Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bumping up this thread to see if the forum has found a solution to the excessive DEF consumption while towing.  I currently have a 2016 5.3L and am about to pull the trigger on a travel trailer that will likely be about 7500 lbs loaded (boondocking with full tanks).  3/4 ton trucks don't fit in my garage since the manufacturers are all designing them with "I'm gonna be a big rig when I grow up" in mind.  Strongly considering the updated 3.0 Diesel in the '22 for my next rig.  Or an F150 Powerboost.

 

I plan on towing annually from Arizona to the Midwest and back and don't want to be stopping to add DEF every 300 miles.

Posted
On 12/9/2020 at 8:36 AM, BJ Niceguy said:

OK, the gauge is crap. I have 2020 3.0 & have 21K on it (about 1/2 towing). Mine takes forever to work down to 1/2 full on the bars, then almost instantly drops to one bar & throws low alarm. I bought a OBI plug in thing and it reads the def remaining. On mine, when the def tank drops 1st bar, it is really at about 80% remaining, then drops about 10% for each bar till about 1/2 on gauge. On mine when gauge reads 1/2 I am between 45% & 52% (the lower the tank gets, the more the OBI bounces around, assume sloshing in tank). Anyway, when mine hits 42% to 45% it drops to 1 bar & throws low alarm. I can usually BARELY get a 2.5 gallon jug in it & other times if filling at truck stop might get 3 gallons in. I have been in situations where I could not just stop & add, so ran past the 1 low bar & towing it dropped to empty & kinda locks up teh lower part of gauge and starts count down to speed reduction. I have never added more than 3.8 gallons.

 

On Def usage. Mine does not use much when not towing. When towing, how hard I am driving makes huge difference on consumption (as it does with mileage). If towing 5K enclosed trailer at 60 on 2 lane road, the def usage is probably 1/2 of what it is running 75+ on freeway (big difference in mileage too). I have had a 2013 with 6.2, 2016 with 5.3 & now the 2020 with 3.0. For me the 3.0 is hands down the better towing truck.

 

My biggest bitches with truck are the Def gauge & having to push the stop button every time start truck so it does not shut off at lights when not towing

 

 

Found this while Googling about DEF consumption. We have a 2021 Silverado RST with the 3.0 and have been having similar experiences to what seems to be commonly described in this thread.

 

I tow a lot, and while towing, it goes from full to empty within 500-750 miles depending on the load. It's not proportionate to fuel consumption. 

 

Last night I ran out of DEF (according to the gauge) and got to the 500 mile countdown prior to reduced 65 MPH speed limit. I decided to drive 250 miles through that countdown, to ensure I was bone dry for DEF. 

 

Happened to stop at a gas station that had DEF at the pump, and at 3.8 gallons it was overflowing... so either the capacity is not the 5.2 gallons advertised, or there was still over a gallon of DEF left during that countdown. I would find that strange since it literally says that you are OUT of DEF, not just low... but perhaps just addition precaution?

 

I wondered why when I was at 1 bar and out, even trying to fit 1 x 2.5 gallon box of DEF in would result in overfilling. 

 

First diesel for us, so learning as we go. Have a diesel Tahoe on order too, wondering if I should switch to gasoline.

Posted
2 hours ago, PinBoss said:

 

 

 I decided to drive 250 miles through that countdown, to ensure I was bone dry for DEF. 

 

Happened to stop at a gas station that had DEF at the pump, and at 3.8 gallons it was overflowing... so either the capacity is not the 5.2 gallons advertised, or there was still over a gallon of DEF left during that countdown. I would find that strange since it literally says that you are OUT of DEF, not just low... but perhaps just addition precaution?

 

I wondered why when I was at 1 bar and out, even trying to fit 1 x 2.5 gallon box of DEF in would result in overfilling. 

 

First diesel for us, so learning as we go. Have a diesel Tahoe on order too, wondering if I should switch to gasoline.

3.0L duramax supplement says says 5.3 gallon capacity for the LM2 tank.

 

I topped mine up about 700 miles and have done 2 fills since.

5.52 gal and 5.75 gallons.

Second one was after it thought it was empty and was giving the speed limit warnings.

Second one overflowed, first did not. 

 

MPG's were 922 and 1438 over the 13,248 miles for the 2 fills.

 

Not sure it helps you, other than verifying it holds more than 3.8 gal.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I bought a 2021 3.0 Duramax a year ago, I found this post looking for other drivers with  high DEF consumption issues, to reply to your post, this engine is a real pleasure compared to the 5.3 gas, without a trailer, it average 29 mpg, I did as good as 43 mpg on level highway. It uses about a tank per 5000 miles. While pulling a trailer, it does about 17.5 miles per gallon, and uses a tank of DEF per 900-1000 miles. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...