Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What are owners of the 2500 gas Customs getting for gas mileage in City, Highway and Towing travel trailers and campers etc????

TIA

Posted

Not custom but LT. I’m averaging around 12 on short runs. Best of 19.9 on longer trips. Real world I’d say don’t expect much over 14 average. Towing my 5th wheel camper was around 9.9 

Posted

yeah trim wouldnt make huge difference.....

 

mine in city is pretty bad but it loves the highway......8mpg around town...on highway ive seen 22mpg but avg 18-20

have LT as well

Posted

Drove mine cross country and back when I first got it, about 7k miles on that trip. Averaged 17.7 

current mostly local driving averaging about 14

Posted

Rolling empty on the highway at 80, 15.  Local rural driving mid 14s.  Have not yet towed, look forward to camping and boating with it though.  only 1300 mi. on truck so far.

Posted

NY to SC and back going 70-80 got 15.8 according to the truck electronics.  I didn't keep track of the actual gas input.

Posted

great.  awesome.  i have a 2016 2500hd crew with the 6.0 and i was dead set on keeping it forever.

 

 then you freaking jerks come around bragging about your obscenely economical fuel economy and now I’m building and pricing a new truck every three hours!

 

kidding.  but, in all seriousness, the numbers here are significantly better than i see in my six point slow .. average 12.5 in mixed driving with a best of 16 on a long, slow country drive in the summer.

 

sounds like he 6.6 is a great engine.

Posted

I had your exact truck prior to the 20' ,the honest hand calculated difference is about 1 to 1.5 mpg better on hwy. Too many variables to make an honest comparison for in town driving unless they where done simultaneously . I believe the difference in town is .5 mpg maybe? Towing 12k fiver the difference is also about.5 mpg. It does however tow more effortlessly in comparison.

  • Like 1
Posted

A slight MPG increase sounds realistic over a 6.0, but nothing earth shattering when dealing with a big heavy truck.  However the power and torque have increased quite a bit so it should perform better with heavy loads.

Posted

Nobody that buys a pickup truck cares about "fuel economy". Drive it, enjoy it then fill it up and rinse & repeat. When gasoline makes it to $7.00 a gallon that may actually bother a few but certainly not all.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, MORSNO said:

A slight MPG increase sounds realistic over a 6.0, but nothing earth shattering when dealing with a big heavy truck.  However the power and torque have increased quite a bit so it should perform better with heavy loads.

 

They've gained a good bit of weight too over K2 and especially GMT-900.  Power may be up but so is weight.  The 6.6 in the K2s would have ripped.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, It's Tim said:

Nobody that buys a pickup truck cares about "fuel economy". Drive it, enjoy it then fill it up and rinse & repeat. When gasoline makes it to $7.00 a gallon that may actually bother a few but certainly not all.

it’s not so much a question of whether to own a truck, but which truck to own.  for instance, if a 6.6 gets 2 mpg better than my 6.0, that’s about $600 per year or $4200 savings over seven years.  If it only gets .5 mpg, that’s closer to 1k over seven years.

 

You’re damned right I think about the impact of four grand on a financial decision such as buying a new truck.  Just like running the numbers when you refinance a house or put in a new heat pump or furnace - understanding the math on each financial decision you make can make a big difference over a lifetime.

Edited by i82much
Posted

Still not worth freting over when you have to run the numbers out to seven years, inflation will have eaten your savings. Either a person needs a truck and they buy it for that purpose or people buy a truck to be broke and stylish. The stylers will be the first to run away when gasoline hits $4.00 a gallon. Notice for instance on this website alone if anyone posts a picture of their dash the fuel gauge is always ever so slightly above "walk". Better to drive a vehicle one can run down to a third of a tank then fill it back up without worrying about the cost of fuel. JMHO.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,347 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...