Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello members.

This is my first posting. I have a 2016 crew cab Silverado. I bought it new and it now has 20000 miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dub 22’s with a 285/45/22 tire that I ride on during the summer months here in Michigan. I want to upgrade to a larger summer wheel. Possibly a 26” with a 305/30/26 tire. 

 I know big wheels aren’t popular with some people but, I like the look. My choice. I’m not the biggest  fan of lowered or lifted trucks, but I’ve seen some nice one’s and if you like it I’m happy for you. It’s your money, your choice. 

 My question is how is the overall ride quality riding on 26’s? I’m thinking it will be sport car firm. And what problems if any have you experienced with 26 inch wheels as far as blowouts, dents, or suspension problems? I would greatly appreciate any info. The more detailed the better. Thank you.

Edited by 2Silverados
Posted

The ride will suffer with that small of a sidewall not to mention that a 305/35/26 is 34.4 inches tall so you will need at least a leveling kit to clear. If it were mine I wouldn’t go bigger than a 22 imo to keep a decent ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
20 minutes ago, 14 Silvy said:

The ride will suffer with that small of a sidewall not to mention that a 305/35/26 is 34.4 inches tall so you will need at least a leveling kit to clear. If it were mine I wouldn’t go bigger than a 22 imo to keep a decent ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback. As far as tire I meant to say 305/30/26. I’ve got to see if I can correct that in my post. 

Posted

I live in Minnesota and the roads aren't the best, I hear Michigan is worse. Any decent pothole is likely to bend/dent a rim. It was rare to see a dent 22in rim in the last shop I was in but 24's and 26's were a lot more common.

Posted
2 hours ago, 2Silverados said:

Hello members.

This is my first posting. I have a 2016 crew cab Silverado. I bought it new and it now has 20000 miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dub 22’s with a 285/45/22 tire that I ride on during the summer months here in Michigan. I want to upgrade to a larger summer wheel. Possibly a 26” with a 305/30/26 tire. 

 I know big wheels aren’t popular with some people but, I like the look. My choice. I’m not the biggest  fan of lowered or lifted trucks, but I’ve seen some nice one’s and if you like it I’m happy for you. It’s your money, your choice. 

 My question is how is the overall ride quality riding on 26’s? I’m thinking it will be sport car firm. And what problems if any have you experienced with 26 inch wheels as far as blowouts, dents, or suspension problems? I would greatly appreciate any info. The more detailed the better. Thank you.

My question is how is the overall ride quality riding on 26’s? Not good...

 

And what problems if any have you experienced with 26 inch wheels as far as blowouts, dents, or suspension problems? All of that. Much heavier than smaller wheels, easier to dent and cause a blow out. Look at 22's and how often you seen an issue with those (not all the time but often enough) so multiply that by a much larger percentile. 

 

The more detailed the better. How much more detail so you want? Go big, ride suffers, suspension wear occurs and possible rim/tire failures. Not much more detail can be said. 

 

Good luck

 

Tyler

Posted (edited)

My curiosity got the better of me as I was trying to visualize what 26 inch rims would look like so did a quick google search. This one appears to be lowered, but honestly, it looks way better than I thought it would. Is this the look your going for? Those are some thin sidewall tires those are for sure

 

 

 

 

 

image.png.849e47213d506f3f92048c3ea76cd188.png

Edited by reardiff
  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, reardiff said:

My curiosity got the better of me as I was trying to visualize what 26 inch rims would look like so did a quick google search. This one appears to be lowered, but honestly, it looks way better than I thought it would. Is this the look your going for? Those are some thin sidewall tires those are for sure

 

 

 

 

 

image.png.849e47213d506f3f92048c3ea76cd188.png

I truly love the look, and I would keep the factory ride hight and GM slant. There are a few people around town riding 26’s on full size trucks. 305/30/26’s would only give me 3.6 inch’s of sidewall. No rubbing during turns. I was wondering how the people riding big rims and low profiles were pulling it off, that’s why I created this post. I really want to do it but may have to settle for 24’s.

