Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Morning folks,

I am considering on installing a hood deflector on my truck. I'm looking for suggestions.... what are you folks using?

Posted

My 2020 Trail Boss has the factory GM hood deflector installed.  I'm not really a fan.  I don't care for the spring clips that hold it on.  I am ordering an AVS Aeroskin II.  I have had the original Aeroskin on the three previous trucks and I love them.

Posted

I have the AVS aeroskin 2 on my high country. I love it. I picked mine up at autoanything.com.  One year price match. My truck is black and you don't even notice it's on there until you come up to it. I would recommend having another set of hands if you are novice on putting these on. Gotta get them aligned correctly or it won't look right. 

20200523_115833.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
14 hours ago, Kchampagne said:

I have the Aeroskin Lightshield.  I like it. 

IMG_20200531_075924_7.jpg

That's a very unique color. Can't say that I have ever seen it. Would love to see a few more pics on it. Love the blacked out GMC logo.   I have a lot of that bronze look on my high country and it is really growing on me, I think this color would definitely do the same. NICE TRUCK.

Posted
27 minutes ago, TNTSilverado said:

That's a very unique color. Can't say that I have ever seen it. Would love to see a few more pics on it. Love the blacked out GMC logo.   I have a lot of that bronze look on my high country and it is really growing on me, I think this color would definitely do the same. NICE TRUCK.

Thank you!  I wanted a color that was a little more unique. I love it!!!  The GMC color is deep mahogony metallic and Chevy is havana brown. Here are a few more pics after my ceramic coating over the weekend.

IMG_20200531_075728_6.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Installed stampede's vigilante deflector. Did a how to write up here in the forum as the install instructions are kinda poor. I just don't like the idea of taping things to my truck It uses 2 clips that are clipped to hood but 3m rubberized "tape" protects it. The "tape" is like the wraps that are used now a days. No adhesive.

 

 

 

 IMG_5501.thumb.JPG.2d6052b480ea1224cd0be27aeb82f6cb.JPG

Posted

I also have the AVS Aeroskin II realy like the installation, no clips 3M tape.

  • Like 1
Posted

I went with Weathertech. I liked the AVS and ordered 3 different ones and all 3 came scratched up pretty bad. If it wasn't for that I would have just stayed with AVS

20190627_152146.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

If anyone is interested in an AVS Aeroskin 2, they are on sale now at autoanything.com for $55. 1 year price match. Just got back $9 from them when I ordered mine a month ago. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...