Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I just bought a new 2019 lt and I’m looking to sell the storage jump seat and swap for a center console and get part numbers for the console, any help is appreciated!

Posted
Well I just bought a new 2019 lt and I’m looking to sell the storage jump seat and swap for a center console and get part numbers for the console, any help is appreciated!
You may want to call your dealer to see if there is one complete part number for full center consoles.

I am interested in buying a jump seat with storage as I am sure many other custom truck owners are.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

There was another thread on here a couple of weeks ago that I believe had all of the part numbers in it. 

 

I just bought a storage jump seat from Schram Auto Parts. They take new trucks and basically part them out. You may give them a call and see if they have a console. I got the jump seat or a fraction of the cost of a new one and it was from a truck that had 13 miles on it when they disassembled it.

Posted

Go to car-part and look from salvaged Silverado and Sierra’s for example found one in California for 300

F3BE2FDD-A80F-4B13-AD34-EA5EB45EF405.jpeg

Posted (edited)

I just purchased one from a LTZ insurance test crash truck,complete floor console with all brackets/nuts/bolts/wire harness for $575 shipped.A new one has to be way north of that.I don't remember what site I used but you enter what your'e looking for and when it goes in a data base they call you,he sent me about 20 pics and it looked like new.I'll have a jump seat with storage in black for sale shortly.

Edited by flat350
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just bought a 2020 Silverado  wt reg cab and I'm looking to do the same thing replace the center console coffee cup holder for one w/storage. any help w/part numbers and company to order from would be a great help to me.

  • 4 months later...
Posted


CONSOLE/BLACK -84505596
BOLT M4.2X1.41X20,11.4 - 11570498 (will need 2)
BOLT M6X1X22 - 11609982 (will need 2)
audio port cover - 84525394
BRACKET BOLT M6X1X22 - 11609982 (will need 2)
PUSH IN NUT for 11.2X9.2 hole - 11610157 (will need 2)
HARNESS - 84482759, 84482761, 84482762, 84482764, 84482760, 84848130, 84848129, 84848126, 84848131, 84848128. I'm not entirely sure which one you will need, they all include/exclude certain features.
REAR BRACKET: 84505561
BOLT M12X1.75X38 - 11549052 (need 4 or ?
LEFT BLACK PANEL - 84505569
RIGHT BLACK PANEL - 84505566
BOLT HOLE COVER - 84095725
BOLT M4.2X1.41X20, 11.4 - 11570498 (only need 1, this goes under the bolt hole cover)
NUT TIE BAR M4.2X1.41 PUSH IN NUT - 11570654 (not sure how many you need, just says as-required)
MID BRACKET - 84505564
BOLT HOLE COVERS #2 RIGHT - 84048434
BOLT HOLE COVERS #2 LEFT - 84164800
WIRING HARNESS EXTENSION - 84376073

Posted
10 hours ago, THDavis said:

Same here. Want to swap out my 2020 Silverado console 

Go to car-part...I just got one for 500 plus 65 shipping ....The console is brand new the one i got

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 8/6/2020 at 11:03 PM, Davef0x said:


CONSOLE/BLACK -84505596
BOLT M4.2X1.41X20,11.4 - 11570498 (will need 2)
BOLT M6X1X22 - 11609982 (will need 2)
audio port cover - 84525394
BRACKET BOLT M6X1X22 - 11609982 (will need 2)
PUSH IN NUT for 11.2X9.2 hole - 11610157 (will need 2)
HARNESS - 84482759, 84482761, 84482762, 84482764, 84482760, 84848130, 84848129, 84848126, 84848131, 84848128. I'm not entirely sure which one you will need, they all include/exclude certain features.
REAR BRACKET: 84505561
BOLT M12X1.75X38 - 11549052 (need 4 or ?
LEFT BLACK PANEL - 84505569
RIGHT BLACK PANEL - 84505566
BOLT HOLE COVER - 84095725
BOLT M4.2X1.41X20, 11.4 - 11570498 (only need 1, this goes under the bolt hole cover)
NUT TIE BAR M4.2X1.41 PUSH IN NUT - 11570654 (not sure how many you need, just says as-required)
MID BRACKET - 84505564
BOLT HOLE COVERS #2 RIGHT - 84048434
BOLT HOLE COVERS #2 LEFT - 84164800
WIRING HARNESS EXTENSION - 84376073

 

Does anyone have a complete list with the armrest?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...