Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

[myrez]

Thanks for the replies guys.  I have the amp with no switches or aux jack.  I just sourced a used set up.  I'm going to test hooking up the current amp to the bass wires and see if I can make that work.  If it is indeed too much bass then I'll revert back to "stock" and hook up the used amp.  I'll run with that for a while and see how it sounds.  I'll most likely keep the "adjustable" amp installed with it hooked up to the bass wires.

[mtbadbob]

Like we've said, you'll be able to reduce the bass output with the factory head unit EQ if it's too much.

[myrez]

On 5/1/2024 at 9:41 PM, mtbadbob said:

Like we've said, you'll be able to reduce the bass output with the factory head unit EQ if it's too much.

 

I get it, I do.  I'm just stating this because Louie Foster mentioned it on page 7.  What gauge T taps if you don't mind?

[mtbadbob]

On 5/3/2024 at 12:03 PM, myrez said:

 

I get it, I do.  I'm just stating this because Louie Foster mentioned it on page 7.  What gauge T taps if you don't mind?

They come with the sub, I believe they're 16-20. I've used both the red & blue taps. The blue isn't as obtrusive to the wires as the reds. The majority of opinions is that it'll be fine, but don't expect absolute perfection. I've owned upper end car audio for 40+ years, fwiw...

Edited May 5, 2024 by mtbadbob

[Velocity12]

I know this is for the kicker sub but I did this same method for my install. Tapped into the Bose subwoofer speaker wires for my JL 12” Power Wedge. Just connected those wires straight to the high inputs on the amp. It sounded decent but I could tell the Bose amp was reducing the output and canceling certain bass notes. Had to add an Audiocontrol LC2i to restore the bass that wasn’t being sent to the subwoofer. It’s much better now. This might not be as noticeable on the kicker setup though. I had the kicker set up wired in a different (older) truck and I didn’t really notice it. The new trucks might be reducing sounds more. 

[ClaytonIV]

Hi, if I want to have a stereo shop do the GM Kicker sub install you mentioned what do I tell them to do? Does this apply to a 2022 Sierra Denali 3500 with Bose?

Edited November 10, 2024 by ClaytonIV

[mtbadbob]

21 hours ago, ClaytonIV said:

Hi, if I want to have a stereo shop do the GM Kicker sub install you mentioned what do I tell them to do? Does this apply to a 2022 Sierra Denali 3500 with Bose?

Yes, it is for the Denali with Bose. Just tell the shop to tap into sub feed wires instead of the rt front channel speaker feeds as the instructions suggest. 

[J-Rock28]

I just ordered the Kicker Hideaway 10" powered sub for my 2024 AT4 with Bose. I know that I can remove the rear seatback and use the speaker wires from the Bose amp, but where are you guys sourcing power? Is everyone just running up the passenger side to the battery? Thanks!

Edited November 27, 2024 by J-Rock28
Typo

[mtbadbob]

16 hours ago, J-Rock28 said:

I just ordered the Kicker Hideaway 10" powered sub for my 2024 AT4 with Bose. I know that I can remove the rear seatback and use the speaker wires from the Bose amp, but where are you guys sourcing power? Is everyone just running up the passenger side to the battery? Thanks!

Is it the GM 19417164 sub? If so, it'll have all the wiring needed. You do need to feed power through the firewall grommet & to the power block near the battery. I suppose you could possible tap power off the Bose amp, but Kicker wants that sub on it's own circuit/fuse. Several of us have just been taping into the factory sub feed wires, instead of the rt channel as the instructions say. I guess you could just tap right out of the amp, but I tapped at the front passenger sill where the sub wires branch off, that way I can just remove the sill cover and access my taps/connections right there if I ever need to. 

[steveHey]

I am planning to add a sub and amp to my 2023 (refresh) with the Bose system. I am not using the Kicker setup since I got a good deal from Skar Audio. 
 

that being said, everything I have seen suggests tapping into to door speakers. But according to this, there is a sub wire within the console that is a better option. Will this be the case with the refresh truck and a non kicker sub? I assume so, but just want to make sure since I am a novice here. Thank goodness for YouTube 

[MrLeadFoot]

9 hours ago, steveHey said:

I am planning to add a sub and amp to my 2023 (refresh) with the Bose system. I am not using the Kicker setup since I got a good deal from Skar Audio. 
 

that being said, everything I have seen suggests tapping into to door speakers. But according to this, there is a sub wire within the console that is a better option. Will this be the case with the refresh truck and a non kicker sub? I assume so, but just want to make sure since I am a novice here. Thank goodness for YouTube 

Please share which sub and amp you got, as I am interested in what you got. 

