Jump to content

Rear suspension hop/skip/jump on corners

rbdjr

By rbdjr
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

rbdjr Enthusiast

rbdjr

Posted
Posted

2021 RST,4x4, crew,3.0L, factory tires-275/60/R20,  sits now approx 40" +- 1/4" ground to the edge of each wheel well. After a 2" Motofab upper strut spacer (approx 1.5-inch spacer), and then Installing a 1" rear leveling kit from Supreme Suspensions Pro-Billet rear lift kit 1" lift spacer and U bolts.

I'm ok with the front shocks currently 10,000 miles on the truck, but the rear suspension has not felt right from day one, around corners that road has any bumps on it truck skips /slide over bumps back end on corners? not sure if 5100 s ? would improve this handling condition, It does improve and feel fine when I put 250Lb s(bags of salt) in back of the truck all the way back by a tailgate with it closed Where is the best place to buy the 5100s? Has anyone else used these shocks to confirm the improved handling in the rear? Have been looking at the 5100?  or 5125?  Bilsteins, anyone else?

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted

Its all in the design, independent rear suspension is the fix. I think GM is transitioning to irs in future models. 

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted

Ditch the spacers and go with the Eibach Pro Truck Lift, best handling truck I have ever owned.  For your issues, getting just the rear shocks should be fine if you don't want to commit to the front suspension.

  • Like 1
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

Its all in the design, independent rear suspension is the fix. I think GM is transitioning to irs in future models. 

IFS and IRS provide a much nicer handling vehicle(see the new Tahoe?), but Chevrolet, RAM, and Ford will never go to an IRS on a work truck, they simply cant handle the loads that a solid axle truck can.  RAM was a leader in the industry going to rear coils while retaining the solid axle, but their towing and payloads suffered from it, which they seem to be fine with.  Solid axle rears are by far the most capable and cost effective rear suspensions for vehicle's carrying/towing heavy loads, and that wont change anytime in the near future unless the "work" truck market goes electric.

  • Like 1
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Gangly said:

IFS and IRS provide a much nicer handling vehicle(see the new Tahoe?), but Chevrolet, RAM, and Ford will never go to an IRS on a work truck, they simply cant handle the loads that a solid axle truck can.  RAM was a leader in the industry going to rear coils while retaining the solid axle, but their towing and payloads suffered from it, which they seem to be fine with.  Solid axle rears are by far the most capable and cost effective rear suspensions for vehicle's carrying/towing heavy loads, and that wont change anytime in the near future unless the "work" truck market goes electric.

 

Exactly, electric 😉 

 

I can't find the article now... But this journalist speculated that since everything is headed towards electric. GM will likely switch to one suspension design for ease of manufacturing, cost etc.

 

Sure there's the trade offs, but there's a lot more grocery getters then work trucks on the road. Imo if it really is for work, a base model 3/4 ton would be my choice. 

 

Edited by M1ck3y
It's Tim Senior Enthusiast

It's Tim

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, rbdjr said:

the rear suspension has not felt right from day one, around corners that road has any bumps on it truck skips /slide over bumps back end on corners? not sure if 5100 s ? would improve this handling condition

This is either God or Sir Isaac Newtons' ghost advising you to slow down. 😉

Not sure throwing money at the truck would actually "fix" anything.

03blackz71 Senior Enthusiast

03blackz71

Posted
Posted

I install bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear at 1000 miles.   Fixed that issue for me.    I had one bump on my daily drive that would kick the rear end out all the time.  Scary when it was raining doing 60 mph.  The bilsteins eliminated it.     I will eventually get the fronts.

rbdjr Enthusiast

rbdjr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, It's Tim said:

This is either God or Sir Isaac Newtons' ghost advising you to slow down. 😉

Not sure throwing money at the truck would actually "fix" anything.

Tell God and Sir Isaac Newton to try a 2006 4x4  GMC1500 4door truck as it did not have this problem. 

Thanks for your informative info

Flatblack83 Enthusiast

Flatblack83

Posted
Posted

These trucks bounce worse too when or if you ever change tires to lt tires.  I changed to bfg's and it was bad, I have icon dynamics rear adjustable compression shocks.  They worked for me but in your case a better shock would do,  I'd prob do rancho 9000xl tho. Then you can adjust it to what u want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Post Pics of your "Other" Rides

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...