Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
33 minutes ago, Car Dude said:

So if the rings are not installed the result would be a 2" drop or so?

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Posted
On 1/20/2021 at 2:59 PM, 808 HI said:

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Posted
1 hour ago, Car Dude said:

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Bob ? If the belltech struts are still produced like they were few years back then I believe the ride quality will be worse than stock. Bilsteins are the only aftermarket struts that Ive read nothing but good reviews. Before doing this I would have to get both struts and do some comparison to see if the mounts are the same, from pictures they do. 

Posted

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

285/40 or 285/35 might give you what you are looking for, have you done a size comparison? 
 

295 or 305 are the common go to. 285 would provide a bit of stretch to help with rubbing. 
 

I do not own 24s but just trying to help out

Posted

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
46 minutes ago, formulaws6ramair said:

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 

What rims are those?  They’re nice!

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 4:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

Posted
10 minutes ago, KriptiK said:

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

I’m in the process of buying 24’s.  I think it all depends on the wheels backspacing if they’ll fit without rubbing.  

Posted
What rims are those?  They’re nice!
24x10 DUB Skillz. My plan was to powdercoat these black and use on the Silverado. Unfortunately they don't clear the fluid crossover on the front caliper. Sucks cause they were pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 9:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

shell4.thumb.jpg.04de863dc00a24454bd78b0235a47f59.jpg

 

285/35/24 4/6 DROP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

Posted
21 minutes ago, Jacob Moody said:

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

The beauty of dropped spindles is they have zero effect on travel and little on alignment while maintaining factory half shaft angles. If you topping out that is a dampening issue IF the spring rate has the damper at near mid stroke. Spindles nothing to do with the dampening. 

 

Out back you have to have the room for compression to use the compression. It its skipping about again wrong dampening. 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,454 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yea a fluid change is in order here. Honestly, your transmission didn’t even get hot. During the summer in stop and go traffic I’ve seen my 8l80 get up to 216 and it was still shifting smoothly. 
    • I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...