Jump to content

how to remove homeless people near house?


flyingfool

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, flyingfool said:

I know the local cops here might even be related to them , so I have to be careful. right now just collecting intelligence on them . last night was flying the drone up high and managed to track them for a while. I'm starting to get an idea of the area they live, about a mile away from their club house.  they just got a brand new bbq down there this morning from what I see. 

hard to ransack the clubhouse because there is always one guy who seems to hold the fort down.

 

not sure how dry ice bombs work but I placed an order for 100 stink bomb viles , I;ll start with this for now

Protecting your property is one thing, going outside of your property with tactics to remove those folks is another.  I have over 40 yrs criminal justice experience under my belt, there are cameras in places you don't see.  You may end up being the only one removed.  Added to being removed, hopefully your drone is registered and you have been conducting legal flying (up to this point). If not, fines can be up to 250,000 in LA county. 

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
1 hour ago, The Zip said:

Protecting your property is one thing, going outside of your property with tactics to remove those folks is another.  I have over 40 yrs criminal justice experience under my belt, there are cameras in places you don't see.  You may end up being the only one removed.  Added to being removed, hopefully your drone is registered and you have been conducting legal flying (up to this point). If not, fines can be up to 250,000 in LA county. 

so what do you suggest with those 40 years of experience? surely you must have some tricks up your sleeve if this was happening next to your house?  isn't this a health violation living under the bridge?

Posted

Quick trip to Wally world couple packages of Fish Stink bait, few bottles of deer piss, if you can go over the bridge they are under put one or both out so it runs down into their camp even living in a city you will be surprised at the numbers and types of critters that show up to chow down!!!  I've dropped a few bottles of deer pee on accident and had the stink bait fall off the back of the truck a couple of times near people and some of them did not last to long after that.  :jester:

Posted
1 hour ago, doverarjim said:

Quick trip to Wally world couple packages of Fish Stink bait, few bottles of deer piss, if you can go over the bridge they are under put one or both out so it runs down into their camp even living in a city you will be surprised at the numbers and types of critters that show up to chow down!!!  I've dropped a few bottles of deer pee on accident and had the stink bait fall off the back of the truck a couple of times near people and some of them did not last to long after that.  :jester:

excellent idea sir! do you recommend Buck or Doe urine?

Posted
2 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

Can you somehow shut off their water supply so it's not so comfy to live there any more? 

i can try stealing the water hose, but the water main is apart of a private corporation, so cant steal the handle off it. 

Posted
i can try stealing the water hose, but the water main is apart of a private corporation, so cant steal the handle off it. 



Since they are stealing water from a private business can you tip them off to this theft? Seems simple enough [emoji2373]


Ryan B.
Posted
On 5/29/2020 at 10:14 AM, flyingfool said:

I seem to have a gang of homeless kids living near my property, they are becoming a pest like lately.. tagging , cutting peoples fences breaking into my shed.. was wondering if anyone has ideas on some dirty tricks to motivate them to leave the area.. police wont do anything about them, one kid has a bright laser he shines at aircraft and my dog. he's burned holes im my security camera already. what can I do about him beside the extreme !

Water, keep the lawn wet and wherever they're traveling and maybe put some pepper spray in the air or some other irritant that will cause them to go elsewhere.  Call the FAA or the local airport and maybe even speak with the affected pilots.  The Viet Cong left some nasty surprises under the dirt and our soldiers replied in kind when they got too close to the wire at their base camps.  Trip flares might scare them off, just don't let them get burned or start a fire or the man will be after you instead.

Posted
On 5/29/2020 at 8:42 AM, diyer2 said:

Unfortunately the police will do nothing unless there's proof of them breaking the law.

Do you get along with your neighbors?
Start working together.

Put your security cameras out of reach. Get video of them doing things.

 

The sad part is the law protects them as you know.

Dirty tricks could cause retaliation.

 

Maybe file a formal complaint with the police department along with your neighbors. Stressing the fact that there was no tagging and break - ins until they showed up.

Tough situation.

:)

 

 

 

Posted
On 6/4/2020 at 3:10 AM, swathdiver said:

Water, keep the lawn wet and wherever they're traveling and maybe put some pepper spray in the air or some other irritant that will cause them to go elsewhere.  Call the FAA or the local airport and maybe even speak with the affected pilots.  The Viet Cong left some nasty surprises under the dirt and our soldiers replied in kind when they got too close to the wire at their base camps.  Trip flares might scare them off, just don't let them get burned or start a fire or the man will be after you instead.

i've called the FAA no response, but i will be attempting to take the water hose . yesterday afternoon they're down there neked washing thiers asses in broad daylight while people are walking nearby . lol

Posted

Cameras outside your house, all corners.

Fenced yard? Get a big dog, they won't bother your property anymore.

Be careful, don't get in trouble for pukes.

Posted
8 hours ago, gearheadesw said:

Cameras outside your house, all corners.

Fenced yard? Get a big dog, they won't bother your property anymore.

Be careful, don't get in trouble for pukes.

i have all this, the cameras did stopped the tagging so far, but the one kid burns holes in my cameras at night and when the dog is outside  howling at them, the kid lasers my dog in the face. then he runs off..

Posted

Stay on OP's topic. No need to stray into the Minnesota situation as Admins have determined that no threads on that subject will fly here

Posted
On 6/3/2020 at 4:27 PM, flyingfool said:

so what do you suggest with those 40 years of experience? surely you must have some tricks up your sleeve if this was happening next to your house? 

Didn't last over 40 yrs using tricks, so I can't help you there.  File a complaint with the PD every time it happens, be specific. 

 

Names of people you've contacted at the PD, time of day you've contacted the PD, how many complaints you've made, what time of day it's happening, what you believe is happening, description of who you believe is doing it, how long it's been happening, do you have any video, where you think it's happening from, and damage to your property (camera, dog, etc). 

 

This type of info will trickle down to specific shift beat cops and generate roll-byes.  They may even stop at your place and talk to you about it.  If you can call as it is happening and PD don't have a higher priority response, 75% of PDs usually get anywhere in a city with your type of complaint in about 15 minutes.  You would have already provided them with all the info they need. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...