Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

3 hours ago, Hazem A said:

I was under the impression that NGK Ruthenium advertised as a High Ignitability plug would save significant gas milage especially with its high durability or long service life, so i bought a set of 8 pcs from rockauto along with a new set of GM genuine wires for my 2015 Seirra Denali 6.2l

 

NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability; Pre-Set Gap: 0.044" Info   One of our most popular parts

 

Few days after replacement, I started to have random misfire code P0300. Spent few days trying to diagnose the problem and the misfire was eliminated after reverting back to ACDelco 41-114 OEM plugs except for Cylinder #. 8. Apparently, the injectors were affected and now i have to bear nearly $1000 USD to replace all 8 injectors, fuel lines and fuel pipes. I regret going for aftermarket parts when it comes to essential engine components and will never do it again.

 

The conclusion:

I wouldn't recommend going for NGK Ruthenium plugs under any circumstances. Genuine Iridium OEM plugs with 0.04" design gap offer excellent service life without an issue.

 

I put a set of Ruthenium plugs in Dizzy the oil eater. Work like a charm.

 

Killing an injector? Rubbish. I wore boots today and got a flat tire. My boots didn't cause a flat tire. 

 

ACDelco doesn't make plugs. NGK makes plugs with ACDelco labels. They don't make better parts for their other labels than their own. Actually, the Ruthenium plug is the only plug in the line with an EXACT resistance. 5K Ohms. All others are a range, 2 to 7K.

 

Going back about 50 years 5K miles was plug change time when electrodes were steel. It is the use of precious metals that permits long life under harsher conditions. Little to no erosion. 😉 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Speaking of 'back in the day". I didn't change plugs at 5K. I pulled them, cleaned them. Filed the electrodes sharp again, re-gaped them and ran them another 5K or until they missed. Rinse and repeat until there was nothing left to clean gap. They cost about a quarter then. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Hazem A said:

I was under the impression that NGK Ruthenium advertised as a High Ignitability plug would save significant gas milage especially with its high durability or long service life, so i bought a set of 8 pcs from rockauto along with a new set of GM genuine wires for my 2015 Seirra Denali 6.2l

 

NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability; Pre-Set Gap: 0.044" Info   One of our most popular parts

 

Few days after replacement, I started to have random misfire code P0300. Spent few days trying to diagnose the problem and the misfire was eliminated after reverting back to ACDelco 41-114 OEM plugs except for Cylinder #. 8. Apparently, the injectors were affected and now i have to bear nearly $1000 USD to replace all 8 injectors, fuel lines and fuel pipes. I regret going for aftermarket parts when it comes to essential engine components and will never do it again.

 

The conclusion:

I wouldn't recommend going for NGK Ruthenium plugs under any circumstances. Genuine Iridium OEM plugs with 0.04" design gap offer excellent service life without an issue.

 

 

 

Injectors are a known failure point on these engines and its quite common.  The plugs are unlikely the culprit here.  

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Hazem A said:

Few days after replacement, I started to have random misfire code P0300. Spent few days trying to diagnose the problem and the misfire was eliminated after reverting back to ACDelco 41-114 OEM plugs except for Cylinder #. 8. Apparently, the injectors were affected and now i have to bear nearly $1000 USD to replace all 8 injectors, fuel lines and fuel pipes. I regret going for aftermarket parts when it comes to essential engine components and will never do it again.

 

I'm just curious if only 1 cylinder is having a problem with a fuel injector, why do all 8 have to be replaced? I know I was having a problem last year with misfires and it was determined that the fuel injector on cylinder 1 (IIRC) was bad and stuck open. Only that injector was replaced by the dealer under service plan and haven't had a problem since. I would have preferred all to be replaced for good measure or at least all the ones on that side but service plan only allowed the defective one to be replaced and so far so good.

