Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT, I started using synthetic amsoil about 2 years ago, I just checked the oil and had to add 3 quarts of oil, it takes 6 quarts for an oil change with the filter, the check engine light did not come on, could this have possibly done some damage to the engine?

Posted

The check engine light will never come on. And those trucks do not have low oil level sensors either. It's pretty much up to you to find out the oil level and keep track of it.

 

It didn't do any damage if you never lost oil pressure. There would be a warning for that. I've seen trucks come in with 2 quarts in the system and they still ran fine. From now on you will want to track your oil level every 500 miles or so to see if this is starting to become a problem.

 

Could be a AFM/DoD issue. Oil getting past the valve seals or come past the piston rings. A easy check would be to pull the spark plugs and see if any of them are oil covered or have the looks of oil burning. Could also try an oil additive to see if that helps with oil burning, I know Liqui Moly makes a few oil additives that they say help with oil consumption and extra lubrication for metal parts.

  • Like 1
Posted

The first thing I did when I noticed it was low was check the oil pressure and it was fine, I never had a light or any warning for low oil pressure.

About a year ago I made this post I made on a different forum:

 

https://www.truckforums.com/forum/chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-forum-11/change-full-synthetic-now-burning-oil-22886/


4419 miles used 2.5 quarts of oil. < this was a year ago.

4872 miles used 3 quarts of oil < this was from last oil change to now and there is 29% life left on the oil monitor.

I only put about 5k miles a year on the truck.

Before switching to full synthetic, this truck never used a drop of oil.

Posted (edited)

I have 2 inputs on this. 

(1)  Years back, in the late 70s - early 80s Amsoil was being promoted by people I knew that got in on the "Amway-type" sales structure.  I had a  beautiful baby blue, 1980 T-top Thunderbird I bought and put Amsoil in the 302 engine.  It was suppose to last 25,000 miles.  After a lot of miles, but way less than 25k, I looked at the oil and it was black, very black, and down a quart or so.  I was shocked.  I pulled a small amount out and had its content tested.  That was 41 years ago so I've forgotten the report details but the one thing I remember that stuck out was the higher than normal level of chromium in the oil (rings) and the much higher level of silicon (dirt/grit).  I pulled it out and went to regular oil.  I got to thinking, the oil itself may have been good for 25k miles, but the grit and chromium was just too high.  I don't let any brand stay in there for 25k miles anymore.  Amsoil may be much different and better today, I don't know.  Engines are a whole lot different, and better, than the old 302 of 1980. 

 

(2)  I had a 4.3 in a 94 GMC pickup I bought in '96 with 55k miles on it.  I used regular oil till it began using a little bit of oil (but not much).  I recalled what a mechanic friend of mine told me before, so I added STP to my next oil change.  He recommended it in every oil change.  I drove that truck for 19 years and never touched the engine -- all that time using STP in with each oil change.  It had 484k miles on it when I sold it.  Yes, someone bought it with that many miles.  All that time I used STP and conventional oil (Castrol).  But that was a different era engine and not like the engines today. Today, I do use synthetic in my 2011 GMC.  So, I kind of agree with CamGTP's recommendation about trying an additive (like STP) that definitely did stop oil consumption for me.  I know the mention of STP can open a whole new discussion amongst motor enthusiasts.  But it worked for me.  I "think" newer engines probably have higher, tighter specs so I don't know how it will work in newer engines I don't know.  But it certainly worked for me then and did a super job.

 

By the way, I have a 2011 GMC also.  5.3 engine.  I am just letting the dealership change my oil now because of my age and don't want to get under there anymore.  They're using the Dexos full synthetic.  136k miles, no consumption.

Edited by Jworks
  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, Twodose said:

The first thing I did when I noticed it was low was check the oil pressure and it was fine, I never had a light or any warning for low oil pressure.

About a year ago I made this post I made on a different forum:

 

https://www.truckforums.com/forum/chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-forum-11/change-full-synthetic-now-burning-oil-22886/


4419 miles used 2.5 quarts of oil. < this was a year ago.

4872 miles used 3 quarts of oil < this was from last oil change to now and there is 29% life left on the oil monitor.

I only put about 5k miles a year on the truck.

Before switching to full synthetic, this truck never used a drop of oil.

I’ve had two oil users from new. One qt every 2500 miles. Surprisingly one was a Ford truck the other was a Z-28. After driving the Ford 20K miles I put a super charger on it no change. I did the oil dance no change. They both went about 130k before I sold them. Of course non had cylinder deactivation which adds another wrinkle. I had another hot rod truck that used more oil. 14 years later still going. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Jworks said:

I have 2 inputs on this. 

