Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 12/16/2019 at 4:47 AM, Smoothbassman said:

Yes. 

 

I installed the OPT7 floor lighting kit. 

 

20190914_135621.thumb.jpg.f2728df30b07d2f8ee061a3a1a83e879.jpg

 20190914_192236.thumb.jpg.bac13e5c65c601f3dfa4d0fd911f27ba.jpg

 

The lights turn white when you open the door.

 

Easy 60 minute install. 

 

 

Do you remember what fuse your tapped into?   Do you have to wire the aux wire in addition or will just the fuse tap work?

 

I got into the fuse box in the passenger side and this is where I started to get confused.  The fuses I pulled were 3 prong and the fuse taps are 2 prong.  
 

Can you also show where you grounded.  Just looking for best option.  
 

Picture(s) would be greatly appreciated!!!

Edited by JAshworth03
Added detail.
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, JAshworth03 said:

Do you remember what fuse your tapped into?   Do you have to wire the aux wire in addition or will just the fuse tap work?

 

I got into the fuse box in the passenger side and this is where I started to get confused.  The fuses I pulled were 3 prong and the fuse taps are 2 prong.  
 

Can you also show where you grounded.  Just looking for best option.  
 

Picture(s) would be greatly appreciated!!!

Update.  I found a way to get power via a spade connector on the open post next to 27/28.   Hiding the wires was really easy.   The backseats there are two elastic bands holding down the seat covers on both the driver and passenger side.  Slipped the LED strip into each side and good to go, no zip ties needed.  
 

So now I have them powered and all the wires hidden, but I want to figure out how to tie them into the dome wire.  Also as a side note, no matter if I use the remote to turn them “off” or not, every time I power the truck on, they turn on.  It’s weird that the control box can remember what color they were last on, but can’t remember what power state they were last in. 


Where can I find that wire (picture if you can) and how did you tie into it?

You mentioned with your setup that now they come on white with the door opening.  Did you have to leave the lights in the “on” mode?  What happens after that?  Can you manually power them on/off with the remote after you close the door?  Did you stay tied off via spade to the same fuse and then run the dome aux cable and ground?

Edited by JAshworth03
Added more information.
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

What kit is everyone using? I ordered an opt7 aura pro kit and they then just cancelled my order with no explanation and they are showing as available. But now I’m not really interested in dealing with them. I want a hard wire kit, not use cig lighter.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted (edited)
On 1/5/2020 at 4:17 PM, mandrewbot3k said:

What kit is everyone using? I ordered an opt7 aura pro kit and they then just cancelled my order with no explanation and they are showing as available. But now I’m not really interested in dealing with them. I want a hard wire kit, not use cig lighter.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I put in the OPT7 Aura Pro x6 with door option.

 

Just a note, for the door option to work, the lights must be switched ON in the app.  It just changes the color to white upon entry. 

 

I expected the lights to turn off after some time, but they stay on, until turned off manually with the app.

 

I used a free blade on the driver's side fuse block, wired in a fuse holder, and soldered it to the direct wire cord included in the kit.  I couldn't use the delivered fuse holders with the 3 prong fuses Chevy is putting in these trucks.

 

Easy to run the wires in the wire tray under the door sills.

 

Door option below...

IMG_20200106_185941-01-01.png

IMG_20200106_185934-01-01.png

Edited by Fernandw
Pics added...
  • Like 1
Posted

Wrapped all the wires with a zip tie and stored withing the two kick panels.  Zip tied the control on the driver's side to the holes in the plastic cowling, used a breadboard kit male to stick into the grey wire on the bcm on the first plug near the driver, pin 23, to add the light option.

 

After turning the lights on...

 

IMG_20200106_185820-01-01.png

IMG_20200106_185848-01-01.png

  • Like 1
Posted

Just installed mine this weekend too, pretty happy with it!  Wired it into the aux switches and changed the fuse location so they come on with ignition. Have to tap into the bcm yet to get the lights to come on with door open. Now I have to keep my floor mats clean! 

45E98606-6F83-4F1F-B603-05B81ED972C3.jpeg

  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 12/16/2019 at 10:33 PM, mandrewbot3k said:

 


From what I understand you add full switched power to the main controller with an add a fuse and then use a second one for the control circuit which will act like the dome lights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Could you explain more how you got the lights to come on with the door? I had to order separately the correct 3 prong fuse adapter plug and play, cause that’s what Chevy did with the 2020 silverado, then I spliced it to the Aura lights connected that I already installed. From there I plugged it in on the passenger side fuse box in location F10. I’m getting power, it works on the app no problem, but I can’t figure out how to sync it with the dome lights for when the door opens. Can someone people help!!?? This is driving me nuts. 

Posted (edited)
On 11/17/2020 at 2:13 PM, RayHan96 said:

Could you explain more how you got the lights to come on with the door? I had to order separately the correct 3 prong fuse adapter plug and play, cause that’s what Chevy did with the 2020 silverado, then I spliced it to the Aura lights connected that I already installed. From there I plugged it in on the passenger side fuse box in location F10. I’m getting power, it works on the app no problem, but I can’t figure out how to sync it with the dome lights for when the door opens. Can someone people help!!?? This is driving me nuts. 

