Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone had any luck with buying a new 3rd brake light with camera and hooking into the system? For trucks that didn’t come with the bed camera option? Thanks!

Posted

There was a thread about relocating the camera and one about adding the system that only connects with the rearview mirror.  Are you talking about the brake light that has 2 cameras?  I have been wondering the same thing.

Posted

Yea I am looking at the brake light camera.  It was hard finding a truck with that package in my area so I just pulled the trigger thinking I could always just add one.  I have the dealer currently looking into it. I would think there must be a plug up in that outlet area and you can purchase the third brake like with camera OEM.  I was hoping the dealer could just reprogram the camera system to allow that on my touchscreen like many models already have.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Im looking into this also. Wonder if it'll be possible to add without having to add the rear view mirror also. 

Posted

So far my dealer says they are unable to add that camera and sync with the factory head unit.  I guess I find that hard to believe. May have to go aftermarket on this one.  My wife is going to be pissed. lol

Posted

I am also interested in this.  I tow a fifth wheel and need a view of the bed - not the bumper hitch. I would be happy if there were a way to somehow redirect the hitch view camera to view the bed instead.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I am also researching if it is possible to add a bed camera on my 3rd break light to use for a fifth wheel trailer. I have a tailgate camera but no 3rd break light camera. Is it possible to add to the infotainment system with a 7 inch screen? 

Posted

There a two ways it is done as a factory option for a bed camera. (depends on trim level)

Lower trims the view is in the mirror, higher trims the view sows up on radio screen.

 

UVO         Bed View Camera, camera in the CHMSL to show a view of the cargo bed, display located in rearview mirror

 

UVN         Bed View Camera, camera in the CHMSL to show a view of the cargo bed, display located in infotainment screen, includes Two Trailer Camera Provisions

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 12/27/2021 at 2:57 PM, redwngr said:

There a two ways it is done as a factory option for a bed camera. (depends on trim level)

Lower trims the view is in the mirror, higher trims the view sows up on radio screen.

 

UVO         Bed View Camera, camera in the CHMSL to show a view of the cargo bed, display located in rearview mirror

 

UVN         Bed View Camera, camera in the CHMSL to show a view of the cargo bed, display located in infotainment screen, includes Two Trailer Camera Provisions

 

 

 

I have never heard of this.  Does my one have the camera part number? 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...