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You have 37k to buy a new truck, what do you buy?


ero2

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8 hours ago, ducklawyer said:

Can get LT crew 4x4 in my area for 35500-37500. Whatever you do, make sure you shop rebates and not just your local dealer saying he’ll give you $6k off... the deals are out there.


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yes they are....my 2019 was $35,600 and change

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  • 1 month later...

A bit of backstory to make the whole post make a bit more sense.  My last 2 trucks have been F150s, first one was bought new, but stripped down (XL) in 2015.  Drove it with my family (wife and 2 7 year olds) to Florida, and at 8k miles, halfway there, lost AC, Ford covered it of course, but 16 hrs in summer with no AC was rough.  Traded it after I realized I wanted XLT, FX4, etc.  Grabbed a slightly used 2016 (20k miles) XLT Supercrew.  I realized after buying it the painted bumper had rock chips that had already started to rust through which they wouldn't cover, so had the bumper painted.  The door handles have had 4 recalls now, and resulted in me driving 30 miles each way having to hold my door shut as the latch, in cold temperatures would not catch. On our next trip the turn signal stalk went out leaving the wipers on, on a dry windshield for about 15 hrs.  (Couldn't pull fuse since it rains so much in that part of the country).  Now just a month ago, still under 47k miles and the rear defroster went out, and had to have the whole rear window replaced.  Today, after not driving it for 2 weeks (but did start it every 2-3 days), I got the "wrench" icon, not a CEL, but a drivetrain issue generally after driving it 12 miles.  It's the pump on the transmission that keeps fluid moving during the auto start stop.  Drive train warranty is covering it, but I am outside of bumper to bumper now.  

 

Would you guys trust this truck to drive your family on a 10+ hour vacation each year, and to ensure daily you get where you need to go (we are still paying on it, if that makes any difference)?  Or would it legitimately be a concern for you being out of the bumper to bumper, and having had these issues prior to it expiring?

 

Thanks for all the insight so far!!  Really appreciate it!

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If reliability is the main goal, you should already know to buy a Tundra. But I would also still rate a new GM pickup more trustworthy than your current Ford, especially as the first year bugs continue to be ironed out. 

 

Whichever truck you decide on, all of the full size pickups hold their value very well. So if you are able to work a really great deal on one, and then build some equity...you can trade every three years and always be under warranty without losing your hat. Probably not a bad idea as these trucks get more and more complex. The days of driving the wheels off them are over for me.

Edited by OnTheReel
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I hear ya on the issues with your truck.  We’ve got a 5.0 Coyote F150 extended cab w/8’ box 4 x 4 at work.  Nothing special, just a road patrol truck for local  township.   We do put a lot of mileage on these trucks but, pretty sad to see the poor build quality and reliability.... can’t keep oil in the thing, trans 10sp is a night mare. The ticking at idle sounds like a stuck lifter.   Just really sad as I always said if I ever get a Ford it’ll be a 5.0 litre motor nothing else.  I wouldn’t even touch an Ecoboost ...just my .02 

 

Only drove a new 2019 Silverado 1500 when my 2018 Sierra Denali was in for tonneau cover and mud flap installation.  It was a lower end model, still nice truck but way too much for what you’re getting.   

Edited by Joe98
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my 2 neigbors have eco boost and had a lot issues with them....I just don't like Ford anyways, never have....kinda weird actually, idk why that is but even when I see a nice one I think no friggen way would I get one......very strange

 

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So...if I do go with a Chevrolet/GM, I know to avoid:

 

The opening rear window of death

Which transmission do I avoid, the 10 sp?

Avoid the 4cyl and go V8 for sure?

 

What else do I stay away from to get my best bet on a "solid" truck?  Tundra's are good, but expensive, out dated (have to get a 2020 to even get CarPlay) and I drive so much, the 16 or less MPG is kind of a deal breaker as well.

 

Thanks again for the help all!

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9 minutes ago, ero2 said:

So...if I do go with a Chevrolet/GM, I know to avoid:

 

The opening rear window of death

Which transmission do I avoid, the 10 sp?

Avoid the 4cyl and go V8 for sure?

 

What else do I stay away from to get my best bet on a "solid" truck?  Tundra's are good, but expensive, out dated (have to get a 2020 to even get CarPlay) and I drive so much, the 16 or less MPG is kind of a deal breaker as well.

 

Thanks again for the help all!

8 speed is the one that has the bad reputation. Whether or not it’s deserved, depends who you ask.

 

Complaints with the 10 speed are few and far between. The 6.2/ 10 speed is by far the best powertrain I’ve ever driven in any vehicle, let alone a pickup. But it is the least efficient of the GM offerings and prefers to drink premium.

 

Don’t write off the Duramax or 2.7 if MPG is a concern, just know that the latter can only be had with the 8 speed, and both engines are brand new designs.
 

And yes, try to avoid the sliding window of death...but you do have to get creative to get the 10 speed but not the slider:

 

6.2 custom TB
6.2 RST

3.0 diesel in LT, RST

5.3 or 6.2 in LT TB 


All can be configured to have the 10 speed but without sliding rear window. 

 

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Sorry if this was covered previously but any reason you're only looking at Silverados and not Sierras? I'd recommend an SLE with the 5.3, 10 speed and Convenience Package if you want a front bench seat or an Elevation with the 5.3, 10 speed and Convenience Package with bucket seats if you want less chrome and a centre console. Admittedly, the Elevation is a bit pricey but it should be easier to find discounts on it than on a TB and would allow you to get a 10 speed without going to a 6.2 (if you're focused on cost primarily).

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Found a GMC SLE and then...if I REALLY want to jump 2k more, an elevation, both with 5.3 and 10 speed.  As of now, unless I got another ford, I’m leaning towards one of these 2.

 

I didn’t notice before my wife asked, but they look a little low on crash test ratings from the passenger side, and whoa did Toyota perform bad on those!

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I looked at Tundra’s again, and the longevity and reliability are really good, but my wife brought up (again) that its lowest on crash test ratings and we have 2 small children...I’m not sure how much to really weight crash test ratings, or if all vehicles are pretty darn safe these days?  (Haven’t ever really looked at ratings until now)

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