[steveHey]

14 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Please share which sub and amp you got, as I am interested in what you got. 

I got every from Skar Audio. I went with the VD10 and a box that’s specifically built for this truck. I am all in for $401 with amp, sub, box, wire kit and LOC. Now I just have to figure out how to wire it all up, LOL

 

On 7/30/2021 at 9:30 AM, Tjeli said:

Hey Everyone,

 

I'm posting this in this forum because it is specific to T1 trucks but the same principle can be applied to other years.

 

First of all I do consider myself an audiophile.  Not so much in vehicle systems but I don't want to add up how much time and money I have spent over the last 30 or so years searching for the perfect, limitless, balanced sound in my home systems.  If you would like to know what I run at home you can PM me.

 

Now on to the point.  I had some free GM accessory money to use up so I decided to give the Kicker sub upgrade a try.  It sounded "ok" and did make quite a bit of bass.  I would seem to get it dialed in for one type of music and then it would sound muddy and bloated on a different type.  It was also very heavy in the upper mid bass.  In case anyone was wondering what the DIP switches do for SURE on the Kicker amp here you go. (I measured them)  Switch 1,2 and 3 are gain.  There are 4 settings from all 3 down to all 3 up.  Switch 4 is the remote turn on selection.  Switch 5 turns the crossover on or off.  Switch 6 adjusts the slope of the crossover from 24db (on) to 12db (off).  I firmly believe that the way Kicker ships these is the proper setting for our trucks. (1,4,5 and 6 up and 2 and 3 down)

 

One thing that really bothered me about the install of the Kicker sub is that they are pulling their input signal from the right front speaker only.  Does the Bose system have a high pass roll off programmed into that channel?  What about music that has bass dedicated to the left channel only?  What happens when you start to overdrive that channel in the Bose amp?

 

Say what you will about Bose but one thing they do well is "tuning" a system in a vehicle so that it sounds good at all volume levels to the majority of people.  Read that sentence again.  This is all done with a LOT of eq, monitoring the amp channels for compression and clipping and attenuating certain frequency ranges at higher volume levels.  The result is a system that plays loud and sounds "decent" for the majority of consumers while staying within the budget given to them by the auto manufacturer.

 

Enough rambling.  After a bunch of digging I found the wires that run to the factory Bose sub.  I tapped these for the input to the Kicker amp.  To my ears it sounds 100 times better.  Much more balanced at all volume levels and with all types of music.  It is cleaner and hits harder with less overhang.  It also plays bass from both channels now.  I really have to recommend this to anyone that has the Kicker sub upgrade.  Hit me up if you have questions.

 

-Eli

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fragrant_joe]

What’s the cheapest way to bypass, or mostly bypass, the Bose amp? Can you run everything other than the dash speakers through an aftermarket amp and just leave the dash speakers running through the Bose amp to keep turn signals and other audio?

 

It’s hard to stomach a $400-500 purchase just to bypass the factory amp.

[J-Rock28]

On 11/27/2024 at 7:34 AM, mtbadbob said:

Is it the GM 19417164 sub? If so, it'll have all the wiring needed. You do need to feed power through the firewall grommet & to the power block near the battery. I suppose you could possible tap power off the Bose amp, but Kicker wants that sub on it's own circuit/fuse. Several of us have just been taping into the factory sub feed wires, instead of the rt channel as the instructions say. I guess you could just tap right out of the amp, but I tapped at the front passenger sill where the sub wires branch off, that way I can just remove the sill cover and access my taps/connections right there if I ever need to. 

I didn't order the GM Kicker sub, I had that in my last truck. The Kicker Hideaway is a 10" powered sub box that is more universal. I'll probably try what you're describing, tapping into the wires at the passenger seat. I think I'll feel better running power to the battery rather than stealing from the Bose amp. Thanks!

[Aircraft800]

Here is an old wiring diagram, but it looks to hold true to the 2024s. Also as far as speakers and polarity.