On the BCM, connector X1, pin 23, grey wire. this wire looks like its a command wire to the overhead console and the rear map lights (if you have them) which tells the controllers in those components to turn on the lights when the door opens. the question I have is, since it doesn't look like this wire drives any lights in the truck directly, how much current can it handle? looks like some have connected a few lights to it without issues. I may add a bunch more so I'm planning to run a relay from that signal. but anyway, that's the wire you want for your turn on, it should get 12V whenever the dome lights are on...door open, remote unlock etc. good luck! be sure to post results here.

Edited by kodiakdenali
typo
  • Like 1
Posted

I added LED Rock Lights to the upper console. Super easy, almost too bright, and they come on when you open door or push button to turn on map lights.

Drill holes

image.png.d24d47f4c52dddeffa7d7f6f3749ba6a.png

 

Let there be light

image.png.f43b9b886f3b2f6a13a35da6aefc439d.png

 

 

 

Posted
On 12/18/2019 at 1:29 PM, econometrics said:

Yeah, my wife was trying to do her makeup in the truck on the way to a dinner the other night. It was dark outside, so she turned on the front interior lights (since GM cheaply removed the vanity lights)... they barely helped at all. She had to use her iPhone flashlight eventually. 

 

It was pretty frustrating. With all the cheap, LED lighting tech these days, they should have made the interior lighting BETTER, not worse. 

That's only lower models, and one reason I didn't purchase the RST I test drove.  For $1,000 more (w rebates they were the same price) my SLT had so many more included features, one being lighted vanity mirrors.

 

But, although I agree the light sucks in them, it's just ever so slightly better than my 2015.  the 2015 had no lens on the map lights, just a directional LED.  At least the lens on the T1s spread the light a tiny bit more.

 

And since I'm on a rant, WTF GM, no glove box light?  I'm on my 3rd GMC since 2013 and none have had a lighted glove box.

 

Planning on doing front and rear footwell lights in the spring.  For those that installed some, where did you tap in for them to come on with the dome light?

Posted
17 hours ago, kodiakdenali said:

On the BCM, connector X1, pin 23, grey wire. this wire looks like its a command wire to the overhead console and the rear map lights (if you have them) which tells the controllers in those components to turn on the lights when the door opens. the question I have is, since it doesn't look like this wire drives any lights in the truck directly, how much current can it handle? looks like some have connected a few 9W lights to it without issues. I may add a bunch more so I'm planning to run a relay from that signal. but anyway, that's the wire you want for your turn on, it should get 12V whenever the dome lights are on...door open, remove unlock etc. good luck! be sure to post results here.

If you're planning on doing more lights I would run a simple relay.  Power the relay from a separate source, maybe a blank spot in the fuse panel, and then use the connection to Pin 23 as your switch power.  That way there is very little draw on Pin 23, and you can power whatever you'd like without worries.

  • Like 2
Posted
3 minutes ago, TA^Guy said:

If you're planning on doing more lights I would run a simple relay.  Power the relay from a separate source, maybe a blank spot in the fuse panel, and then use the connection to Pin 23 as your switch power.  That way there is very little draw on Pin 23, and you can power whatever you'd like without worries.

Precisely what I intend to do.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Arboc said:

I added LED Rock Lights to the upper console. Super easy, almost too bright, and they come on when you open door or push button to turn on map lights.

Drill holes

image.png.d24d47f4c52dddeffa7d7f6f3749ba6a.png

 

Let there be light

image.png.f43b9b886f3b2f6a13a35da6aefc439d.png

 

 

 

something like this is definitely on my list as well, I hope to use a flush mount light though but I've got the moonroof/sliding rear window on mine. I hope that when I look at the console with the extra controls it looks possible to do this, if not I will have to use a surface mounted pod as a plan B, something similar to the rock lights you used. on mine I am eyeing the space just aft of the factory map lights, depending on what's on the other side of the console of course.

how  much current do your lights draw?

did you power them directly from the grey dome lights turn on wire in the harness or did you use that to trigger a relay and use the B+ signal or your own power source to run them?

I want to do a at least a pair of 9W LED "bolt" lights here, and another pair in similar fashion on on the rear map lights unit.

 

I kind of like how, with the factory dome lights, when you have the door open they shine light out through the open door and illuminate the ground outside. that's pretty cool, but the unfortunately lack of light on the inside of the truck just has to be fixed.

Posted

I will likely have to do this in a few posts due to pictures, but here you go!

 

the youtube video posted is a good description of how to get the overhead console down. just be careful with it.

then step 1, verify that you can buy replacements for this part if everything goes horribly wrong! its about $160 on GMPartsDirect.

 

20201118 172539 172539_v1.jpg

Posted

on the back there are several silver screws, once removed you can take off the black plastic part on the back of the console, revealing the circuit board within.

20201118 173044 173044_v1.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...