Jump to content

Transmission cooler line

JRRIVERA34
 Share

Recommended Posts

JRRIVERA34 Enthusiast

JRRIVERA34

Posted
Posted (edited)

My lower line is leaking. I want to replace it myself but I can not find any write ups or youtube videos. Can anyone help me find some instructions to follow? It looks like I might have to remove the cars to gain access to remove the line from the transmission, it is a very tight area to work it. TIA

2006 1500 4x2 4l60 crew cab

Edited by JRRIVERA34
  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

CapitalTruck
CapitalTruck

Buy a few extra of those little clips because sometimes they go flying.

davester
davester

perhaps indicate what specific vehicle you have, including engine, transmission, and if it's 4wd

davester
davester

Must have changed from the GMT800s then.

Posted Images

CapitalTruck Senior Enthusiast

CapitalTruck

Posted
Posted

If its leaking at the flexible hose

splices I would recommend just cutting the flexible portion out and replacing with transmission cooler line and a couple of clamps.  I replaced the whole assembly on my previous 2wd, but on the 4wd it is just an absolute bear.  So, I used the method that I just described.

  • 4 weeks later...
txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, JRRIVERA34 said:

anyone>?

Plenty of Youtube videos out there, just search for them. takes about 15 seconds

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Yeah, it's straightforward, particularly since you have a 2wd.  If you are replacing the whole line, I would suggest replacing both, as the other is going to leak as well.

 

Some hints/tips

-get new clips for each end of the line, as GM recommends they be replaced whenever the line is disconnected. 

-put something over the ends of the lines while you are installing them (as in, while getting the lines routed properly), so you don't get anything in them

-make sure you get the lines fully inserted so the clip that you replaced snaps into place.  If you don't have the end lined up quite right with the fitting, you won't be able to do this.

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
On 1/22/2020 at 4:10 AM, JRRIVERA34 said:

My lower line is leaking. I want to replace it myself but I can not find any write ups or youtube videos. Can anyone help me find some instructions to follow? It looks like I might have to remove the cars to gain access to remove the line from the transmission, it is a very tight area to work it. TIA

2006 1500 4x2 4l60 crew cab

1.) Remove the front grille.

2.) Disconnect the auxiliary transmission fluid cooler lines from the auxiliary oil cooler. 

3.) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the radiator. 

4.) Raise and support the vehicle.

5.) Remove the engine protection shield. 

6.) Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.

7.) Remove the oil cooler lines from the vehicle.

JRRIVERA34 Enthusiast

JRRIVERA34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That doesn't sound correct. I'm a to remove the line going to the radiator with the grill on. The issue is remove the line from the transmission. Its very tight with the cats installed. I don't want to remove them if I dont need to. If I do have to remove the cats, are there gaskets that need to be replaced? 

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

There are crush metal o-rings (at least on my 3500) on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe junction that need to be replaced each time you disconnect them.

 

I didn't have to disconnect the exhaust to do my lines, I believe I did have my front diff out.  I did my oil lines and oil pan gasket at the same time, just to make a big mess once... 

JRRIVERA34 Enthusiast

JRRIVERA34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/20/2020 at 8:37 AM, txab said:

Plenty of Youtube videos out there, just search for them. takes about 15 seconds

None of them show how to remove the line from the transmission clearly.  

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted (edited)

Same type of connection as radiator. Slide the black plastic ring back, pull the clip, line pops out. Reverse to install

Edited by txab
  • 2 weeks later...
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

GM recommends you replace the clips every time they are removed, and you may want to buy one or two (or have available) of the plastic retaining covers, as they are also pretty easy to break trying to get them on.

 

They normally come out not too bad, but to get them in all the way, you need to make sure the line is pointed straight in, as there is very little clearance in the hole it goes into, so it jams up easily if you go in at an angle.  The ones into the transmission can be more annoying to do, as with the exhaust and various brackets installed, there isn't a lot of room for your arms to get in there and also be able to see what is going on.  And if you are doing this on the ground (as in, not using a lift), I would suggest just lifting the truck enough to get under it and so you can move around, so you don't have to extend your arms as much to reach to the ports on the transmission.

CapitalTruck Senior Enthusiast

CapitalTruck

Posted
Posted
On 3/2/2020 at 1:09 AM, davester said:

GM recommends you replace the clips every time they are removed, and you may want to buy one or two (or have available) of the plastic retaining covers, as they are also pretty easy to break trying to get them on.

 

They normally come out not too bad, but to get them in all the way, you need to make sure the line is pointed straight in, as there is very little clearance in the hole it goes into, so it jams up easily if you go in at an angle.  The ones into the transmission can be more annoying to do, as with the exhaust and various brackets installed, there isn't a lot of room for your arms to get in there and also be able to see what is going on.  And if you are doing this on the ground (as in, not using a lift), I would suggest just lifting the truck enough to get under it and so you can move around, so you don't have to extend your arms as much to reach to the ports on the transmission.

Yes, when I replaced the lines on my 04 I remember doing a ton of swearing trying to get those connectors back together.  Anywhere you arent able to get good leverage causes those connectors to be nightmares.  Again, I recommend just using a tubing cutter/dremel tool to cut out the crimped flexible lines and replace with rubber transmission cooler line (available any auto parts store) and a couple of clamps.  So far mine is leak free.  Just make sure you use hose labeled for transmission cooler use.

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
On 2/22/2020 at 8:13 AM, JRRIVERA34 said:

None of them show how to remove the line from the transmission clearly.  

Lisle Jiffy-Tite 22930.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...