Jump to content

2020 Sierra 1500 license plate bulb removal advice or tips?

Daryl Casey

By Daryl Casey
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daryl Casey Enthusiast

Daryl Casey

Posted
Posted

Swapping from the yellowish bulbs to white LED. (Why GMC, couldn't you have made the license plate bulbs bright white like the rest of the truck lights?) Looking at the bulb wiring, I can't seem to get my hands on the connector and bulb housing due to the big tube that's part of the tow hitch frame. Other than finding someone with smaller hands, can anyone offer some advice on how to remove the wiring harness and the bulb?

 

Is it easier/necessary to disconnect the wiring harness then remove the bulb or can I get the bulb housing out with the harness still attached?

 

Thanks in advance!

Daryl 

  • Like 1
BluegrassMotorsport Enthusiast

BluegrassMotorsport

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, Daryl Casey said:

Swapping from the yellowish bulbs to white LED. (Why GMC, couldn't you have made the license plate bulbs bright white like the rest of the truck lights?) Looking at the bulb wiring, I can't seem to get my hands on the connector and bulb housing due to the big tube that's part of the tow hitch frame. Other than finding someone with smaller hands, can anyone offer some advice on how to remove the wiring harness and the bulb?

 

Is it easier/necessary to disconnect the wiring harness then remove the bulb or can I get the bulb housing out with the harness still attached?

 

Thanks in advance!

Daryl 

You can get the bulb out without having to remove the harness. But it takes some patience. I had to turn my hands a bunch of different ways before I figured out an angle that works. It's a pain but it looks really nice when it's done. 

 

IlliniST Enthusiast

IlliniST

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BluegrassMotorsport said:

You can get the bulb out without having to remove the harness. But it takes some patience. I had to turn my hands a bunch of different ways before I figured out an angle that works. It's a pain but it looks really nice when it's done. 

 

 

Exactly this.  I don't have huge hands, but they are thick....  Just have to find the right combination of twisting your hand and your tongue at the right angle...

Grover67 Enthusiast

Grover67

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Daryl Casey said:

Swapping from the yellowish bulbs to white LED. (Why GMC, couldn't you have made the license plate bulbs bright white like the rest of the truck lights?) Looking at the bulb wiring, I can't seem to get my hands on the connector and bulb housing due to the big tube that's part of the tow hitch frame. Other than finding someone with smaller hands, can anyone offer some advice on how to remove the wiring harness and the bulb?

 

Is it easier/necessary to disconnect the wiring harness then remove the bulb or can I get the bulb housing out with the harness still attached?

 

Thanks in advance!

Daryl 

Ya agree completely on why they didn't go with LED's like everything else on mine also. They are tight in there to get at, used some needle nose pliers to help get them in /out.

 

Good luck

 

-Grover67

Grover67 Enthusiast

Grover67

Posted
Posted

I used Sylvania LED's I got at Walmart, don't remember the number. Just make sure you get the right color, I got the ambers ones by mistake first time  lol

 

-Grover67

Daryl Casey Enthusiast

Daryl Casey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The bulb specifics are W5W T10. I ordered these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0821GVXB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

 

6000K is the "bright white" color you'd want to match the rest of the lights. The current license plate bulbs look like 4000K (soft white). 

 

Once I get them installed, after what sounds like much cursing and sore hands, I'll post up some pics.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice!

DC

 

  • Thanks 1
mrtizzom Enthusiast

mrtizzom

Posted
Posted

My hands aren't the smallest but I was able to contort myself around enough to reach up in there. I found it somewhat easier to reach from the center over the hitch as opposed as to coming in from the sides. Took about 10 minutes total once I figured it out. Worth the pain and time lol

ShadyOakBrewer Enthusiast

ShadyOakBrewer

Posted
Posted

Agree. Tight fit. Only tip is, if you are using LEDs that require the correct polarity, check that the bulbs light up before screwing the bulb holder back into the frame...

  • Like 2
mrtizzom Enthusiast

mrtizzom

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, ShadyOakBrewer said:

Agree. Tight fit. Only tip is, if you are using LEDs that require the correct polarity, check that the bulbs light up before screwing the bulb holder back into the frame...

