Jump to content

Noisy steering column

STGS

By STGS
in Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MTU Alum
MTU Alum

The rattle you are likely hearing is hydraulic.  It occurs at low speeds around 5 to 15 mph when hitting chatter bumps or larger bumps in parking lots.  I often get it driving into driveway when going

Warren underhill
Warren underhill

I have the same steering clunk at low speed turns as well on my 2020 Denali HD with digital steering. I hoped in a new ltz Silverado and the same thing...... I haven’t herd that noise since my 2006. T

STGS
STGS

It's definitely inside the cabin.  I would say it's the bearing or bushing in the column. It coincides with the turning of the steering wheel at slow speeds.

Muleytime Enthusiast

Muleytime

Posted
Posted

YES!  I posted the video a few months ago of my clunking.

 

If it''s the same issue as mine, the intermediate shaft needs to be replaced. Had mine done 2 weeks ago, and it fixed it. It was less than a 2 hour job as well.

 

Your dealer should be aware of this fix. Good luck.

  • 1 month later...
RossEGCA Enthusiast

RossEGCA

Posted
Posted

I have a 2020 Sierra AT4 HD Diesel and it has 7,500 miles on it.  I just noticed the clunk today.  Has anyone had any luck getting the dealer to fix it?

  • 3 weeks later...
LarryM Enthusiast

LarryM

Posted
Posted

I had a "click" as well, after the third visit they ended up replacing the entire column. First they said it was some gear. When I brought it in they said they had a bulletin that says if they have to replace that, they need to replace the entire column so they ordered that next. It is finally gone though.

DrIYankem Enthusiast

DrIYankem

Posted
Posted
On 9/16/2020 at 4:59 AM, LarryM said:

I had a "click" as well, after the third visit they ended up replacing the entire column. First they said it was some gear. When I brought it in they said they had a bulletin that says if they have to replace that, they need to replace the entire column so they ordered that next. It is finally gone though.

Can you help with the bulletin number or something to help identify the fix. Thanks 

DrIYankem Enthusiast

DrIYankem

Posted
Posted

My 2020 denali duramax has a clicking rattle type noise when turning left. Also when turning down hill at slow speeds feels like vibration through the front end, it sounds like grinding. 
Any help appreciated. 

rialbh New Member

rialbh

Posted
Posted

Finally, I am not alone with this problem. I just bought my 2020 Sierra Denali HD and the steering wheel was loose from day one. Additionally, there was an annoying rattle when I would go over humps like a driveway curb, while turning sharply at low speeds. They initially replaced the steering shaft and it helped with the loose steering wheel, but the annoying rattle was still there. Today they replaced the entire steering column and the rattle is still there and it’s just as bad. Three dealerships said they have never heard of this before and I was basically told today that I will just have to live with it until GM engineers a new solution for the steering column rattle. I’m losing my mind because I refuse to accept that answer, after buying a $100,000 truck less than two months ago. From researching it online, etc. some people have talked about the steering box being the problem in older models, so I’m reaching out to see if anyone else has a 2020 and had the entire steering column replaced? Was the rattle still there? Were you able to ever get it fixed? If so, what was the ultimate problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted

The rattle you are likely hearing is hydraulic.  It occurs at low speeds around 5 to 15 mph when hitting chatter bumps or larger bumps in parking lots.  I often get it driving into driveway when going from gravel to concrete pad.  The power steering cooler is actually rattling due to hydraulic pulses going through it.  There is not a fix for it.  Couple things you can try:  remove the radiator close out (piano keys) and you will see the brush cooler.  Loosen the bolts holding the cooler and make sure the cooler can move freely.  Retighten the bolts.  You can also look at your power steering pump and make sure the supply and return lines are not touching.  If they are, loosen one of the bolts and rotate the pipe.  Neither of these will 100% fix it.  You guys are as frustrated as me with this.

 

#iworkforGM 

  • Thanks 2
  • Haha 1
DrT New Member

DrT

Posted
Posted

Has anyone had luck with getting this repaired. Mine clicks and clunks at slow speeds regularly. Has a clunk from 11 o’clock to 2 o’clock... any more suggestions? 

Dnuts New Member

Dnuts

Posted
Posted

I’ve had my intermediate shaft replaced once at 6000km and now at 8500km its clunking again at low speeds. Definitely hoping for a recall or support from the aftermarket because man it’s annoying. 

In2racn Enthusiast

In2racn

Posted
Posted
On 11/12/2019 at 10:35 PM, Babymac said:

I have an appt next Monday to have my steering column replaced. It has a clicking sound just off of center to the left to right. 

Mine has the exact same issue. They are replacing some parts in my steering column. I am not exactly sure what needs replacing yet, but I will report back after the repair.

The noise occurs as the steering crosses center when you steer left and right. 

st24 New Member

st24

Posted
Posted

I have a 2020 AT4 2500 Duramax that I have had for about 6 months. This issue started around 6k miles. At first I only noticed it in the mornings when temps were below 50 degrees F. The noise is a clicking noise when you move the steering wheel left to right or just off center at slow speeds. You can even do it in park just shimmying the steering wheel. When temps are warmer the clicking isn't as noticeable.

 

I finally took mine into the dealer yesterday and they claim "normal". Clearly not normal as it didn't do it the first 6k miles. Obviously GM doesn't know what is wrong yet, nor have a service bulletin to fix it.

 

I also had a second clunking noise randomly occurring at cold temps as well from somewhere underneath the cab. There is a service bulletin to loosen and retorque the rear leaf springs. The dealer did do this yesterday and that does appear to help with the clunking noise but nothing yet on the steering wheel clicking noise.

 

Love the new Duramax but coming from Tundra's I have already had more annoying issues in 8k miles than I ever did in my last two Tundra's over 10 years.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...