Jump to content

2014 Silverado electrical nightmare

Johnbellaville

By Johnbellaville
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
Posted

Truck has 67000 miles stabilitrak lights brake lights abs I loose power steering truck will skip radio will cut out and truck will eventually throw a check engine light and loose overdrive and what seems to be first gear ...G218 has been done as we’ll as other side local shop put a bcm in at 526$ still have the same problems which seem to show more when it’s wet and cold any help is appreciated 

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jaychevy81
Jaychevy81

I have read on FB there is a ground wire under the drivers A pillar that when the truck was built it’s half on the cab insulation and half on the truck. If you pull the A pillar towards the dash spea

carnau
carnau

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to

carnau
carnau

You can have issues with batter cables. We have had alot of issues with them from 2007 - 2013. The voltage drop within the cable (resistance) gets above 1volt. so when you're cranking, driving, ect yo

Posted Images

BigBadSierra Senior Enthusiast

BigBadSierra

Posted
Posted

Check all of the grounds..  mainly the battery ground. This is a common issue with these trucks after a few years.

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

I have read on FB there is a ground wire under the drivers A pillar that when the truck was built it’s half on the cab insulation and half on the truck. If you pull the A pillar towards the dash speaker you can see it. Just a thought


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, BigBadSierra said:

Check all of the grounds..  mainly the battery ground. This is a common issue with these trucks after a few years.

Thanks will do

Ozer Enthusiast

Ozer

Posted
Posted

The negative battery cable is a culprit to many grounding issues w/o any signs of it going bad.

Run a second ground wire from Negative terminal across the firewall to the ground bolt next to the brake booster. About $15 fix from parts store.

This may fix some issues, if not you are at least covered if and when the original ground cable acts up. This fixed all my ground issues.

I also heard the driver side fuse block tends to corrode on the underside, you may want to check that. I think it can be removed, i never tried.

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

I had the negative battery issue with my K2 2500. Had the same symptoms as you more or less, told me two week wait to get it looked at. I said to them its not really safe to drive when your headlights cut out at night. So I took it into my shop and the neg cable was loose on battery and ground was a bit loose on frame so I put some grease on it and tightened it up. Was ok after that. Good luck. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All grounds checked and cleaned took to dealer and they replaced positive and negative cables 450$ still having the same issue 1000$ this month no luck 

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Johnbellaville said:

All grounds checked and cleaned took to dealer and they replaced positive and negative cables 450$ still having the same issue 1000$ this month no luck 

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to clear all the codes please and then when it happens again ask them if they will hook up GDS2 and give you a report on all the codes that set after it came on. Come back here and post ALL (doesn't matter how trivial you think they are) of the codes. I am the Electrical specialist at the dealership here. Been that for the last 20 years. This is what I do. Lol

  • Like 1
Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, carnau said:

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to clear all the codes please and then when it happens again ask them if they will hook up GDS2 and give you a report on all the codes that set after it came on. Come back here and post ALL (doesn't matter how trivial you think they are) of the codes. I am the Electrical specialist at the dealership here. Been that for the last 20 years. This is what I do. Lol

They still have it and if I remember right they said it was loosing communication to just about everything  but I will ask thanks wish you were in ga

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
On 2/28/2020 at 12:39 PM, BlaineBug said:

I'm confused, what's wrong with the original battery cables?  You don't see these battery cable issues on vehicles that are 40 years old, seriously.

You can have issues with batter cables. We have had alot of issues with them from 2007 - 2013. The voltage drop within the cable (resistance) gets above 1volt. so when you're cranking, driving, ect you already have 1volt of drop. So if you battery ever drops to 11volts, in actuality you only have 10.

 

Can be a common issue, but there are ways you check without throwing parts on vehicles.

  • Like 1
BlaineBug Enthusiast

BlaineBug

Posted
Posted

I understand that, normally I've seen issues with loose terminals on the battery posts or a loose connection between terminal clamp and cable.  What are other causes of high resistance in wiring besides corrosion beneath the insulation or a break in the wire that degrades a significant amount of the copper strands?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...