Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I know this has been covered in many other threads,  and that the truck pulses the lights every several seconds as part of the trailer security feature. Mine does that too. But it will then start to flash much more rapidly. Like multiple times per second. See attached video. Anyone else have this happen and know what causes it?

Edited by bamorris2
Posted

It's flashing your clearance lights and taillights. I would guess a wiring issue? Have you tried a test light on the back of your truck to make sure that it's right?
If so, than it's on the trailer side of things.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, sldhead700 said:

It's flashing your clearance lights and taillights. I would guess a wiring issue? Have you tried a test light on the back of your truck to make sure that it's right?
If so, than it's on the trailer side of things.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Yes all of the power sources are getting proper power. It only does this when the truck is parked and off. It stops just by unlocking the truck or starting it up. All of the trailer lights work perfectly otherwise. 

Posted
Yes all of the power sources are getting proper power. It only does this when the truck is parked and off. It stops just by unlocking the truck or starting it up. All of the trailer lights work perfectly otherwise. 
Ohh..... Beyond my experience.
I'll be watching to see what you find, hopefully others will have the answer!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I know this has been covered in many other threads,  and that the truck pulses the lights every several seconds as part of the trailer security feature. Mine does that too. But it will then start to flash much more rapidly. Like multiple times per second. See attached video. Anyone else have this happen and know what causes it?

Any updates, was the tech bulletins from rst helpful? Just curious.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted

Mine will flash rapidly several times per second if I lock my truck by pressing the button on the outside of the door handle. However it will act completely normal if I use the key fob to lock the truck. Not sure of why it acts differently but it is 100% repetable like that. Only the brake/tail lights flash rapidly 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Part is $233.87.     Not sure where $900 came from?  
    • Looks like you have it figured out. Did you run a sensor into the rear diff housing?    What sort of diff temp swings would you see towing or not? I have wondered how hot it can get 
    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...