Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So my truck is about 2 years old.  I don’t drive it much and have about 17K miles on it.  I went to NAPA and bought an air filter and a cabin filter.  Then, I read the manual.  Cabin filter recommendation is 22,500 miles or two years - I’m right on track.  Then I read that the engine air filter recommendation is 45K miles or 4 years!  How is that even possible?  Does anyone have any logic for holding off on the replacement?  I figured two years, even with my low miles and around town driving, was stretching it.  Is there something magical about filters these days that I’m missing?  Heck, I got some new wipers too.  Maybe I should have waited.  Didn’t look them up, but maybe they can go five years :)

 

 

Posted

Manuals to me are more guidelines than anything. I work for Toyota at a dealership (yes yes I know, bad on both those levels lol espically here), however after 10K miles some cars are so disgusting you think they were 100K miles old. Cabin filters people are TERRIBLE about replacing, enough to where I'm shocked they won't replace them and we have told them its basically a garbage can smell wafting through their vehicle. However some vehicles they are replaced at 20K miles or 10K miles regardless how clean they are, its part of the service offered with a new purchase.

My thoughts personally on filters are if its dirty enough where you want to change it, change it. I bought an engine air filter for my truck before seeing mine, I knew it was going to be dirty, but it could run another 15K easy. I figured it's in my hand, ill replace it. Just wish the box screws were easier to remove... (you'll see [emoji6]). Cabins I will always be on top of. Amazon they are 8 bucks, its a burger and fries to keep dust out of my LTZ interior, and to be fresh for my parents during roadtrips, then I won't hesitate.

Wow this got long fast.... sorry. Hope it helps? If you want links for charcoal carbon filters ill link it, thats what I use

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Cabin filters as stated above are forgotten more than anything.  Case in point.  My next door neighbor has a 2008 Buick and he purchased from a friend.  I change the oil for him and went to change the cabin filter and it was the original one. It was so full of trash that I'm surprised the HVAC system even had air flow.  This Buick also only has 82k miles on it.

 

As for engine filters.  I usually change mine out every 20k miles.  Just something I do and makes me feel better that the engine can breath.  We live in a high pollen area in the spring and you might not be able to see it but it can fill up a filter. 

 

Yes, the manual is a guide and if followed it will serve well, but there are times and common sense that one should take into account, like the air filter.  It depends on your driving style and area.  Like is it in a high pollen and dusty  location, do you drive on a lot of dirt roads, that kind of thing.

  • Like 2
Posted

All filter vary by region. If you drive through dust storms all day they will get dirtier faster. You already have the filters and they are cheap enough so just change them.

Posted

Lsgun1, yes, I have them and will be putting them in.  I just couldn’t believe the recommendation in the manual.  Crazy.

 

VanguardK2, wish I’d had thought to look on Amazon.  At $8, I will probably change my cabin filter annually.  Thanks.

Posted
Manuals to me are more guidelines than anything. I work for Toyota at a dealership (yes yes I know, bad on both those levels lol espically here), however after 10K miles some cars are so disgusting you think they were 100K miles old. Cabin filters people are TERRIBLE about replacing, enough to where I'm shocked they won't replace them and we have told them its basically a garbage can smell wafting through their vehicle. However some vehicles they are replaced at 20K miles or 10K miles regardless how clean they are, its part of the service offered with a new purchase.

My thoughts personally on filters are if its dirty enough where you want to change it, change it. I bought an engine air filter for my truck before seeing mine, I knew it was going to be dirty, but it could run another 15K easy. I figured it's in my hand, ill replace it. Just wish the box screws were easier to remove... (you'll see [emoji6]). Cabins I will always be on top of. Amazon they are 8 bucks, its a burger and fries to keep dust out of my LTZ interior, and to be fresh for my parents during roadtrips, then I won't hesitate.

Wow this got long fast.... sorry. Hope it helps? If you want links for charcoal carbon filters ill link it, thats what I use

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk


Is this what you use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KPN5MO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AGSrFbS674XFY

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Posted
Is this what you use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KPN5MO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AGSrFbS674XFY

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

No this one. Amazon says it doesn't fit my 16 silverado, but I bought this and installed it cause when I bought it, it said it fit build quality is great and has the heft of the factory toyota carbon filters, so I trust it for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP525XP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
No this one. Amazon says it doesn't fit my 16 silverado, but I bought this and installed it cause when I bought it, it said it fit build quality is great and has the heft of the factory toyota carbon filters, so I trust it for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP525XP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Is the charcoal filter really better? I mean can you tell any difference from the factory filter?

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Posted

I just replaced engine air filters in both my 18's with Fram from Walmart. If I remember it says good for 40,000 miles on the box. Of course this depends on where you drive. 

How hard is it to change the cabin filter? Probably just as dirty as the engine air filter. Correct?

It gets the air from almost the same place. 

I can see why they get nasty.

Posted
I just replaced engine air filters in both my 18's with Fram from Walmart. If I remember it says good for 40,000 miles on the box. Of course this depends on where you drive. 
How hard is it to change the cabin filter? Probably just as dirty as the engine air filter. Correct?
It gets the air from almost the same place. 
I can see why they get nasty.
I haven't done it yet but YouTube videos show you have to take the glove box out and reach up and unlatch a compartment and pull it out. Says it's kinda hard if you have big hands.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Posted

Not super hard, more of it is the dexterity of your fingers. Not as easy as Toyota models, but enough that it isn't insane to get to.

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
Is the charcoal filter really better? I mean can you tell any difference from the factory filter?

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

There's been plenty of people who swear be either for or against them, its more preference, but I would assume 99.9% wouldn't notice the difference for or against it. Im sure there's some measurable difference in fan speed to the cabin, but the pollen in Colorado gets wild, especially in my neighborhood, and with my jeep and regular filter it'd still get real dusty using my AC, but the carbon filter in my truck doesn't let much in comparison for sure. I'd say get it if you live on a dirt road type environment with dust kicked up, or smog. But i think its a solid bet to do since the price isn't much difference. Like 7 for regular and 12 for carbon.

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Posted

Cabin filter is not too bad, just a little awkward to do, I cut a thin piece of cardboard from a beer box same size as the filter to slide under the filter before you pull it out that way the cardboard catches any debris that could fall into the fan, helpful if you have a dead mouse on top of your filter, trust me you'll know if you have a dead mouse in there.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
There's been plenty of people who swear be either for or against them, its more preference, but I would assume 99.9% wouldn't notice the difference for or against it. Im sure there's some measurable difference in fan speed to the cabin, but the pollen in Colorado gets wild, especially in my neighborhood, and with my jeep and regular filter it'd still get real dusty using my AC, but the carbon filter in my truck doesn't let much in comparison for sure. I'd say get it if you live on a dirt road type environment with dust kicked up, or smog. But i think its a solid bet to do since the price isn't much difference. Like 7 for regular and 12 for carbon.

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks. Are you saying the charcoal filter may slow the fan down as in restricting the flow? I don't live on a dirt road but I have a long gravel driveway that gets pretty dusty at times. I may try one soon. Truck is 2018 with 12,000 miles.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...