stance on my truck is so different because of both the rear block and taller tires, but keep in mind that my front end is also considerably higher than his-I’m able to go higher because of the fact that I have aftermarket upper control arms. He has adjustment left in his torsion bars to go up higher, but if he does, he’ll be higher in front than rear AND his truck will ride horribly because his factory upper control arms are touching (or close to) the frame stop.

To me there is no downside to 37’s (unless touching frame at full lock bothers you). I’ve driven both set ups and there is not a enough of a difference in power loss from 35 to 37 for me to even consider 35’s.....both trucks have all terrain type tires-35in toyo AT and my 37in nitto ridge grappler.

doozer78 · September 14, 2020

His kit is nothing more than new keys and front shocks spacers, quite different than my set up.

The stance on my truck is so different because of both the rear block and taller tires, but keep in mind that my front end is also considerably higher than his-I’m able to go higher because of the fact that I have aftermarket upper control arms. He has adjustment left in his torsion bars to go up higher, but if he does, he’ll be higher in front than rear AND his truck will ride horribly because his factory upper control arms are touching (or close to) the frame stop.

To me there is no downside to 37’s (unless touching frame at full lock bothers you). I’ve driven both set ups and there is not a enough of a difference in power loss from 35 to 37 for me to even consider 35’s.....both trucks have all terrain type tires-35in toyo AT and my 37in nitto ridge grappler.

I have same kit u got the superlift one just deciding on tires. Just scared with the-19 offset I may have some extra trimming

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

2011Chevy · September 14, 2020

I understand, and agree with that concern. Looking at mine on factory offset, my best guess would be that you will trim (or loose) the factory plastic mud flap at the cab side of wheel well, Along with likely bumper and/or plastic valence trimming on the front of wheel opening. A 37 on a -19 offset really puts the tires outside the body.

I don’t remember seeing a 37 on that large a negative offset without 5in of lift or more, but there are a few out there with level only on 35’s and a negative 19...looks like minor trimming, with one saying he removed the plastic mud flap...

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/913000/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-fuel-triton-d609-rough-country-leveling-kit

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1147608/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-hostile-gauntlet-rough-country-leveling-kit

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/984682/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-hostile-alpha-2-inch-level-stock

FirstAscent · September 16, 2020

Just wanted to chime in really quick to add some data points for ya to help with your decision

I have 22x10, -19 offset with a wide 35 (325/50R22 ridge grappler), it’s basically a 35x13.

I have the 3/2 leveling kit (3” keys with 2” block), the stance is great but I had to trim the tire side of the mid flap as well as some of the liner. The trimming is fairly minimal and looks good and clean

Zero rub as long as I don’t hit a bump at full lock.

So with a 37, depending on tire width, you’d have some more trimming to do.

I’m actually about to drop the front about an inch and putting on a 1” rear block instead. For me the 3/2 kit is a perfect stance, but I’m a little nose high on my fifth wheel which is the sole reason I’m dropping it an inch, sadly

gSwift · September 16, 2020

3 hours ago, FirstAscent said:

Just wanted to chime in really quick to add some data points for ya to help with your decision

I have 22x10, -19 offset with a wide 35 (325/50R22 ridge grappler), it’s basically a 35x13.

I have the 3/2 leveling kit (3” keys with 2” block), the stance is great but I had to trim the tire side of the mid flap as well as some of the liner. The trimming is fairly minimal and looks good and clean

Zero rub as long as I don’t hit a bump at full lock.

So with a 37, depending on tire width, you’d have some more trimming to do.

I’m actually about to drop the front about an inch and putting on a 1” rear block instead. For me the 3/2 kit is a perfect stance, but I’m a little nose high on my fifth wheel which is the sole reason I’m dropping it an inch, sadly

I love my new AT4, but damn, your truck makes me wish I went with a Silverado High Country

doozer78 · September 16, 2020

Just wanted to chime in really quick to add some data points for ya to help with your decision

I have 22x10, -19 offset with a wide 35 (325/50R22 ridge grappler), it’s basically a 35x13.

I have the 3/2 leveling kit (3” keys with 2” block), the stance is great but I had to trim the tire side of the mid flap as well as some of the liner. The trimming is fairly minimal and looks good and clean

Zero rub as long as I don’t hit a bump at full lock.

So with a 37, depending on tire width, you’d have some more trimming to do.

I’m actually about to drop the front about an inch and putting on a 1” rear block instead. For me the 3/2 kit is a perfect stance, but I’m a little nose high on my fifth wheel which is the sole reason I’m dropping it an inch, sadly

Man looks great. I have my lift, basically same as yours but also has new ucas have the wheels 22x10 -19 offset also just debating on 35s or 37s really want 37s but i dont wanna have to do major trimming

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

FirstAscent · September 17, 2020

I love my new AT4, but damn, your truck makes me wish I went with a Silverado High Country

I love the high country grill, completes the truck!

Man looks great. I have my lift, basically same as yours but also has new ucas have the wheels 22x10 -19 offset also just debating on 35s or 37s really want 37s but i dont wanna have to do major trimming

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

Thanks! Here are two photos of the front and rear of the wheel well which shows the amount of trimming I had to do. So you would need to do a little more.

You can see where I trimmed part of the mud flap, I bet you’d need to trim some of the liner as well.
Also depends on the width of the 37.

doozer78 · September 17, 2020

Thanks! Here are two photos of the front and rear of the wheel well which shows the amount of trimming I had to do. So you would need to do a little more.

You can see where I trimmed part of the mud flap, I bet you’d need to trim some of the liner as well.
Also depends on the width of the 37.

I ended up ordering the 35s eventhough I wanted the 37s but didnt wanna have issues. Went with a 35x12.5r22

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

doozer78 · September 17, 2020

Thanks! Here are two photos of the front and rear of the wheel well which shows the amount of trimming I had to do. So you would need to do a little more.

You can see where I trimmed part of the mud flap, I bet you’d need to trim some of the liner as well.
Also depends on the width of the 37.

What do you have your tire pressures set at?

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

FirstAscent · September 17, 2020

What do you have your tire pressures set at?

Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

I was running a lot lower, maybe 55f/50r, which is still way more than plenty according to the load range table. But right now I’m about 65f/75r since I’ve been pulling my fifth wheel frequently, which is still well on the safe end and I could go lower.

Note: I’m basing my pressures off the load range table for my tire size. It’s changed by tires size and load rating (E, F, etc).

Al I’m saying is the load range for my tire size will be slightly different than yours