Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
33 minutes ago, Car Dude said:

So if the rings are not installed the result would be a 2" drop or so?

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Posted
On 1/20/2021 at 2:59 PM, 808 HI said:

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Posted
1 hour ago, Car Dude said:

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Bob ? If the belltech struts are still produced like they were few years back then I believe the ride quality will be worse than stock. Bilsteins are the only aftermarket struts that Ive read nothing but good reviews. Before doing this I would have to get both struts and do some comparison to see if the mounts are the same, from pictures they do. 

Posted

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

285/40 or 285/35 might give you what you are looking for, have you done a size comparison? 
 

295 or 305 are the common go to. 285 would provide a bit of stretch to help with rubbing. 
 

I do not own 24s but just trying to help out

Posted

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
46 minutes ago, formulaws6ramair said:

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 

What rims are those?  They’re nice!

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 4:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

Posted
10 minutes ago, KriptiK said:

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

I’m in the process of buying 24’s.  I think it all depends on the wheels backspacing if they’ll fit without rubbing.  

Posted
What rims are those?  They’re nice!
24x10 DUB Skillz. My plan was to powdercoat these black and use on the Silverado. Unfortunately they don't clear the fluid crossover on the front caliper. Sucks cause they were pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 9:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

shell4.thumb.jpg.04de863dc00a24454bd78b0235a47f59.jpg

 

285/35/24 4/6 DROP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

Posted
21 minutes ago, Jacob Moody said:

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

The beauty of dropped spindles is they have zero effect on travel and little on alignment while maintaining factory half shaft angles. If you topping out that is a dampening issue IF the spring rate has the damper at near mid stroke. Spindles nothing to do with the dampening. 

 

Out back you have to have the room for compression to use the compression. It its skipping about again wrong dampening. 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,477 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...