Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have 2020 Silverado Custom Double Cab with the stock speakers.  Frankly they're junk so I ordered replacements from Crutchfield and am delighted with the result.  Attached is a photo of the truck.  I used Kenwood Excelon KFC-XC2C speakers in the dash and Sound Ordinance P67B speakers in the doors.  I also purchased all the installation parts that Crutchfield recommended.  My installer finished the job in less than two hours. The difference is amazing and for my purposes, I don't need an extra Amp because the speakers give me plenty of volume and a reasonable amount of base.  Also, the high notes are now outstanding.  

New Truck.jpg

 

Edited by Mac-427
  • Like 1
Posted

Just curious, why the mixed speakers?  I have my eye on the Kenwood Excelons myself, was thinking 7” component set in front, then the 7” 2 way speakers in the rear.

Posted (edited)

Great question?  Based on my limited knowledge, I just went with Crutchfields recommendation as to what would fit.  Below is the whole order:

 

Kenwood KFC-6966S Kenwood KFC-6966S 1 $69.99
Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C 1 $79.99
Posi-Products™ Car Speaker Connectors Posi-Products™ Car Speaker Connectors 1 $7.99
Sound Ordnance™ P-67B Sound Ordnance™ P-67B 1 $59.99
Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra 201 Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra 201 1 $0.00
American International SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness American International SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness 1 $0.00
Metra 82-3004 Speaker Mounting Brackets Metra 82-3004 Speaker Mounting Brackets 1 $0.00
Install Bay SPHKC Speaker Installation Kit Install Bay SPHKC Speaker Installation Kit 1 $5.00
American International SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness American International SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness 1 $0.00
Scosche SAGMHR-634 Speaker Mounting Brackets Scosche SAGMHR-634 Speaker Mounting Brackets 1 $0.00
    Subtotal: $222.96
    Sales tax (TX): $18.40
    Shipping: Free
    Order total $241.36
Edited by Mac-427
Posted (edited)

i went to crutchfield too, JL audios....I put speakers in all 4 doors but have yet to do dash, its a lil bit of improvement but really it needs quite a bit more....am sure tweeters make a difference and certain channels and stations are much more noticeable than others but i think it still needs an amp ( which stock speakers probably couldnt handle).......ill finish tweeters first and see.......its a lil better but not a whole lot.....was lil disappointed actually

 

i dont have the chevy custom but i do have a dbl cab

Edited by Dunn
Posted

Mac-427,

Thanks for this post. I know the stock speakers are just a little more than fillers for the holes in the doors and dash.

 

No need for a thumper but at this price an upgrade may be in the near future.

 

Thanks again for sharing !

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/14/2021 at 6:15 PM, Mac-427 said:

I have 2020 Silverado Custom Double Cab with the stock speakers.  Frankly they're junk so I ordered replacements from Crutchfield and am delighted with the result.  Attached is a photo of the truck.  I used Kenwood Excelon KFC-XC2C speakers in the dash and Sound Ordinance P67B speakers in the doors.  I also purchased all the installation parts that Crutchfield recommended.  My installer finished the job in less than two hours. The difference is amazing and for my purposes, I don't need an extra Amp because the speakers give me plenty of volume and a reasonable amount of base.  Also, the high notes are now outstanding.  

 

 

Just picked up a new 2021 AT4 yesterday and wanted to say thanks for posting your sound set up.  I was going to go crazy and do components, amps, etc. but decided I didn't want to do all that work and landed on just the speakers for now, pretty much following your lead.  Went for the same dash and front speakers and then grabbed 6.5" rear Kenwood Excelon's that look the same as the 6x9's you got.  For those interested on the rears:

Item #1131666S
 
Have installed many a sound system in my younger days so planning to install myself.  Lots of YouTube videos that show how to remove the door panels, dash speaker, etc.  Watched a few to prepare.
 
Anyway, big thanks and will report back with my thoughts!
Posted

I changed all of my speakers out as I could still listen to the factory stereo through them until I added my amp and I have to say I noticed a difference in the audio but nothing that impressed me. I used good quality stuff as well.  The rear door speakers are just pathetic no matter what speaker you put there. The factory system just isn't giving them any power or signal. Fade it all the way to the back and listen, its a joke.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I finished installing everything and am quite happy with the end result for the price.  I installed the doors first and listened to that for a few days then did the dash speakers, glad I got those as they seemed to make a big difference.  One note, it seems like I need to turn the volume up higher to achieve the same volume levels as before but no big deal, listening volume for me seems to be about half way across, occasionally turn it up higher when my kids ask.  Overall excellent results for fairly cheap speakers and no amp upgrade, I'd recommend this setup and probably won't change anything.

Posted
3 hours ago, Gray_AT4 said:

I finished installing everything and am quite happy with the end result for the price.  I installed the doors first and listened to that for a few days then did the dash speakers, glad I got those as they seemed to make a big difference.  One note, it seems like I need to turn the volume up higher to achieve the same volume levels as before but no big deal, listening volume for me seems to be about half way across, occasionally turn it up higher when my kids ask.  Overall excellent results for fairly cheap speakers and no amp upgrade, I'd recommend this setup and probably won't change anything.

I noticed the same thing, may have something to do with the change in Ohms of the doors and dash speakers from the factory since they are fed off the same line?

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,912
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RangerRick17
    Newest Member
    RangerRick17
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 608 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...