Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
33 minutes ago, Car Dude said:

So if the rings are not installed the result would be a 2" drop or so?

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Posted
On 1/20/2021 at 2:59 PM, 808 HI said:

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Posted
1 hour ago, Car Dude said:

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Bob ? If the belltech struts are still produced like they were few years back then I believe the ride quality will be worse than stock. Bilsteins are the only aftermarket struts that Ive read nothing but good reviews. Before doing this I would have to get both struts and do some comparison to see if the mounts are the same, from pictures they do. 

Posted

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

285/40 or 285/35 might give you what you are looking for, have you done a size comparison? 
 

295 or 305 are the common go to. 285 would provide a bit of stretch to help with rubbing. 
 

I do not own 24s but just trying to help out

Posted

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
46 minutes ago, formulaws6ramair said:

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 

What rims are those?  They’re nice!

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 4:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

Posted
10 minutes ago, KriptiK said:

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

I’m in the process of buying 24’s.  I think it all depends on the wheels backspacing if they’ll fit without rubbing.  

Posted
What rims are those?  They’re nice!
24x10 DUB Skillz. My plan was to powdercoat these black and use on the Silverado. Unfortunately they don't clear the fluid crossover on the front caliper. Sucks cause they were pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 9:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

shell4.thumb.jpg.04de863dc00a24454bd78b0235a47f59.jpg

 

285/35/24 4/6 DROP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

Posted
21 minutes ago, Jacob Moody said:

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

The beauty of dropped spindles is they have zero effect on travel and little on alignment while maintaining factory half shaft angles. If you topping out that is a dampening issue IF the spring rate has the damper at near mid stroke. Spindles nothing to do with the dampening. 

 

Out back you have to have the room for compression to use the compression. It its skipping about again wrong dampening. 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,245 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...