Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If you want to keep fuel costs low, 5.3 with 10 speed.  If you didn't have to have a Trail Boss, 5.3 10 speed or 3.0 diesel to keep fuel costs lower.  Yes, diesel and premium are close on pricing yet your MPG empty and towing will be superior, therefore you will get more miles/tank.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, jnissen said:

Curious why your not including the 3.0L turbo diesel in your question. Look into it as well as it has gobs of torque and can come with two different rear gear ratios along with the 10 speed. Towing and non towing mileage is hard to beat.

I would second this and recommend at least taking a quick look into it in person. You can EASILY make your own trail boss aftermarket a number of ways if you want that look. Could possibly be cheaper too as trail bosses seem to have higher demand/less discounts. 
 

While people say the 3.0 was made more for good fuel mileage rather than towing... I would argue it still outperforms the other engines towing, pound for pound until you start reaching the upper rating limits. Which doesn’t sound like you will at all. 
 

3.0 peak torque of 460 at 1500 rpm

6.2 peak torque of 460 at 4100 rpm

5.3 peak torque of 383 at 4100 rpm

Edited by Duramax3oh
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, TeamSaris said:

I could be wrong but if you build a '21 on chevy.com, the only way to get the 10 speed is the 6.2   5.3/10spd seems to be GMC only for 21

D63ADABA-187A-4D3A-9A74-00F3A7414C87.thumb.jpeg.b0d498b76a10668b87a0f088bda92620.jpeg

 

Still shows 10 speed as standard on LT TB, same as 2020.

 

There is still apparently a constraint on that transmission though. Many of the 2021 GMC 5.3 trucks that should have the 10 speed standard (like the SLT trim) have a $200 credit and the 8 speed instead. They could be doing that for the Trail Boss too, dunno.
 

5941AFE3-83FF-482E-B5D0-822192DAF246.thumb.jpeg.293cb67c94837f516b6ce37b823c9ed6.jpeg

Posted

I noticed the 200 dollar thing too. It was actually tough finding a 5.3 10 Speed on a lot.

 

Here is what Chevy.com tells me though. Maybe because I have double cab checked not crew? Trail Boss actually only showing a 6 speed 5.3. 6.2 is 10 Speed on all. 

IMG_1688.jpeg

Posted

The Custom TB gets the 6 speed and AFM 5.3. LT TB gets the DFM 5.3 and what should be the 10 speed. LTZ 5.3 still makes do with the 8 speed. High Country and LT TB are the only 5.3 Chevys with the 10 speed.

Posted (edited)

I’m about 99% sure only crew cabs in the Silverado for 21 can have the 5.3L and 10 spd combo.
I’m  pretty sure the double cab is almost done for except Elevation option on Sierra with 5.3L and 10 spd option.....maybe Trailboss custom??  
I’ve only seen double cabs for the custom Trailboss around here??  Did they drop the crew cab for them??

Edited by TNTSilverado
Posted

Thanks for the replies. I actually didn’t think about the Duramax option. I’ve never owned a diesel truck before. How reliable are the 3.0’s? Definitely good idea.

Posted
18 minutes ago, TNTSilverado said:

I’m about 99% sure only crew cabs in the Silverado for 21 can have the 5.3L and 10 spd combo.
I’m  pretty sure the double cab is almost done for except Elevation option on Sierra with 5.3L and 10 spd option.....maybe Trailboss custom??  
I’ve only seen double cabs for the custom Trailboss around here??  Did they drop the crew cab for them??

You can get a crew cab Custom TB, but you can’t get an LT TB in a double cab. They actually never made it for some reason. Same goes for High Country. So no double cab 5.3 10 speed possible. 


They also killed off the double cab LTZ, SLT, and AT4 this past year. It’s pretty much over for that configuration.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, R J said:

Thanks for the replies. I actually didn’t think about the Duramax option. I’ve never owned a diesel truck before. How reliable are the 3.0’s? Definitely good idea.

Way too soon to tell long term. They’ve had some glitches but nothing major from what I’ve seen. And you do get a longer warranty with the diesel at least.

Posted
25 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

The Custom TB gets the 6 speed and AFM 5.3. LT TB gets the DFM 5.3 and what should be the 10 speed. LTZ 5.3 still makes do with the 8 speed. High Country and LT TB are the only 5.3 Chevys with the 10 speed.

They sure don't make it easy. Thanks for the clarification. 

 

It's a shame about the double cab. Its the perfect size truck for some of us. Ill be keeping my double cab for a long time apparently! 

Posted
9 hours ago, AdamAT4 said:

Id like to know what it would cost for 3.73s in these trucks... never did gearing on an IFS truck before.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

Dunno... But this kit should work

 

"2014-UP GM 1/2 Ton with 5.3L Front & Rear Gear Package – www.RigidAxle.com" https://www.rigidaxle.com/products/2014-up-gm-1-2-ton-with-5-3l-front-rear-gear-package?variant=13651251789859&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23LvBk_gYtud9iAoE3k5iFdCcZR7nURARaEvTOfXgVA4_43Ch9Y2XYBoCqTIQAvD_BwE

 

 

Posted

I frequent RV and Travel Trailer forums and have read positive attributes to using gas or diesel engines. These were points that were brought up by both Casual Campers and Full Time RVer's.

 

Benefits of diesel : 

Diesel will get better mpg towing and empty. 

Diesel has more torque at lower RPMs.

 

 

Benefits of gas:

 

Gas costs less per gallon.

Although a minimal cast, you don't need to run DEF fluid.

If an engine has trouble while you're traveling the back country, you're more likely to find someone who can work on a gas engine versus a diesel engine. Diesel mechanics are more expensive than gas mechanics in my area.

 

Then you have maintenance to consider. Maintaining a gas engine is usually cheaper (fewer filters etc..) The 3.0 Diesel has a belt that needs to be changed at around 150,000 miles (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). 

 

Some RV forum members also mentioned the payload of their truck was less with the diesel engine because it was heavier. If true, this would hinder your GCWR or Gross Combined Weight Rating(the total weight of your  truck and trailer loaded with gear and passengers). 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Here is my advice. Go big! My father in law was in your same situation. He bought a 1500 w/5.3. Then bought a 2500 with a 6.2. He ultimately ended up with a 3500 Duelly, diesel to tow his motor home to Arizona twice a year. I think you should at least look at a 2500.

Posted
20 minutes ago, CamaroVetteGuy said:

Here is my advice. Go big! My father in law was in your same situation. He bought a 1500 w/5.3. Then bought a 2500 with a 6.2. He ultimately ended up with a 3500 Duelly, diesel to tow his motor home to Arizona twice a year. I think you should at least look at a 2500.

5500 lbs is still half ton territory.  No need to go 3/4 ton at that weight.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...