Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was looking at the engine in my 2020 GMC this past weekend and noticed that the front edge, at the center of the hood, has a removable piece.

I looked at it more and the area just behind it has a chamber, that is sort of slotted on the bottom to allow air to enter from the grill.

The inlet for the air filter is way off to the right.

It almost reminds me of my 75 Trans Am, that had a plate on the back of the shaker hood that could be removed and that would increased airflow to the carb and the Q jet low frequency tone noise could exit.

I am going to take mine off of the GMC and see if it sounds better or anything -anyone already done this?  

GMC Hood1.jpg

GMC Hood2.jpg

GMC Hood3.jpg

GMC Hood4.jpg

Posted

If there’s cutouts behind that I would imagine that it helps block airflow and push to the driver’s side where the forced air is pushed to the intake, so taking it off may negatively affect it and the cutouts are just going into the hood and not intake anyways.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I’m gonna guess it does nothing unless there out cutouts to let the air through. Looks like air has no place to go once it enters. Unless it’s supposed to do a 180 and flow out the front (holes that aren’t covered)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

Nothing more than a composite design to reinforce a thin aluminum hood. Wouldn't make much of deflecting a cold airflow supply as an aluminum heat sink sucking up heat from the engine and hot Summer Sun.

Posted (edited)

So the way it works out is that when you remove this piece, it leaves it totally open where it was plugged by the plastic filler -it is not a diverter etc., it just blocks this space, making it look like an opening.

When removed, air can enter that gap and get into the section just behind it with the slots in the bottom.

The rear of this space has the second seal to the hood, so noting gets to the under hood area behind it.

It looks like the slots in the bottom of this space, and some of the hole on the leading edge of the hood, are the normal path for the air flow -eventually finding the opening way up and over to the right DS.

With this gap open, the air would be Rammed into this chamber and get to the filter inlet faster?

And since the filter inlet is so far to the right DS, rain or snow wouldn't be entering.

Not saying it would make a big difference, but it is interesting that it is designed this way.

If you have a 2019 or 2010 GMC take a look and see if this makes sense.

Edited by Glava2876
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I didn't read through the string so apologize up front if already answered. I think the ram air is only functional in the diesel model. The diesel needs the extra air but the gas model doesn't. I think there is a special designed chamber in the diesel intake to separate the rain water and debris from entering the engine. Removing the blocked vent on a gas engine is likely to just dump rain and snow on your engine when driving in inclement weather.  

 

As a side note, I hate the hood design on the GMC 2500. I wish they would remove the pretend scoop and make the hood lower. It would give better visibility. I think this poor visibility will be a big problem when snow plowing. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 258 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...