Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

how does it work at Laura....

 

do you pay local sales tax and than make up difference plus registration back home....live in Ca

i will always be higher than anywhere in country, lol (10.25%)

 

Posted

If I Buy A Car In Another State Where Do I Pay Sales Tax? (autolist.com)

Quote

 

If I Buy a Car in Another State, Where Do I Pay Sales Tax?

 

Typically, when you buy a car in a different state than where you reside, the car dealer collects your sales tax at the time of purchase and sends it to your home state's relevant agency. That way, you do not have to deal with the fuss of trying to follow each state's unique tax laws. Before the Department of Motor Vehicles in your home state will register your new vehicle, they may check the bill of sale to ensure you paid the sales tax, so you should not try to skimp on paying it.

 

 

Posted

I bought my new truck in Indiana.  The dealer handled the title  ,Licensing and taxes. The forms where Kentucky.. the taxes and fees we paid were Kentucky. Not Indiana.. So my Assumption would be you pay the taxes for the State you are going to licenses the Truck in.. Vehicle taxes  are not the same as state sales taxes. they are USAGE to pay for roads , police and so on ...  Its how i think it works here anyway.  

 

You will have to take the truck to your home state / county  Sheriff office to have a  out of state  inspection at time of registration or before. 

 

 

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, John Sarappa said:

Exactly what Sailor said is how Laura handles it.

yeah thats what i got as well, he called today

 

some dealers take care of it and some dealers dont, just wasnt sure what they did, however the salesman did say i pay tax in illinois and then they send that back to me to pay my state plus what i owe on top...either way its fine just wasnt sure, maybe heading to st louie and see my brother on way back....be nice trip.....

 

thanks

Edited by Dunn
Posted

My last 4 car purchases were done out of state. If you do some research you can find the paperwork your state will need. Take it to the out of state dealership. They'll handle it. They should be able to roll your state's tax, title, licensing fees, etc into your loan if you finance your purchase.

There are situations, like active duty military, where your home state will waive taxes and/or fees. That'll be a fight/headache with the dealership. If you fall into this category, be sure to have a point of contact at your state's agency that you can provide to the dealership.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Be sure it has California emissions if you buy it new there. My Cheyenne from Tijuana has the 5.3 V8 and it's already California, but I don't know about the others.

Used cars with more than 7,500 miles are exempt though.. but the DMV will look at the new pink slip and know if you're the original owner so don't try to drive around for 7,500 miles before bringing it in.

Just the sticker under the hood will suffice.. if it says "California" - you're good to go. I've bought 50-state emission vehicles and know people who won a car in Vegas and could not register their new cars in California. It was only five years ago so don't assume all cars are 50-state.

Posted
1 hour ago, Wiggums said:

Be sure it has California emissions if you buy it new there. My Cheyenne from Tijuana has the 5.3 V8 and it's already California, but I don't know about the others.

Used cars with more than 7,500 miles are exempt though.. but the DMV will look at the new pink slip and know if you're the original owner so don't try to drive around for 7,500 miles before bringing it in.

Just the sticker under the hood will suffice.. if it says "California" - you're good to go. I've bought 50-state emission vehicles and know people who won a car in Vegas and could not register their new cars in California. It was only five years ago so don't assume all cars are 50-state.

GM has about four or five different emissions codes.  My truck has the FE9 code, which is federal emissions.  But supposedly all trucks meet the emissions requirements for all states, so not sure what impact that emissions code has on registering a vehicle in Cali. 

Posted

i will be financing but thru my CU.....check on CA emission, I thought that all were at this point but ill check.....be nice to eveything done there but its fine.......thanks for tip......never bought out of state

 

about a 5-6k difference between here locally and there so far......pretty substantial

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, AlaskaErik said:

GM has about four or five different emissions codes.  My truck has the FE9 code, which is federal emissions.  But supposedly all trucks meet the emissions requirements for all states, so not sure what impact that emissions code has on registering a vehicle in Cali. 

FE9 code does NOT meet California's code, I promise you that. It will not be registered if you are the original owner and a resident of California.

However, if it was purchased used with over 7,500 miles, it can be registered in California.

Edited by Wiggums
Posted

Thinking outside of the box, you could always obtain duel state citizenship. But some land in a nearby state and register, title, and get license plates for your truck in that state. This would save you a chunk of change in taxes to justify and offset the land acquisition. I'm eyeballing an area where an acre is $1,000 right now.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I believe California goes back six months. And if he's got another state to register in, then that'd be great. I have Mexican plates and Mexican citizenship, but cops still pull me over regularly here in California to make sure I do not live here.

 

The thing is I also own a house in Dana Point so that kind of complicates things.

And you cannot own more than two driving licenses at once. I know that because I was required to give up my CA driver's license for a NV one so I cancelled that. However, I do have Baja California and California.

Posted

nah i dont have another state to register.....think even po boxes dont qualify anymore?.......lived in D.P. ( selva rd) and San Clemente ( Pico ave) for years, loved it down there btw......I wont get into Drivers license issues, lol

Posted
11 hours ago, Wiggums said:

FE9 code does NOT meet California's code, I promise you that. It will not be registered if you are the original owner and a resident of California.

However, if it was purchased used with over 7,500 miles, it can be registered in California.

It was purchased new by me in Alaska.  And I guarantee you I will never be a resident of California.  Never.  Ever.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...