Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Recently bought 2019 Silverado lt trailboss with 5.3 and 8spd tranny

 

What's the normal operating temp for 8speed transmission? Not towing but just driving in the city/hwy. I'm getting between 70-85 deg Celsius or 158-185 deg f.

 

Also noticed temp went really high while driving in the moderately deep snow on the back road in 4hi. 140deg Celsius! Which I think is 290f.

 

Are these temps normal? 

 

Coming off dodge  with 5spd tranny it was running at 50 for normal use and Max of 80deg Celsius these high temps are new to me, unsure if it's even normal?

 

Truck only has 1300km 

IMG_20200222_092140.jpg

Edited by Giantpeaches
Posted

That sounds high. At 285F you are close to burning the fluid although, the gauge/sensor may be inaccurate, I would get it back to the dealer.

Posted

That doesn't sound right.  If it truly was that high something is wrong.  I would think it would have thrown a code.  How long of a drive in the deep snow?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

That doesn't sound right.  If it truly was that high something is wrong.  I would think it would have thrown a code.  How long of a drive in the deep snow?

Yeah.. I figured it would throw a code but it was definitely 145deg C. I should've taken some pictures at the time but didn't think to.

 

I'd say about 1-2km/ 1.2 miles? till I decided to turn around and go back.

 

not sure if tech can plug in obd reader and pull some historical data or anything.. 

 

Meant to drop it off tomorrow to have couple of things looked at.

 

 

Edited by Giantpeaches
Posted

At 290f you cooked all your fluid and probably want  a new trans. Probably a sensor issue. let it sit all night and check the temp in the morning, it should be within 10 degrees of the outside temp.(actual temp not the trucks outside temp).

Posted

What does the fluid look like?  At that temp like posted above I would think it would have effected the color and no longer be a nice pink color.

Posted
1 hour ago, BlancoSilverado said:

At 290f you cooked all your fluid and probably want  a new trans. Probably a sensor issue. let it sit all night and check the temp in the morning, it should be within 10 degrees of the outside temp.(actual temp not the trucks outside temp).

since then it's been running normally. I don't exactly know what the normal temperature for city/hwy driving is for these trucks and tranny but I find it runs between 140-180F

 

Posted
27 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

What does the fluid look like?  At that temp like posted above I would think it would have effected the color and no longer be a nice pink color.

Is there way to check fluid color on these 8 spd transmission? I just know there's no dipstick to check the level or anything

Posted
1 minute ago, Giantpeaches said:

Is there way to check fluid color on these 8 spd transmission? I just know there's no dipstick to check the level or anything

There is an inspection port so to speak on the side basically where a dipstick tube would go.  There is a plug over it.  Could pull the plug to check.

Posted

Just heard back from the dealer and they couldn't pull any codes or parameters all seem normal and he assured me 140-180 is normal operating temperature.. I asked in Celsius or Fahrenheit? and he said celsius.. seems wrong.... 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

To check trans temp, scroll through drivers info steering wheel, there is one blank screen before the trans temp screen. My truck has a trans oil cooler, I think, and you would think the trans temp would be cooler than 180 degrees F, with an ambient temperature of 40-50 degrees F, and an unloaded truck.

Posted

I definitely have a transmission oil cooler but it doesn't seem to change my temps. I don't think anything is going to keep them lower considering they have a thermostat that keeps them pretty warm. I could be wrong though lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It's a '21 and was a CPO with extended protection when purchased, so hopefully it will be covered.   I supposedly have all of it's service record history and nothing noted other than routine fluid changes, tire rotations, and the windshield washer nozzles replaced once. 
    • I would argue that GMPartsDirect has that info wrong.    The service manual for R+R the lower arm and for adjusting camber/caster, none of the steps say to discard and replace the nut or the bolt.    The only part that gets discarded is the plastic cam adjustment retainer that is in the eccentric from the factory.     The LCA nut torque spec is:  First Pass: 180 Y (133 lb ft) Final Pass: 90 –105 Degrees   That is WELL past 130ft.lbs per the TSB that you reference that does not apply to this scenario.     As for your clunk.  I'd say it needs to be diagnosed thoroughly.  Assuming the LCA hardware is tight, you could have a problem with the UCA, sway bar end links, etc.      
    • The filtering to wear relationship goes like this:      'Relative Engine Life "Factor" new divided by the factor old. So 8/3= 2.67. That result is the multiplier thus if a motor had an effective life of 100K using a filter with a 45 micron rating at a Beta ratio of 75 then a filter with a micron rating of 10 at a Beta of 75 would improve expected engine life to 267,000 miles.    Wear metals are an indirect indicator. Less is better and the motor lives longer but there isn't a multiplier like there is for filtration so well documented. Most of that has to do with the sensitivity of the wear metals tests themselves. They read a 'slice' of the spectrum but not the absolute values for the entire spectrum. So a general indicator that is used WITH the results of other tests. Two others considered in this post. Trending is very important.    There is also the influence of corrosive wear which may be seen in the wear metals but separate from load based or viscosity mitigated indication. It's a small graph but the gray line is wear vs the TBN/TAN crossover. Not as useful as it used to be as there are now new chemistries for acid remediation that don't show up in standard UAO testing. They will catch up or be found liars. Only two possible outcomes, eh?             
    • One thing that comes up over and over is that the torque converters are the weak link. Many of the failed transmissions have the same thing in common. The torque converter grenades and then metal torque converter shards end up destroying the transmission. One of the best things you can do is if your transmission is still fully functional, change out to one of the aftermarket billet torque converters. There are several good choices mentioned in different threads here to make your choice. After that, then you can decide about trans tuning. My trans failed at around 95,000 miles. It got replaced under the GM protection plan. The remanufactured trans comes with a 100,000 mile /3 year warranty. I still have just under 1 year left. So far, so good. As long as it's still working good next year, an aftermarket torque converter is going to get installed early spring. If the trans and OEM torque converter fail by then, I will get it replaced under warranty and immediately have an aftermarket torque converter installed. A warranty replacement trans of a replacement trans will no longer have the warranty so I will bulletproof it from the get go.
    • You got'a be cooking right now. Just looked at the weather map. Yuck!    We are right back to $4 today.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...