Jump to content

Ready Lift 2” SST vs. 1.75” Level AT4

cnet24
 Share

Recommended Posts

cnet24 Enthusiast

cnet24

Posted
Posted

Looking to get a level kit installed in my AT4 and narrowed down to these two kits. I’m leaning towards the 1.75” kit with new UCAs as that seems like it will make my truck almost perfectly level. Besides the 1” rear spacer in the SST kit, is there any difference between the two kits? Leaning away from the SST to avoid rake.

 

The 1.75” level kit states max tire size for AT4s is 275... Has anyone been able to run 295 size without issue? Pics appreciated.

  • Like 1
amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

Perfectly level will appear nose high from a side view and rake is good for you know, truck stuff, things the truck was purchased for... Getting new UCA's is good since you will be stacking leveling kits, so anything to help the front end over the long term will help. 

 

Look around the different leveled trail boss/at4 threads (there are a ton of them) and you will be able to figure out what size you can safely run. I have seen some mention a 295/70/18 with just a level and no rubbing, but that is what searching and reading threads is for as it all depends on tire, exact level, situation, etc. What might not rub on the street or pulling in to a driveway might rub at full flex off road. 

 

Tyler

cnet24 Enthusiast

cnet24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks @amxguy1970, I've read many of those threads but it often leads to more questions than answers. The only constant is the push for new UCA's on this style, which has pushed me to the two options mentioned in the topic.

 

FYI- I called Ready Lift today and they seemed to be very CYA with their answers in regards to the questions in my OP. I'm hoping the shop that installs for me is a little more open and will provide better guidance. Seems to be a ton of unknowns in lifting or levelling these vehicles. 

WACKEM_G Enthusiast

WACKEM_G

Posted
Posted

I was goin to go this route but have heard u cannot use auto 4 wheel drive with the ready lift system! Think I’m going the bds lift route!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted
I was goin to go this route but have heard u cannot use auto 4 wheel drive with the ready lift system! Think I’m going the bds lift route!
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
True, adding a leveling kit to an AT4 is same as stacking on a regular truck.

I may order the 1.75 from ready lift and just use the UCA and 0.75 lower spacer. Ill still have some rake but it'll look a bit better.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

cnet24 Enthusiast

cnet24

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 minutes ago, WACKEM_G said:

I was goin to go this route but have heard u cannot use auto 4 wheel drive with the ready lift system! Think I’m going the bds lift route!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not seen that. Where did you get that info?

RadoPhan Enthusiast

RadoPhan

Posted
Posted
I have not seen that. Where did you get that info?

If you pull up the kits directly on the ReadyLift site, expand the Details and it will say it but only on the 2” lift.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted
If you pull up the kits directly on the ReadyLift site, expand the Details and it will say it but only on the 2” lift.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ready lift was saying not to use it...

People are forgetting this truck is already lifted a small amount.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
RadoPhan Enthusiast

RadoPhan

Posted
Posted
Ready lift was saying not to use it...

People are forgetting this truck is already lifted a small amount.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk


Yes very true but for some reason they don’t say the same for the 1.75” lift. Here’s ReadyLift’s response on their site. The 2” lift is slightly higher in the front but adds an additional 1” in the rear so not sure what makes it more prone to issues.
0c5401ed81844fd1ba12cd96f0113678.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted

The problem is the torque difference when you start to drop the CVDs, theres a cool video I came across on YouTube that shows the physics.

Ideally you want a CV shaft to be as in line as possible. The more you raise the front without correcting the angle (BDS drops the differtial to keep near stock angles) the CV will experience more stress and wear

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
RadoPhan Enthusiast

RadoPhan

Posted
Posted
The problem is the torque difference when you start to drop the CVDs, theres a cool video I came across on YouTube that shows the physics.

Ideally you want a CV shaft to be as in line as possible. The more you raise the front without correcting the angle (BDS drops the differtial to keep near stock angles) the CV will experience more stress and wear

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk



I’ve never had a vehicle with auto 4wd and didn’t plan on using it much anyways. I’ve typically had trucks with just the normal 4wd so I guess it should be fine putting it in 4wd manually when I need it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WACKEM_G Enthusiast

WACKEM_G

Posted
Posted

When you lift the truck more in the front and don’t reposition the diff this will happen! Makes sense! Why the bds lift repositions the diff. No issues!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
jd13 New Member

jd13

Posted
Posted
On 9/21/2020 at 2:54 PM, AdamAT4 said:

True, adding a leveling kit to an AT4 is same as stacking on a regular truck.

I may order the 1.75 from ready lift and just use the UCA and 0.75 lower spacer. Ill still have some rake but it'll look a bit better.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

Did you ever go through with this? I'm leaning towards doing the same. Want slightly larger tires on stock 20" rims, use the truck for truck stuff at times, but also want it to look a little more level.

AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted

Not yet, but being in Canada the BDS coilover 2.5" is nearly $6k and a camburg kit is about the same so ill be going this route.

I haven't yet as I've been doing other little things like my interior wrap and lighting etc... i ended up having some house issues that dipped into my wheel/ tire combo. Being that its now winter and I need my winter wheels ill be installing it in the spring

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • Black02Silverado
      New Retail & Commercial Promo

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • newdude
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By newdude · Posted

      It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...