Posted (edited)

Your ride will completely depend on your tires my friend. Small sidewall rougher ride bigger sidewall a little softer.. I have 37x14.5r26 but I’m definitely lifted. Mine are not on yet because I’m powder coating but a friend has the exact same setup and his rides as expected. As far a issues if you’re keeping close to a stock offset like the picture above you shouldn’t really have any problems at all as far as your suspension goes. My 26s are 14 inches wide with an 8 inch lip so that’s going to be putting stress on all joints and bushings and slightly effect my turning radius but you shouldn’t have that issue. With the thinner tires you really just have to keep your eyes on the road to avoid damaging them. I had a bodydropped 2001 gmc on 24’s Billet Intros with 35 Series Perelli‘s and for all of that for a few years with no problems just because I made sure to avoid potholes and road damage.

Edited by CovetedStyle
Posted

where do you live? I had those electrical tape tires on a car for a short while, but the roads in my area did a number on them - no matter how careful I'd be. 2016 with only 20k doesn't sound like you put a ton of miles on it. 

Posted

I stay in Flint Mi. The roads aren’t that good. In the late 90’s I drove a Camaro with 205/50/15’s on it. That’s 4inchs of sidewall. I never blew a tire  but I managed to ding up the lips over the years. That camaro weighed 3400lbs. I’m sure my Crew Cab is around 5000lbs and will only have 3.6 inches of sidewall if I get the 26’s. I like the look and would be getting Pirelli tires to help with the ride and durability but I don’t think I could go to many summers without bending a rim. I’ve been trying to convince myself that I can dodge every pothole day and night?.  I really appreciate all of your input.

Posted
17 hours ago, CovetedStyle said:

Your ride will completely depend on your tires my friend. Small sidewall rougher ride bigger sidewall a little softer.. I have 37x14.5r26 but I’m definitely lifted. Mine are not on yet because I’m powder coating but a friend has the exact same setup and his rides as expected. As far a issues if you’re keeping close to a stock offset like the picture above you shouldn’t really have any problems at all as far as your suspension goes. My 26s are 14 inches wide with an 8 inch lip so that’s going to be putting stress on all joints and bushings and slightly effect my turning radius but you shouldn’t have that issue. With the thinner tires you really just have to keep your eyes on the road to avoid damaging them. I had a bodydropped 2001 gmc on 24’s Billet Intros with 35 Series Perelli‘s and for all of that for a few years with no problems just because I made sure to avoid potholes and road damage.

When driving my standard cab 2000 Silverado I drive it like a 20 year old truck that’s been through 20 body rusting salt filled Michigan winters. I don’t aim for the potholes but I don’t shed a tear when I hit one. In my garage kept  2016 it’s a different story. I drive it like I’m hauling a truck filled with grandmothers sipping tea. I try my best to avoid our road’s imperfections. But no driver is perfect and lucks not on my side even though I’d only ride my big rims for about 5 months a year. I’ve seen one truck in person with a setup that your going for and it looked really good. I like when we can achieve the look that we’re going for.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Yea you In wrong forum with people that like fat tires on small rims. I like big rims I don’t care about quality or what it does to my suspension as I repair cars for a living it’s the cost 💲 as they always say it cost to play so if you want to play you gotta pay the cost put your money where your mouth is .I’m putting 315/45/26 thicker side wall on my 2017 Ram not lifted  but not Mickey Thomsons I’m not a mudding lifted kind a guy I’m not spending 4K on clean chrome rims to get them dirty . X2 different people in the world when it comes to trucks Street look or hillbilly look don’t forget lifted trucks also kill your suspension so either way you go it will wear out your components.  I’m a slick smooth kinda man .so as I said before do what you like not what others like or think of your truck if you got deep pockets go for 26” or 28” big baller leave them 22” and under for the little guys .I use big rims in summer and them small wheels with fat tires for the salt and snow .I’ll update a picture of my Ram with no lift on 26” wheels 

Edited by Shooter
  • Confused 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...