Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
They do but they don't give enough lift to level the truck.  Needs 1.5-1.75" to level....they max at 1.2".
That's disappointing but thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 12/6/2020 at 6:13 AM, Justinv113 said:

I have yet to disconnect the sway bar to see if that helps with the 6112 package. 

Did you ever test this? Theoretically the digressive valving of the Bilstein's should help offset the lack of a sway bar. 

Posted

You're absolutely right. I disconnected it last week and the handling is largely unchanged. Its a win win. Smoother ride without any real compromise. I have not towed anything without the bar, though. 

Posted

Ordered 6112s for the front and the 5100s for the rear on my 6.2 TB along with Cognito tubular UCAs.

 

I plan to set the fronts to the 1.2" setting. Right now, I have a Motofab bottom strut 1.5" spacer that goes bye bye once these get thrown on.

I'm not into huge lifts for a variety of reasons, but I'd like to run a larger tire (35s or close to it) on my stock 18s when these Duratracs wear out.

 

I'll take before and after measurements and ride impressions. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, HapaTrailBoss said:

Ordered 6112s for the front and the 5100s for the rear on my 6.2 TB along with Cognito tubular UCAs.

 

I plan to set the fronts to the 1.2" setting. Right now, I have a Motofab bottom strut 1.5" spacer that goes bye bye once these get thrown on.

I'm not into huge lifts for a variety of reasons, but I'd like to run a larger tire (35s or close to it) on my stock 18s when these Duratracs wear out.

 

I'll take before and after measurements and ride impressions. 

You don't need UCAs with the 6112s.  Stimulus money burning a hole?  🤣

Posted
Just now, lapoolboy said:

You don't need UCAs with the 6112s.  Stimulus money burning a hole?  🤣

LOL unfortunately I won't be getting a penny of that just contributing to national consumerism on my own.

 

I pound my truck off road, it's more peace of mind even if it's a placebo.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I completely forgot to do ride height measurements with my 1.5 spacer compared to the 1.2 the 6112s provide. I can tell there is a slight rake which I prefer anyways since I load up my bed with crap a couple of times a month.

 

I can say it's a very noticeable difference from factory as far as ride quality. The truck is far more composed and planted on rough pavement. Body lean is vastly reduced and the truck has a firm confidence inspiring feeling. I'll probably hit the trails tomorrow or next weekend and share the differences there vs the stock suspension.

 

I know a lot of people mentioned this being night and day compared to the stock ranchos, while not to that extent IMO this was definitely worth the price paid.

Posted

Can anyone say if the 6112s are capable of handling the additional weight of a winch bumper? I have a Fab Fours Matrix bumper ordered and it weighs 150 lbs. Trying to avoid having additional squat up-front and increasing the already drastic rake.   Truck is a 2020 Sierra 1500 AT4. Thanks.

Posted

With the 6112's and aftermarket UCA's, how are you loosening the UCA bolts to grease the bushings? You can't fit a wrench in there, thoughts?

Posted
3 minutes ago, drs1er said:

With the 6112's and aftermarket UCA's, how are you loosening the UCA bolts to grease the bushings? You can't fit a wrench in there, thoughts?

Excellent point.  I suspect they are just pumping the grease to them without worrying (or knowing) about the harm it can do to the bushings.  This is why the rubber-bushing ReadyLift UCAs are so attractive.  Too bad they don't sell them separately.  

Posted
9 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Excellent point.  I suspect they are just pumping the grease to them without worrying (or knowing) about the harm it can do to the bushings.  This is why the rubber-bushing ReadyLift UCAs are so attractive.  Too bad they don't sell them separately.  

 This reason alone makes me wish i didn't go the 6112 route.

 

Are you still running the icon coilovers with uca's, are you happy with them?

Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, drs1er said:

 This reason alone makes me wish i didn't go the 6112 route.

 

Are you still running the icon coilovers with uca's, are you happy with them?

Nope.  Sold them to a buddy at work.  I'm running 2" GM lift, stock UCAs, 6112's set at 1.2", and 5160's in the back.  Happy as a pig in slop!

PXL_20210323_225313688.jpg

Edited by lapoolboy
  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Nope.  Sold them to a buddy at work.  I'm running 2" GM lift, stock UCAs, 6112's set at 1.2", and 5160's in the back.  Happy as a pig in slop!

PXL_20210323_225313688.jpg

I'm running the same setup, no complaints on ride quality.

 

Just had to get my CV shafts replaced under warranty because they both started slinging grease from the boots at the diff.

 

Nice truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,357 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...