Jump to content

Leveling Kit Already Installed?

Justin Blommer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Justin Blommer New Member

Justin Blommer

Posted
Posted

2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4.

 

I'm hoping someone with wiser eyes than mine can tell me if this truck already has a leveling kit installed -- see pics. I had always assumed it was stock (and to me it looks stock), but ReadyLift's product page for their leveling kit for this truck indicated that the front end measurement from center hub to fender on this truck should be 22" or less on a stock setup, and I measured mine at 22.5". 

 

Also i'm eyeing a ReadyLift or Motofab level kit with UCA's. I'm looking to do a 17x8.5" +0 offset Method wheel with a 285/70/r17 (roughly a 33x11.5") Nitto Ridge Grappler. Curious if anyone running a similar setup has any issues with rubbing or other concerns.

 

Thank you!

20211112_121842-min.jpg

20211112_121907-min.jpg

Justin Blommer New Member

Justin Blommer

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, stevejones said:

Yeah, it's leveled with a spacer block kit under the bottom of the strut.

 

Oh okay, thanks! I was thinking that U-shaped piece looked a bit like a spacer but wasn't sure if they come from the factory with a small one.

 

It might be sorta hard to tell from the picture, but any guesses on what brand kit? Or more importantly if I'm able to clear a 285/70/17 tire?

Edited by Justin Blommer
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)

It looks similar like the Rough Country level kit that I have on mine except for the rounded front face:

 https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1307.html?find=2016-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-738387

 

One big giveaway that you have a level kit is looking at the top of the left bolt and you can see that it was cut down. The directions call for disassembling a bunch of stuff when installing and the bolts are supposed to be installed from the top down. But a shortcut to save on installation time is to install the bolts from underneath like the stock setup but one of the bolts will be too long and interfere. Cut the 1 bolt down and you are good. 

 

Just to add, when it comes time to change your struts, this method will also helps because you won't have to disassemble a bunch of the front end to do it. I however followed the Rough Country instructions and dread the time when it comes to new struts...

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

That's the stupiderist thing ever. Rough Country didn't want to pay less money for less bolt?

The real solution is to install the bolt from the top and not the bottom.
No issue afterward.

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

The real solution is to install the bolt from the top and not the bottom.
No issue afterward.

 

What I mean is, why not provide smaller bolts so you can install them from the underside. And in turn reduce installation complexity, right? Confusing, because GM seems to have no issue having a bolt from the bottom up..

  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

Confusing, because GM seems to have no issue having a bolt from the bottom up..

Once a level is installed, the front drive axle is much closer to the bolt. Also why the disassembly of the suspension (upper control arm, torsion bar, lower control arm - just don't let it drop enough to pull out the front drive axle - which has to be pulled on a true lift) for access is another recommendation.
Better to have more threads on the bolt than less.
Therefore, the top bolt install recommendation for the potentially interfering bolt stud since most levels don't use the stock bolt attachment mounts.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • C. Hart
      Exhaust Question

      By C. Hart · Posted

      I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • newdude
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By newdude · Posted

      Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"
    • asilverblazer
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Good information!  I didn't know about the dementia aspect and asked for a general for my second knee. I'd heard that recovery room time is usually shorter with a general.   The anesthesiologist talked me out of it and I had the spinal.  Inconvenience and/or discomfort is a small price to pay for reduced risk!
    • garagerog
      Navigating senior years.

      By garagerog · Posted

      This is for those over 70 years of age contemplating joint replacement surgery involving general anesthesia. Even some 55 yrs. ago when I took my pharmacology class the dangers of developing dementia in the elderly that had general anesthesia were beginning to be recognized. Over the years there has been some refinement in the cautionary warnings, avoid general anesthesia if possible if you've had close to 10 priors, especially over the age of 70 and/or a family history of dementia. I'm not including the twilight anesthesia induced by propofol often used in cytoscopies or colonscopies. Seriously think about seeing a neurologist and undergo cognitive testing before proceeding if any of those criteria apply to you. Spinal anesthesia may be an option in some cases. I'm in the above camp and although I could use a new right knee, I get fidgety according to a prior orthopedic surgeon when the bone saw spools up or maybe it was the smell of saw blade meeting bone, anyhow I may have one general anesthesia left in me which I will pocket for now and I'm choosing mind over mobility, anyway where did I leave my damn cane!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...