Jump to content

6.6l Gasser

Robby23
 Share

Recommended Posts

Robby23 New Member

Robby23

Posted
Posted

Looking at going from my 2019 5.3L silverado to the 6.6L gasser. I am getting rid of my truck to go crew cab either way just interested in the 6.6. Just looking for real world experience with it. Biggest thing I will be hauling is a 20' 10k dual axle open car trailer with a roughly 3600 lb vehichle on it for drag strip days. Will be a daily for my wife but she drives about 2 miles to work. So it will basically just be for my drag car on a trailer and side by side/quad/dirt bike hauler going up north here in Michigan. Relatively flat roads here.

nards444 Senior Enthusiast

nards444

Posted
Posted

might want to check the diesel vs gas forum lol.  Guess it depends on how many times you haul that thing and how far.  13k plus is a lot of weight. 

 

Options may change the numbers some but for a crew cab gas is good for 14,500 and Diesel is 18k. 

  • Sad 1
Robby23 New Member

Robby23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I should clarify the trailer is 10k axles idk actual weight of it would guess 2k. So 5600 total weight for car and trailer. 

nards444 Senior Enthusiast

nards444

Posted
Posted
32 minutes ago, Robby23 said:

I should clarify the trailer is 10k axles idk actual weight of it would guess 2k. So 5600 total weight for car and trailer. 

 

yeah with that either would be fine. 

 

With that said I trailered a mustang 600 miles last fall with a half ton and didnt really know it was back there.  For that kind of weight and depending on you frequency  a bigger truck might be overkill

2011Chevy Enthusiast

2011Chevy

Posted
Posted

That short of a daily commute and that weight behind it is ideal for 6.6 gas truck.  it will do that very well.  
 

I wouldn’t consider a modern diesel as a daily if it was that short of a commute.  
The truck wouldn’t even reach operating temp, which creates a lot of DPF problems.   

maynard9089 Enthusiast

maynard9089

Posted
Posted

The mileage while towing will probably be similar to what the 1500 got towing but for day-to-day driving you will notice a big difference.  The tank on the 2500 is also much larger so expect the price at the pump to be a good bit more.  I went from an '18 1/2 ton Sierra to 1 '20 2500HD Crew and then a '21 2500HD.  I enjoy driving the larger truck more so I put up with the cost of the extra gas.

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

I would price out a 1/2 ton with the tow package vs the 2500 with the equipment you want and buy whichever is cheaper. A properly equipped 1/2 ton will tow that trailer without a problem too. If you need to load up the bed too while towing then obviously get the 2500. I would rather drive around a 1/2 ton but I need the payload of an HD.

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted

the 6.6 gasser will be just fine. then you won't have to deal with the potential diesel issues. I should have bought the gasser. I only tow a few times a year and maybe 10K max

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • DaleB
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By DaleB · Posted

      Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...