Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

New member here.  Waiting on my 2021 Sierra AT4 to arrive.  

 

Maybe i missed this topic so please excuse me if this is repetitive.

 

So i know all about the multipro hitting the ball hitch.  It seems like the only 2 options there are eithe a sensor for when a hitch is in or the B&W hitch.

 

I did some measuring and will need a 3-4 inch drop to tow my boat.  I see B&W only makes a 2 inch drop for the 1500s.  Also i would have to turn the ball around each time since in its lowest position it would still hit.

 

Are there any other options out there?  

Does the B&W really not make contact even if you jump on the tailgate?

 

Since i only tow my boat 1-2 times a month i might just have to remove the hitch each time I use it and save alot of money. 

As i have not received the truck yet (2-3 weeks) how easy is it to accidentally lower the part of the multipro when you have a ball hitch in place?

Posted (edited)

Just take it out and put it in when needed or don’t use the multi pro tailgate, slightly annoying but saves money.

Edited by Sierra50BMG
  • Like 1
Posted

the tailgate operates as a normal tailgate and the user will initiate the further drop down of upper section. That's how I understand it, so the hitting the ball shouldn't be an issue if you just remove the ball when not in use or just don't use that part of the tailgate.

Posted

Anything is possible, but using a little common sense will prevent damage from happening.  Having said that, it is not as easy a mistake to happen as one would think.  The inner smaller tailgate can not be opened at the exact time as the larger one as this is a built in safety feature.  The buttons are not super sensitive so it's not like you can really accidentally hit the other button for the smaller one after opening the full tailgate, but if you do, they open pretty slow.  Even with the entire tailgate open and you still manage to somehow press the button for the inner tailgate, as I said they do open pretty slowly and one should be able to catch it before it hits the hitch.  These tailgates are nothing like the older ones where once you open them they will slam down in the fully opened position if they slip, these new ones lower slowly I am guessing by using an internal torsion spring.  Basically it acts like there is a lift gate assist cylinder on it.  Hope this explanation helps.

Posted

Thank you all.  Makes sense.  I will buy a cheaper hitch and put it in when i tow and keep it off the rest of the time.

 

Now i just need to wait for the truck to be delivered.

Posted (edited)

Curt makes a kit to detect if ball mount inserted and then disable multipro.

 

 

I've bashed knees/shins on ball mounts often enough that part of unhooking a trailer is removing the ball mount as well. 

 

 

 

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
Posted

I know people say just remove hitch but the reason I like to keep mine is when you get some that feel they have to back up all the way with their hitch and end up hitting your truck. 

Posted

The reason to remove the hitch is easy one for anyone who has been rear ended in the truck with the hitch in. Direct frame impact and the back injury that follows will remind you to never drive with the hitch in unless you’re towing something. I agree with the above comment of unhooking the trailer and removing the ball should be one process. I hope you take my word for it, and don’t learn this first hand my friend.

Posted

I had a recovery hitch on my previous 4Runner, so, when I got the AT4, I stuck it into the receiver, just in case it was needed to tug someone.  It doesn't stick out far, and the clevis hangs straight down, didn't think a thing about it.   Was doing some stuff around the yard, had dropped the tailgate AND the inner tailgate... the inner tailgate, I'd set down gently, then... forgot all about it.     A couple of hours later, I started to sit down on the flipdown portion of the inner tailgate... then suddenly remembered the recovery hitch, flipped up the tailgate, and drat, I have a shallow pushed-in dent... right there in the very center of the inner tailgate, between the top lip and the top of the handle's trim. 

 

Yeah, I don't keep a hitch, not even the recovery hitch, in place now, went and got a hitch plug to stick there instead.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
    • "Life is getting back to normal."    I'm driving again and all new joints are operating as expected for this stage of recovery.   My most recent joint replacement still requires a lot of attention but experience has taught me that time will quiet the remaining pain.  I joked with my surgeon that another joint replacement would take my mind off my most recent surgery and he responded by saying the next will be a hip!  There are no plans for another surgery but, unlike me, I don't think he was joking!  I certainly wouldn't refuse further replacement  if required but hope to spend time out of the "post-op"  period.  I can't stress enough that if you have been recommended for total hip, knee or shoulder replacement that you welcome the offer.  Post-op "recovery" may sound daunting and painful, however, this is far better than the insidious erosion of mobility you are currently experiencing.  Imagine what it would feel like to wake up most mornings feeling better and more mobile than you did the previous day!  Prior to my first surgery in June 2025, even getting out of bed was becoming a formidable task.  Since the day after my first surgery, I get out of bed everyday easily and unassisted.  Making the switch to feeling a little better each day rather than a little worse, is hugely motivating!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...