Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 11/23/2021 at 8:54 AM, Another JR said:

Think about this. What fraction if your operating time is spent with the oil temperature below the stabilized operating temperature, which is pretty much the same regardless of outside air temp due to the cooling system thermostat?  To what extent does “oil drag” compare to your total actual engine power output needed to move the vehicle?  A few percent?  So how much difference does even a large change in cold oil drag really make in overall fuel mileage? How does that compare to the several percent change in volumetric heating value of the fuel when they change to the winter fuel formulation, recognizing that fuel is sold based on volume?  
 

To say the seasonal mileage effect drivers see is not dominantly driven by the fuel characteristics doesn’t make sense to me. 

 

That depends on trip length. I log this stuff. It can take 3 miles to reach operating water temperature but 25 miles to reach 'stable' oil temperature. 10 miles to reach 170 F oil temp. The transmission with an operating thermostat can take 100 miles in mid winter to get hot enough to open the thermostat (194F). Can take as little as 20% of that distance on a 90 F day.  Look at this graph again. If your trip lengths are under 10 miles when it is 32 F (0C) or colder your average viscosity is is 10X higher than stabile oil temps.  How much extra power does that take. During the warm up idle, if this is your custom and if you have a torque meter you would find it take 2 to 3X more. 10 to 15 hp instead of 4.8 to 5.2 hp. 

 

As shown in another earlier graph even the base oil type the SAE grade is made from has a LARGE influence on the front end (cold) viscosities. Each has it's own curve. 

 

Graph_Oil_LM_Synth_0W30_1024.png

 

The diffs and wheel bearings never reach summer viscosities and are the heaviest fluids in the system. 

 

Find your self a post on a flat road. Come in at 50 mph and click off the cruise and note how far it takes to slow down to 30 mph. Leave it in gear. Make it a habit and with the seasons you will find perhaps a 100 yard difference in coast down length. If you do this instead using time instead of distance and know the weight of the vehicle you can calculate the difference in fluid drag (assuming you're diligent about tire pressures). 

 

@customboss isn't steering you wrong. The BTU content is 1.7% different. I've made millions of gallons of gasoline sir and he's tested likely more. We are not guessing. These are things we've measured. 

 

Depending on where you live the difference in between summer and winter wind speed and direction is also a HUGE influence in a pickup and the faster you drive the more impact it has. In my area winter/spring winds are continuous and stiff. Walk into a 20 mph wind with a 4X8 sheet of plywood. :crackup:Summer and fall are much calmer here. Heck even crops in a field influence mpg (wind breaks). Wind speed and direction even at 55 mph can and does have a 15-20% effect. 

 

Are you 'all over' tire pressures year around? Com' on now. People hate adjusting pressures anytime but when it's really cold they will suffer the fuel and safety decline. 3 psi is noticeable. 10F a change of 1 psi rule of thumb. This time of year here that can mean a 3 to 5 psi swing several times a week.  

 

There is allot more to winter fuel decline than 'winter fuel'. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 3
Posted

Tha

1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

That depends on trip length. I log this stuff. It can take 3 miles to reach operating water temperature but 25 miles to reach 'stable' oil temperature. 10 miles to reach 170 F oil temp. The transmission with an operating thermostat can take 100 miles in mid winter to get hot enough to open the thermostat (194F). Can take as little as 20% of that distance on a 90 F day.  Look at this graph again. If your trip lengths are under 10 miles when it is 32 F (0C) or colder your average viscosity is is 10X higher than stabile oil temps.  How much extra power does that take. During the warm up idle, if this is your custom and if you have a torque meter you would find it take 2 to 3X more. 10 to 15 hp instead of 4.8 to 5.2 hp. 

 

As shown in another earlier graph even the base oil type the SAE grade is made from has a LARGE influence on the front end (cold) viscosities. Each has it's own curve. 

 

Graph_Oil_LM_Synth_0W30_1024.png

 

The diffs and wheel bearings never reach summer viscosities and are the heaviest fluids in the system. 

