Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey there,

 

I've been thinking about trying this for a while and finally completed it today (the final wiring isn't complete yet).

 

The light is a Rigid Industries SRS PRO 10" SPOT Midnight.  The Midnight version has a blackout circuit board and reflectors for a more stealthy look.  I've had almost the same light before and it REALLY reaches out there.  Rigid lights are expensive but they last.  I figured if I was cutting up a $200 hoodscoop I better get something that is great quality.

 

There is plenty of room in there for the lightbar.  I had to trim the mounting brackets that came with the light significantly and of course cut the hell out of the black hoodscoop insert.  I spent about 4 hrs with the Dremel, lol.  Once the cutout is made there will be holes right in front of the light on the bottom of the black plastic insert.  The holes are from cutting out the 3 vertical plastic support posts.  I made a small aluminum cover and siliconed it in place to hide everything.  I gotta say, the hardest part was figuring out where to cut and grind without going too far...

I am really happy with the result!  Tonight, I will aim it and I'll get to the permanent wiring soon.   

 

 

 

 

IMG_5424.JPG

IMG_5421.JPG

IMG_5422.JPG

IMG_5419.JPG

IMG_5420.JPG

Edited by Jeff Antley
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Jeff Antley said:

Hey there,

 

I've been thinking about trying this for a while and finally completed it today (the final wiring isn't complete yet).

 

The light is a Rigid Industries SRS PRO 10" SPOT Midnight.  The Midnight version has a blackout circuit board and reflectors for a more stealthy look.  I've had almost the same light before and it REALLY reaches out there.  Rigid lights are expensive but they last.  I figured if I was cutting up a $200 hoodscoop I better get something that is great quality.

 

There is plenty of room in there for the lightbar.  I had to trim the mounting brackets that came with the light significantly and of course cut the hell out of the black hoodscoop insert.  I spent about 4 hrs with the Dremel, lol.  Once the cutout is made there will be holes right in front of the light on the bottom of the black plastic insert.  The holes are from cutting out the 3 vertical plastic support posts.  I made a small aluminum cover and siliconed it in place to hide everything.  I gotta say, the hardest part was figuring out where to cut and grind without going too far...

I am really happy with the result!  Tonight, I will aim it and I'll get to the permanent wiring soon.   

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/zs6xUBU.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ZqCBROD.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ndLRZVj.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FnMWUMY.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NYr0eSS.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/RXEnLhp.jpg[/img]

 

 

Can you re-attach the pictures?

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 3:49 PM, Jeff Antley said:

Hey there,

 

I've been thinking about trying this for a while and finally completed it today (the final wiring isn't complete yet).

 

The light is a Rigid Industries SRS PRO 10" SPOT Midnight.  The Midnight version has a blackout circuit board and reflectors for a more stealthy look.  I've had almost the same light before and it REALLY reaches out there.  Rigid lights are expensive but they last.  I figured if I was cutting up a $200 hoodscoop I better get something that is great quality.

 

There is plenty of room in there for the lightbar.  I had to trim the mounting brackets that came with the light significantly and of course cut the hell out of the black hoodscoop insert.  I spent about 4 hrs with the Dremel, lol.  Once the cutout is made there will be holes right in front of the light on the bottom of the black plastic insert.  The holes are from cutting out the 3 vertical plastic support posts.  I made a small aluminum cover and siliconed it in place to hide everything.  I gotta say, the hardest part was figuring out where to cut and grind without going too far...

I am really happy with the result!  Tonight, I will aim it and I'll get to the permanent wiring soon.   

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/zs6xUBU.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ZqCBROD.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ndLRZVj.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FnMWUMY.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NYr0eSS.jpg[/img]

 

[img]https://i.imgur.com/RXEnLhp.jpg[/img]

 

 

Can’t open your pics.

Posted

Pictures are showing up correctly now.

 

Seems like a good use of space, since the scoop is just for show on the gas trucks. Not usually a big fan of cutting into a vehicle like that, but your install is clean which makes it look good.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Random said:

Pictures are showing up correctly now.

 

Seems like a good use of space, since the scoop is just for show on the gas trucks. Not usually a big fan of cutting into a vehicle like that, but your install is clean which makes it look good.

Thanks!  I don't know why but I had one hell of a time with the pics, lol.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Do you have any sort of write up for this?  Looks like you have it wired directly to a switch and not your high beams.  I would be very interested in doing this as well.  Long stretches of rural wooded roads with no lights, lots of deer and moose!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Cheekster96 said:

Do you have any sort of write up for this?  Looks like you have it wired directly to a switch and not your high beams.  I would be very interested in doing this as well.  Long stretches of rural wooded roads with no lights, lots of deer and moose!

I didn’t do a write up but it’s pretty straightforward. I did trim the light bar brackets in the front so they could be hidden.
The bar is bolted through the hood with stainless 1/4 20 bolts.

As I mentioned earlier, the hardest and most intimidating part is trimming the plastic vent!  It takes lots of small adjustments to get it right. 
I’ll take some more pics when I can. Most of the plastic clips broke when I pulled off the chrome piece so I have to take it apart to replace them. 
This is the switch - I did wire it hot all the time for now...

 

F604E5E7-3348-4331-9986-6FB5CEBE2C84.thumb.jpeg.371a9170c032df841f02f6ee1283d6b4.jpeg271C3B00-9698-44E3-8E5F-AF1914E45827.thumb.jpeg.fa1ad56df39a7177843f7b3dac1bab0e.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 12:49 PM, Jeff Antley said:

The light is a Rigid Industries SRS PRO 10" SPOT Midnight. 

 

How tall is that bar? Did you think about doing a 20" before the 10?

 

Thanks.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I know this is an older thread. Would you or anybody else that did this mod be able to post a picture in the dark, from inside the can. Wondering about any glare off the front of the truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...