Jump to content

Problems w Gamboa mod for off road light switch

Crankycolnago
 Share

Recommended Posts

Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
Posted

I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 

 

VanguardK2 Enthusiast

VanguardK2

Posted
Posted
I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 
 
If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, VanguardK2 said:

If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

Yea , not bashing him just saying that im using his harness, sent him a message earlier today so well see when he replies, maube he can walk me thru it. 

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

This would have been better handled by a PM
Don't sweat it he will get you through this.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Edited by TinkeringFox
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, pgamboa said:

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

Tinkering Fox provided some great info on the different types of light bar harnesses and how they are configured.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

 

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

I have a dash icon light, the switch itself does not illuminate , I tested the yellow wire that goes to the engine bay and it has no power . So then I need to add a wire to the relay prong labeled 87a ? 
 

currently have as follows 

 

30 - 12 v battery power w fuse 

85 - yellow trigger wire

86 - ground for relay and light 

87 - power to light 

 

i ran a power wire from battery to light to test its ground and it works .

 

so it seems that the problem is the switch trigger wire.

 

thanks for the help 

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted

Yes, it seems that the yellow wire is the issue. You should double check the connection at the BCM to be sure that everything is correct. Correct cavity, proper depth, good (tight) connection.

  • 1 year later...
JohnnyLane Enthusiast

JohnnyLane

Posted
Posted
On 4/17/2020 at 11:40 PM, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Just wanted to follow up with you TinkeringFox regarding how you went about this new mod as i am looking to do the same on my '18. I realize there are a few feasible ways of achieving this but appreciate your insight. Was this achieved at the bcm/switch or by simple hardwiring w/ diode?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I understand. It is disturbing to think a manufacture asks so much and gives so little in engineering support. This is not a GM issues, this is a greed issue and one the ALL practice.    My intent was not to remove the wind from anyone's sail but rather to point out the areas deficient so that they can be discussed with improvements the goal. But to do that you have to know the truth and what that truth is.    The commercial interest are honed in on a few select issues in which they control all the variables and are not forthcoming in the least with their customers about the details. Failure is the only thing that drives these people to improvement. One way not to fail it to manage public "expectations". The set a bar they can clear and put their thumbs under the suspenders with chest puffed.... Only the internal data tells the story fully. As we don't have access to that for decades then we have to generate it ourselves. UOA's with data that matters.  
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...