Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Quick comment, I took a drive earlier and it moved back up to 1/2 full.  The description above from @redwngr is likely what is happening.  Thanks again!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Have gone 800 some odd miles, added 2.5 gallons of def and the level shows to be very close to what it was when I drove the truck off the lot.  So probably around 320 miles per gallon.  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Slightly different because I actually am on my second part being replaced in 10k miles. At 2k I noticed a burning smell and smoke under my hood. Took it in. They said it was a ceramic coating burning off. I accepted this. 5k miles later I take my trailer on a 3k mile trip. At the end of the trip engine light comes on. Its the PPF. Packed full of carbon.  Dealership said it was the smell and smoke from the issues at 2k. Had it replaced.  Blue def usage is tops at 300 miles a gallon. Its now in the shop because the blue def float sensor is bad and was false reading and putting the truck into limp mode. GM is repairing that without a code. From what I read people have been getting 1k miles a gallon out of this model. Mine is just one exhaust issue after another.

Posted
13 hours ago, Jeepvkng1 said:

Its now in the shop because the blue def float sensor is bad and was false reading and putting the truck into limp mode

Kind of wondering if this is a common issue and this is something I am kind of watching for on mine right now.  My level showed it was at like 3 bars a couple weeks ago, according to the supplemental manual it should have been able to take 3.5 gallons of def.  I added less than 1.5 gallons and it was full at the tank, overfilled.  The level then showed one bar less than full.  Drove for about a hundred miles with it at that level and then the level went to full, all bars lit up green.  It has been showing full for the past 200+ miles since.  I question the accuracy of this.

Posted

When the sensor went it would go all over the place. Full, half full 160 miles down to none at all while in park. Took 2 trips to the dealership to get them to realize that it was reading full and there was one gallon of def in the tank. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

7500 miles so far on my 2020, picked it up with a full def tank and I’ve put over ten gallons in it myself. Just made a 2k miles trip pulling a 24’ Livestock trailer Not even half loaded And went through 5 gallons easily. 

Posted

My gauge stayed pegged to the full side for nearly 1000 miles.  Finally went down one bar, then after about another 500 miles it went down another bar.  Will refill it when I get to about 3 bars and see how much it takes to fill it up.  So not really sure how it is doing now, but seems to be a little better than my early estimations.  

Posted

Anyone interested in finding out what their truck is really getting for def mileage, find a nearby bulk def location.  Likely in a truck stop. Likely in the truck lanes. 

 

This 3.0L wasn't full when I got it so today I decided to fill it so at next fill I'll be able to calculate mpg. 

Anyway, with the new def fill beside the fuel fill it is super easy to use the bulk pumps.

 

The do have auto shut off.  I was in noisy fuel lanes so there was no way it would be possible to hear change in sound as fluid level starts up fill tube. 

DEF pump nozzle shut-off worked perfect.  No splash back. 

 

 

Just like checking fuel mileage, the only way to check def mileage is to fill tank, record odometer, drive, refill tank.

Miles driven divided by gallons to refill.....

 

If the tank isn't filled at both the start or end of exercise, then the mpg is just a wild ass guess.

Posted

I have a 2020 Duramax 3500 single axle 4x4 pickup and I have used over 10 gallons of DEF fluid since new.  I am currently at 4700 miles with 1/2 of the DEF tank remaining according to the DEF gauge.  This seems excessive to me since my brother has the same truck in 2018 that he has never added DEF fluid to in 14k miles.  He is at the 30% mark in his pickup but hes waiting to get that level really low before adding more since it has been in the truck so long.

Posted

My problem seems to have been fixed? since I had the def tank replaced.  They did it because I kept complaining about it and after a lot of screaming and several trips to the dealer after the gauges kept freaking out they said it was per customer request. Night and day difference all around.  Def usage is where it is supposed to be and gas mileage has improved.  Thinking they may have thrown in a update also but nothing was said to me. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I also had a 2016 DRW Silverado and I just got a 2020.  I’m in Canada so we go by KM.  I’ve driven about 1700km and burned half a tank of DEF.  it seems very excessive to me.  I called the dealer and they are looking into it .  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...