Good point...you'll save yourself some swearing if they are in backwards lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Ancillary parts to the lower intake and connections went together without issue.   There was a brief pause when I leak-tested the fuel lines and injection system. Fuel was spraying all over. Lovely. O-rings weren't sealing the fuel lines to the spider, and inbound line was leaking at schrader valve, leaks at both flange nuts. It's moments like those when you just want to set fire to the whole shop, and be done with it. I was mostly enjoying the project up until that point, and was tracking to an agenda of having a running Blazer and a cold beverage in hand by dinnertime.    I found some larger Viton o-rings for my spider and some grease to get them to seat. One leak solved. Swapped fuel line Schrader core for old core. Still leaked. Swapped entire valve for old valve. Leak solved. Nudged the flange nuts a little tighter on the connections. Another leak solved. I could cycle the key / prime the pump and the intake was staying dry.    Reassembled the upper intake, with 10,000 vacuum lines, and filled the cooling system with water* (this is temporary, I'm not done with the cooling system yet).   Showtime!!   Cranked it over and smoke billowed, it was running rough. CEL illuminated and began flashing. P0300 and I somehow tripped a code for the TPS sensor, voltage low.    There's nothing as unrewarding as a vehicle that won't run (and produces the same code/problem) after hours of research and work.   Clearly I was in over my head. Was the timing off, did I stab the distributor incorrectly? Is the new distributor bad? With my limited OBD 1.5 data stream I really don't have a lot of parameters to see. The engine was pulling mad timing again (flooding?).   Think, Atlas, think.   1-6-5-4-3-2. One, six, five.....four, three, ....two. Wait a second. That makes no sense. 1 is the forward cylinder on the driver's side, so 2 should be the forward cylinder on the passenger side, not 6.    I can't believe it, but I'm looking right at it. Swapped 2 and 6 on the distributor and turned the key over, and...   It fired, coughed and stumbled, smoked, and then settled into a smooth idle. The scanner showed no codes, no lights on the dash, and the throttle was nice and responsive to gentle revs while it warmed up.   It's working!!! IT'S WORKING!!!   I paused for a late dinner, no cold beverage yet. I was determined to do my shakedown run. Did a basic safety and fluids check one more time and then went out and put almost 70 miles on it last night. She's a runner, runs good.   Came home and did a post-trip, post-mortem. The underside is dry *except* for where the last owner RTV'd the snow out of the intersection of the timing cover and oil pan. He said he had replaced the timing cover seal, but, my dude had clearly done it incorrectly and then tried to hold back fate with black RTV. Never works.   Yesterday morning I replaced the broken driver's door mirror. As much as I hate cheap Chinese parts, thank goodness for cheap Chinese parts. I think an entire new power mirror assembly cost me like $30, and it works perfectly. Replacement tail lights (faded, and one was busted) ran me about $12/side. I have a door pin kit ready to go in because the driver's door sags just a little and I want to fix that because there's nothing sadder than a saggy door.   I don't know what's next for this rig. Half of me wants to take some nice photos (there's a park nearby with a HUGE American Flag that always seems to be catching wind) and throw it up on CL/Marketplace for a couple grand and see if it flies. The other half of me... I've got a sweet running S10 Blazer that's been keeping my mind off of whatever I'm going through right now, and it's bringing some joy, and is cheaper than therapy. Maybe I'll keep it around for a little while. However, this is my 5th vehicle, just for me. 4 is really my limit, but they are not junk, so need very little attention. I don't know...there's a point where it's just too much and I don't see owning this truck long term. But I solved its major problem, got it running, so I'm going to stick a feather in my cap for now.   Sometimes we just need to get our hands dirty and fix something in the physical world to gain some satisfaction.
    • PureZ71
      PureZ71's 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss Build

      By PureZ71 · Posted

      Happy 4th of July! Be safe out there tonight     
    • PureZ71
      Show Us Your 2019 & Up T1 Pictures !

      By PureZ71 · Posted

      Happy 4th of July!  
    • Core-Lokt
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I bought the truck new in December 2022, and it's got 60,000 miles. The front cover magnet had slightly more glitter, but overall very clean, no off odor, and good-colored; really nothing to report. My truck has Hi-Lo transfer case, and the fluid looked great, as well. I have towed..maybe 1,000 miles. Yes, this was the first change for all three driveline items. I'll probably do the transmission at next oil change.
    • Another JR
      Disconnecting Battery

      By Another JR · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...