 

Find your self a post on a flat road. Come in at 50 mph and click off the cruise and note how far it takes to slow down to 30 mph. Leave it in gear. Make it a habit and with the seasons you will find perhaps a 100 yard difference in coast down length. If you do this instead using time instead of distance and know the weight of the vehicle you can calculate the difference in fluid drag (assuming you're diligent about tire pressures). 

 

@customboss isn't steering you wrong. The BTU content is 1.7% different. I've made millions of gallons of gasoline sir and he's tested likely more. We are not guessing. These are things we've measured. 

 

Depending on where you live the difference in between summer and winter wind speed and direction is also a HUGE influence in a pickup and the faster you drive the more impact it has. In my area winter/spring winds are continuous and stiff. Walk into a 20 mph wind with a 4X8 sheet of plywood. :crackup:Summer and fall are much calmer here. Heck even crops in a field influence mpg (wind breaks). Wind speed and direction even at 55 mph can and does have a 15-20% effect. 

 

Are you 'all over' tire pressures year around? Com' on now. People hate adjusting pressures anytime but when it's really cold they will suffer the fuel and safety decline. 3 psi is noticeable. 10F a change of 1 psi rule of thumb. This time of year here that can mean a 3 to 5 psi swing several times a week.  

 

There is allot more to winter fuel decline than 'winter fuel'. 

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation and for making the extra effort to educate me

  • Like 2
Posted
49 minutes ago, Another JR said:

Thanks for the detailed explanation and for making the extra effort to educate me

 

No problem. Pay it forward  Everyone has something to contribute, right? 😉

Posted (edited)
On 11/5/2021 at 8:34 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

image.thumb.png.4913f84c372221b4fcfce76f286256fa.png

 

I understand the graph but am having some trouble believing this is in a Duramax.  What engine is this?  It looks like your average is somewhere in the vicinity of 27 mpg with peak average even more. 

 

Edited by nutdriver
Posted
28 minutes ago, nutdriver said:

 

I understand the graph but am having some trouble believing this is in a Duramax.  What engine is this?  It looks like your average is somewhere in the vicinity of 27 mpg with peak average even more. 

 

 

Oh! Well...It's not a Duramax but the reference is to the effect of oil viscosity on economy with remains valid. More to the point the cold end of viscosity. Sorry, no intent to confuse or deceive. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Oh! Well...It's not a Duramax but the reference is to the effect of oil viscosity on economy with remains valid. More to the point the cold end of viscosity. Sorry, no intent to confuse or deceive. 

No worries.  My experience driving a VW TDI for 20 years showed swings of about 10% between winter and summer.  I mitigate the winter hit somewhat by driving my duramax more gingerly until it is fairly warm.  I have about 2 miles of 35 mph followed by 3 miles of 60 mph before hitting a local expressway. 

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, nutdriver said:

 

I understand the graph but am having some trouble believing this is in a Duramax.  What engine is this?  It looks like your average is somewhere in the vicinity of 27 mpg with peak average even more. 

 

What makes you think Grumpy drives a duramax?

 

I'm pretty sure his truck is a V6 gas...

 

 

Fwiw, based on how mine have been I could be convinced it is a 3.0L dmax, but certainly not a 6.6L dmax.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

image.thumb.png.c0f83389774aafb2d926ccf0ab9c5d08.png

 

Lifetime is currently 25.6.

Big dips are towing (less than full tank trips)

 

I've never plotted any of my 6.6's, but I logged the fills and they 

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, redwngr said:

What makes you think Grumpy drives a duramax?

 

I'm pretty sure his truck is a V6 gas...

 

 

Fwiw, based on how mine have been I could be convinced it is a 3.0L dmax, but certainly not a 6.6L dmax.

 

Not that it really matters but I jumped to conclusions because this is posted in the 6.6 Liter 2020 Duramax forum section. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, nutdriver said:

 

Not that it really matters but I jumped to conclusions because this is posted in the 6.6 Liter 2020 Duramax forum section. 

 

To be honest I didn't even bother to read what forum it was in. The title caught my eye. I just like the topic. 

:rollin:

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...