Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So if I were to go with the 2in leveling block that my GM dealer offered for my 2020 elevation, the UCA angle won’t be an issue.  It only would if I went TB lift plus the blocks, equaling 4in ish of lift?

 

Im happy with the ride of the elevation, just want it level, so am thinking the easiest and cheapest option is just the GM blocks?

Posted
On 1/3/2021 at 6:42 PM, Duramax3oh said:

Glad OP got that settled, you shouldn't have any problems.

 

The GM 2" lift comes with new CV axles. I know this has probably been discussed a million times but what exactly do they change from the original stock ones (I believe it's the angle)? Does 2" create enough stress on the original cv axles though? Ie the Bilstein 5100/6112 front strut replacement with 2" lift. Would we really need to get the "trail boss" cv axles or is that not a problem to worry about?

New CV axles are designed "to run at higher running angles."  Straight from a GM reps mouth.

 

 

 

Posted

I replaced my 2" rough country lower kit with a 2.5" motofab upper kit and during the install I noticed that one of the boots was "messed up" already  from the place that installed the lower rough country kit which is well known and even does work for our local dealer.  I could've fixed with a hose clamp which I  temporarily did  When I finished the other axle outer clamp came off and I had grease on the inner boot that I couldnt find where it was coming from. 

 

I took the truck to the dealer to get them to fix the boots but they were just going to replace both axles so I was going to let them if the wanted to do that but axles were on back order so a month later I brought the truck in to get fixed because axles came in and then they call me after looking again and said they couldn't fix them under warranty so I got a price of about $1200 to $1400 to have them replace them.  So then I started looking for axles online because they were about $75-$100 cheaper than the dealer for each one so I placed an order with one of the GM parts online store and after a few days I got notification the order was cancelled so I called Chevy and talked them down from $260/each to $200/each so I went ahead and bought them and I also let them know I was going to go home and install them in my garage in about 3 hours with regular crappy tools after they told me that it would take them like 8 hours so I did get them installed and spent 3 maybe 4 hours doing so.  I looked over the old axles and found a pin hole in the one inner axle boot  which was hard to even see holding the axle in my hands  and that's where grease was coming from I mentioned about.  I am going to fix them or replace the boots on the old axles and have spares or sell them.  I could've repaired them and placed back on but Didn't want to have my truck broke down that long and the thought of them not being new on a truck with 7k miles.   Anyway I was looking at replacing with trail boss axles to help with the angles but I saw that it was going to be hard to track some available down online and knew that my dealer had the other ones already in their hands so I went ahead and got them.   While I was installing axles I noticed a bad angle with the truck on a jack but after I installed I looked at them  again with the truck on the ground and they looked fine to me although I am not a mechanic by no means.

 

Dont know if this helps your or not. lol

Posted
18 hours ago, ero2 said:

So if I were to go with the 2in leveling block that my GM dealer offered for my 2020 elevation, the UCA angle won’t be an issue.  It only would if I went TB lift plus the blocks, equaling 4in ish of lift?

 

Im happy with the ride of the elevation, just want it level, so am thinking the easiest and cheapest option is just the GM blocks?

Based on the fact that the TB/AT4 with their factory 2" and the GM OE Accessory 2" lift all use the same UCA as the non lifted trucks, it is safe to infer any lift up to 2" is within the engineered limits of the factory UCA. Anything above a 2" lift is questionable and should probably have a new UCA.

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, SilveradoRST said:

New CV axles are designed "to run at higher running angles."  Straight from a GM reps mouth.

 

That's a somewhat misleading statement that can lead to misconceptions.  The only difference with the CV's is their length, which allows them to stay in the CV Tri-Pot Joint when the front suspension is completely unloaded and at maximum articulation .  Technically, the stock CV's are long enough, but they are close enough to potentially pull out in EXTREME circumstances so they added a little length to them to make sure they don't come out of the Tri-Pot Joint due to over extension.  That's it, that's the ONLY difference and the ONLY reason for the difference in length.  If you want to get into the mechanical engineering aspect of it you could argue that CV's increased length, while maintaining equal width, makes them more prone to failures in other ways, but they are fairly robust to begin with and I have no worries about failure with them. 

 

Regardless of what lift you go with, or how high you go, non TB CV' angles will be nearly identical to that of a TB CV angles given the same lift.  Again, the only difference is length and that's to keep them seated in the Tri-Pot Joint of the CV under extreme articulation circumstances

Edited by Gangly
Posted

I’ve been looking at Readylift. They make a 2” kit for the front and blocks for the back. Reviews are pretty good, I haven’t read anything bad. According to recent posts about the CV joint length, it shouldn’t be a problem as long as I stay at 2”. I would like to find the GM pieces but who knows if or when it might be available. 