(1)  Years back, in the late 70s - early 80s Amsoil was being promoted by people I knew that got in on the "Amway-type" sales structure.  I had a  beautiful baby blue, 1980 T-top Thunderbird I bought and put Amsoil in the 302 engine.  It was suppose to last 25,000 miles.  After a lot of miles, but way less than 25k, I looked at the oil and it was black, very black, and down a quart or so.  I was shocked.  I pulled a small amount out and had its content tested.  That was 41 years ago so I've forgotten the report details but the one thing I remember that stuck out was the higher than normal level of chromium in the oil (rings) and the much higher level of silicon (dirt/grit).  I pulled it out and went to regular oil.  I got to thinking, the oil itself may have been good for 25k miles, but the grit and chromium was just too high.  I don't let any brand stay in there for 25k miles anymore.  Amsoil may be much different and better today, I don't know.  Engines are a whole lot different, and better, than the old 302 of 1980. 

 

(2)  I had a 4.3 in a 94 GMC pickup I bought in '96 with 55k miles on it.  I used regular oil till it began using a little bit of oil (but not much).  I recalled what a mechanic friend of mine told me before, so I added STP to my next oil change.  He recommended it in every oil change.  I drove that truck for 19 years and never touched the engine -- all that time using STP in with each oil change.  It had 484k miles on it when I sold it.  Yes, someone bought it with that many miles.  All that time I used STP and conventional oil (Castrol).  But that was a different era engine and not like the engines today. Today, I do use synthetic in my 2011 GMC.  So, I kind of agree with CamGTP's recommendation about trying an additive (like STP) that definitely did stop oil consumption for me.  I know the mention of STP can open a whole new discussion amongst motor enthusiasts.  But it worked for me.  I "think" newer engines probably have higher, tighter specs so I don't know how it will work in newer engines I don't know.  But it certainly worked for me then and did a super job.

In the early days of Amsoil they recommended using their flush before changing to their oil. Something we all did switching from conventional to synthetic. Before synthetics we used slick 50 and STP. Both claimed to help with cold starts. Another benefit with synthetic.

Posted

I don't think you have any damage.  AFM/DoD as I understand can lead to issue with oil consumption.  One thing you can try is go back to the oil you used previously since you said it didn't use it.  See what happens.  There are several factors as CamGTP pointed out that can lead to oil consumption. 

 

Also with the AFM/DoD what I have read is if you do more hwy driving the issue is worse for consumption because the system is active and shuts down cylinders causing the consumption for some reason.  But those that do a lot of city driving where it isn't in play they don't have any consumption issues. Again, this is from what I have read others have experienced.

 

How many miles total are on the truck?

 

Posted

I bought Amsoil Engine and Transmission Flush but haven't used it yet, I will try on this oil change.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

How many miles total are on the truck?

83,600.

 

Edited by Twodose
edit
Posted

Do the Range afm/dfm disabler's work?

I never thought the 8-6-4 was a good idea, my father 40 years ago bought a new cadillac that had that when it first came out, they had nothing but problems with it. 

Posted (edited)

Its not from the oil.  Its not from AFM either.  The AFM system doesn't cause oil consumption.    

 

I would do an oil consumption test.  Change it, 6 fresh quarts and a filter back in.  Drive it 2000mi while monitoring the dipstick over that time.  I would then drain the oil and measure how much you drain out at that 2000mi mark. 

 

If more than 1 quart is missing in that timeframe, start with a new driver's side valve cover see if it improves it.  If you see no improvement in consumption, you can try GM top engine cleaner soak of the cylinders.  If that doesn't reduce it?  Pistons and rings.   

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

My 2021 6.2 has used 1qt in 3300 miles total mile on it now. I did my first change was at 1500. I always run in 9th gear around town (so no cylinder de-activation) and only go to 10th on the highway over 65mph.

Edited by WeGone
Posted
1 minute ago, WeGone said:

My 2021 6.2 has used 1qt in 3300 miles. I did my first change was at 1500. I always run in 9th gear around town (so no cylinder de-activation) and only go to 10th on the highway over 65mph.

 

 

Normal for a new engine to potentially consume during break-in.  Rings are seating in that period.  Also, your 5.3 and OP's 5.3 are quite different engines.  

  • Like 2
Posted
8 minutes ago, newdude said:

Its not from the oil.  Its not from AFM either.  The AFM system doesn't cause oil consumption.    

 

I would do an oil consumption test.  Change it, 6 fresh quarts and a filter back in.  Drive it 2000mi while monitoring the dipstick over that time.  I would then drain the oil and measure how much you drain out at that 2000mi mark. 

 

If more than 1 quart is missing in that timeframe, start with a new driver's side valve cover see if it improves it.  If you see no improvement in consumption, you can try GM top engine cleaner soak of the cylinders.  If that doesn't reduce it?  Pistons and rings.   

I appreciate the input, but I would rather buy a new truck, If I could find one...just to probably have the same problems again.... lol.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...