Stainless Works true dual set up

[Robby James]

Gents, I really want to get all I can out of my truck without killing the warranty, hence I have to stay behind the cats and no headers for me sadly.

These look really good and are made here in the USA out of 304 stainless for less than $1200 bucks, and with a custom cut and get rid of the pancaked section coming over from the drivers side under the tranny pan I feel a 3"  true dual all the way may be just the ticket.

I looked at some less expensive non 304 stainless and 2.5" systems but 2.5 to 3" seems to be a HUGE power difference for $400 difference I feel these are a better value.

( I generally am a buy once cry once kind of guy)

Any thoughts or input?

Thanks Gents.

https://stainlessworks.net/exhaust-2019-silverado/

 

[Diamond817]

Never mind my first statement. 

 

How do you connect the performance version? Do you have to cut up the stock system near the cats?

Edited April 4, 2021 by Diamond817

[Robby James]

It looks like you have to have that flattened piece cut off and a new piece ran over from the drivers side up under the tranny pan and cut where both pipes come together as one.

You could hook it up entirely to the stock system but then it is NOT a true dual system which Is what I want.

I also plan on using a Stillen along with a CAI for a TRUE cold air intake, I am hoping to get a stock dyno run this week before any mods and then run the truck again with just the exhaust and then adding the CAI and then the stillen and see what REALLY works.

Cheers

[IrritableVet]

A word of warning for whatever it's worth. I have stainless works and have been a faithful SW parts guy for a while. But having recently found that they outsource to china for some of the manufacturing and seeing how my fitments have either gotten worse or head scratching at best. Leaves me to think getting another set of headers and mid's for my truck already as it's procharged. I would heavily weigh your need for a true 3 inch dual setup. I made close to the same between stock and headers even compensating for the PSI loss that the headers would give. Grab a set of Kooks and Mid's. IMO

[Robby James]

2 hours ago, IrritableVet said:

A word of warning for whatever it's worth. I have stainless works and have been a faithful SW parts guy for a while. But having recently found that they outsource to china for some of the manufacturing and seeing how my fitments have either gotten worse or head scratching at best. Leaves me to think getting another set of headers and mid's for my truck already as it's procharged. I would heavily weigh your need for a true 3 inch dual setup. I made close to the same between stock and headers even compensating for the PSI loss that the headers would give. Grab a set of Kooks and Mid's. IMO

I appreciate the input. their website specifically states made in Ohio by US workers.

WTH?

I am thinking less restriction = more breathing = more power.

I may do more research but definitely getting rid of the pancaked pipe from the drivers side and the HUGE muffler and flapper valve.

That is cheap and must help to some degree.

Thanks

[Gangly]

The flattened pipe has shown to have little affect on exhaust flow since the volume of the flattened pipe is near equal to the volume of the non flattened sections: narrow but tall oval vs round.  I would have to search for them to find them again, but there are multiple dyno pulls with varying headers and y-pipes showing this.

[Robby James]

1 hour ago, Gangly said:

The flattened pipe has shown to have little affect on exhaust flow since the volume of the flattened pipe is near equal to the volume of the non flattened sections: narrow but tall oval vs round.  I would have to search for them to find them again, but there are multiple dyno pulls with varying headers and y-pipes showing this.

Very interesting, and visually it seems like a restrictive design, albeit I am not doubting the validity of your statement.

If you do come up with any addl. info I would enjoy perusing it as I am looking to increase performance as much as possible without killing my warranty as my truck is new of course.

Thank you for your input.

Cheers

[TheTicketTX]

Just curious, but why go 3" for the increase in power if you are not going to go headers and custom tune? To me that seems the only reason why I would go 3".... Otherwise you're not getting the full potential from it. I would think going 2.5" true dual would be a little cheaper and be what you're looking for. But, what do I know? Haha, im not the smartest guy on here. Someone will know better prob

[Robby James]

8 hours ago, TheTicketTX said:

Just curious, but why go 3" for the increase in power if you are not going to go headers and custom tune? To me that seems the only reason why I would go 3".... Otherwise you're not getting the full potential from it. I would think going 2.5" true dual would be a little cheaper and be what you're looking for. But, what do I know? Haha, im not the smartest guy on here. Someone will know better prob

Headers and tune would kill my drivetrain warranty I believe that is why not planning on that route.

2.5" to 3" showed a HUGE difference in gains on a video I watched on youtube Motor Trend channel and very little price difference really.

 

 

[aliveguy5]

They are also talking about jamming 620hp vs. 420hp through the same space. As you put more power in the motor 3' will yield more power. If you don't plan to add anymore power in the vehicle both options will be fine for you. Also remember this engine is tuned to take advantage of the new flow as well. 

[Robby James]

1 hour ago, aliveguy5 said:

They are also talking about jamming 620hp vs. 420hp through the same space. As you put more power in the motor 3' will yield more power. If you don't plan to add anymore power in the vehicle both options will be fine for you. Also remember this engine is tuned to take advantage of the new flow as well. 

Agreed, I live right by Black Bear Performance and plan on  a dyno tune once the code is cracked. I am trying to avoid the ECU swap away from the factory one and I don't believe that 3" pipes will be detrimental in any way and will likely carry on through a cam and some other upgrades as the truck ages.

I just found a Borla S type though that I may grab as it is   a great price right now and do more exhaust work later on.

Cheers

[newdude]

Exhaust Pipe Shaped to Avoid Low Contact – TechLink (gm-techlink.com)

 

 

3 inch for a "true dual" is too big.  Its a 376 cubic inch small block, not a 454 big block fire breather.  You still need "some" backpressure.  Velocity is more important.     

 

Edited April 20, 2021 by newdude

[Robby James]

21 minutes ago, newdude said:

Exhaust Pipe Shaped to Avoid Low Contact – TechLink (gm-techlink.com)

 

 

3 inch for a "true dual" is too big.  Its a 376 cubic inch small block, not a 454 big block fire breather.  You still need "some" backpressure.  Velocity is more important.     

 

I believe that "back pressure" has been debunked, the guys that make these exhausts for a living must have learned some things even if by accident.

I do appreciate any and all input though.

Will know about the type S Borla today.

Still going to Dyno before and after and THEN add a CAI and dyno again to see if these combined actually do anything in the real World.

Cheers

[Robby James]

29 minutes ago, newdude said:

Exhaust Pipe Shaped to Avoid Low Contact – TechLink (gm-techlink.com)

 

 

3 inch for a "true dual" is too big.  Its a 376 cubic inch small block, not a 454 big block fire breather.  You still need "some" backpressure.  Velocity is more important.     

 

I appreciate the link!

Looks bad glad to hear it is not, this truck still will not see any real offroading but that is great info.

Thanks again

[youngss]

On 4/20/2021 at 9:56 AM, Robby James said:

 

Will know about the type S Borla today.

Still going to Dyno before and after and THEN add a CAI and dyno again to see if these combined actually do anything in the real World.

Cheers

Update on this yet? Looking at Type S and ATAK and CAI soon for 2021 TB 6.2L.