Posted (edited)

I want to run the ReadyLift 1.75" leveling kit on my TB suspension.  I want to replace all the shocks with the Bilstein 5100s while it's apart.  Does anyone know if the front Bilstein body is the same diameter as the stock Ranchos?  I want to make sure the ReadyLift spring perch spacer will fit down over the body.  Of course, I'd run them at the stock-height circlip setting to avoid any potential "over lift" issues.

Edited by lapoolboy
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, lapoolboy said:

I want to run the ReadyLift 1.75" leveling kit on my TB suspension.  I want to replace all the shocks with the Bilstein 5100s while it's apart.  Does anyone know if the front Bilstein body is the same diameter as the stock Ranchos?  I want to make sure the ReadyLift spring perch spacer will fit down over the body.  Of course, I'd run them at the stock-height circlip setting to avoid any potential "over lift" issues.

Which READYLIFT kit are you considering?

 

This READYLIFT 1.75" kit intended for the TB/AT4 does not have a "spring perch spacer": https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-at4-trail-bossgm-1500-truck.html

It has an upper strut spacer (goes on top of the coilover) and lower strut spacer (goes under the bottom of the shock).

 

As for the shock diameter, both the Rancho and the Bilstein B8-5100s use the stock spring perch so they should be fundamentally the same diameter.

 

No expertise implied or expressed

Edited by RWTJR
left out a word
Posted
40 minutes ago, RWTJR said:

Which READYLIFT kit are you considering?

 

This READYLIFT 1.75" kit intended for the TB/AT4 does not have a "spring perch spacer": https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-at4-trail-bossgm-1500-truck.html

It has an upper strut spacer (goes on top of the coilover) and lower strut spacer (goes under the bottom of the shock).

 

As for the shock diameter, both the Rancho and the Bilstein B8-5100s use the stock spring perch so they should be fundamentally the same diameter.

 

No expertise implied or expressed

Apologies....I meant the 2" SST kit they offer for the TB/AT4 with new UCAs and spring perch spacers.  I don't see any issue running this kit with the Bilstein 5100s set at stock height setting, do you?

Posted
18 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Apologies....I meant the 2" SST kit they offer for the TB/AT4 with new UCAs and spring perch spacers.  I don't see any issue running this kit with the Bilstein 5100s set at stock height setting, do you?

I'm no expert but I would think if you run the 5100s set at stock height it should be the same as if you ran the stock Rancho shocks. Of course the Bilsteins will ride differently but the height/lift should be the same.

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

Posted

I just had my front Ranchos replaced with Billstein 5100s on my 2020 AT4 (OE 2" lift stock).  Now I'm feeling a "bump" after sharp turns when I straighten the wheels.  It wasn't there before.  I'm taking it back to the shop for them to take a look but any ideas what this could be?  I have a slight rub (running 285/65/20 KO2s) that wasn't there before but this is more of a thump.  The Billsteins are supposed to be set at 1.1 to give me slightly more clearance/level than stock.

Posted
32 minutes ago, TNAT4 said:

I just had my front Ranchos replaced with Billstein 5100s on my 2020 AT4 (OE 2" lift stock).  Now I'm feeling a "bump" after sharp turns when I straighten the wheels.  It wasn't there before.  I'm taking it back to the shop for them to take a look but any ideas what this could be?  I have a slight rub (running 285/65/20 KO2s) that wasn't there before but this is more of a thump.  The Billsteins are supposed to be set at 1.1 to give me slightly more clearance/level than stock.

Did the 1.1" level the truck?

Posted
12 minutes ago, TNAT4 said:

Pretty close, still a slight rake but much better

 

48 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Did the 1.1" level the truck?

 

Posted
On 1/20/2021 at 8:24 AM, TNAT4 said:

I just had my front Ranchos replaced with Billstein 5100s on my 2020 AT4 (OE 2" lift stock).  Now I'm feeling a "bump" after sharp turns when I straighten the wheels.  It wasn't there before.  I'm taking it back to the shop for them to take a look but any ideas what this could be?  I have a slight rub (running 285/65/20 KO2s) that wasn't there before but this is more of a thump.  The Billsteins are supposed to be set at 1.1 to give me slightly more clearance/level than stock.

Turns out it was a loose cam on the UCA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,399 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...