 

But back to the discussion of OEM vs Aftermarket, I will sometimes use some OEM and sometimes aftermarket, it just depends on a lot of variables... what is being replaced or upgraded, cost, availability, etc... For spark plugs, I replaced mine last year but stuck with the OEM and got a healthy rebate. Both O'Reilly and AC Delco had rebates and I think it only cost just over $2 a plug. The OEM had served me well so no reason to change. Same with my coolant thermostat. Old one went bad and I tried an aftermarket replacement but that lasted only maybe a couple months. I replaced that one with OEM but lower temp and so far so good. Oil is always the OEM recommended but only because it gets done by dealer and that's what they use. It doesn't cost much more for dealer to do it than if I did it myself so I treat myself on that. But with shocks and struts, OEM left a lot to desire so aftermarket was the way I went there. I did go with Rancho for front struts but bought the QuickLift ones and put Bilstein 4600 shocks in rear.  Many repairs, I try to tackle myself. As vehicles age, OEM parts start to dwindle and then the aftermarket becomes very valuable. My 2016 is still new enough where parts are still available so mostly OEM is my choice for now 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 7/19/2023 at 6:23 AM, Hazem A said:

I was under the impression that NGK Ruthenium advertised as a High Ignitability plug would save significant gas milage especially with its high durability or long service life, so i bought a set of 8 pcs from rockauto along with a new set of GM genuine wires for my 2015 Seirra Denali 6.2l

 

NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability; Pre-Set Gap: 0.044" Info   One of our most popular parts

 

Few days after replacement, I started to have random misfire code P0300. Spent few days trying to diagnose the problem and the misfire was eliminated after reverting back to ACDelco 41-114 OEM plugs except for Cylinder #. 8. Apparently, the injectors were affected and now i have to bear nearly $1000 USD to replace all 8 injectors, fuel lines and fuel pipes. I regret going for aftermarket parts when it comes to essential engine components and will never do it again.

 

The conclusion:

I wouldn't recommend going for NGK Ruthenium plugs under any circumstances. Genuine Iridium OEM plugs with 0.04" design gap offer excellent service life without an issue.

 

I have been running Ruthenium plugs in my 2015 5.3L for over 30,000 miles now.  Noticed improved fuel mileage, smoother idle, and cleaner burning right after I put them in.  No problems at all so far, and I just checked them recently and they are very clean for their age.  Will probably replace with the same thing in a few more thousand miles.

 

Also as others above said, guess who makes the ACDelco-branded plugs?  Yep, NGK.  They are built to specs that GM lays out, which aren't always based on the best for the life of the engine (they usually are spec'd to meet some government requirements).  That's not to say the OEM plugs are junk, they will work fine for the application.  But paying more for the Ruthenium ones will get you some improvement, it's just up to personal preference.

Edited by sk
  • Thanks 1
Posted

GM somewhat quietly raised the warranty on injectors to 10 years/150k miles.  I had one replaced earlier this year; I diagnosed a weeping HPFP via the GM test procedure, replaced it (scraping the intake valves clean while the intake was off), but still couldn't cure the -7% fuel trims and <1% fuel dilution.  Knowing the  recall, the dealer diagnosed a faulty injector.  I had them replace the other 7 while they were in there, because if one failed, the rest aren't far behind, and I refuse to play "whack a mole."  I arranged a little bit of price discount, and it only cost an extra $300 for them to do all 8 (with parts/labor warranty) vs. me doing it at my cost.  As I'd already done two timing chains in the previous few months, I had them do the weeping front cover seal and oil cooler line at the same time.

  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I just bought 8 x 14-114 AC plugs for my 2021 5.3 litre GMC Sierra. I see there are different letters/numbers printed on the flats of the hex for spark plug socket R and R.

I hope these are not "cal codes" and I hope this is not a dealer notation to enter via their computers after installation?

Posted
3 hours ago, Delta Tango said:

I hope these are not "cal codes" and I hope this is not a dealer notation to enter via their computers after installation?

 

Nope

Posted

Just to let you folks know I'm working on this spark plug R and R as we speak.

However much money The General pays these engineering people to make things difficult (even for HD diesel mechanics) to do maintenance here at the home base......it's working!

  • Like 1
Posted

Driver's side bank done=2.0 hours.

 

Some blood shed. Minor.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Delta Tango said:

Driver's side bank done=2.0 hours.

 

Some blood shed. Minor.

 

Guy could have a 50K square foot home. The sump pump you need to work on is in the darkest corner of the basement hidden behind whatever and under the lowest shelf they could build. :crackup:Keep plugging away. 

Posted

Total time for air cleaner base and assorted giblets R and R was a tad over an hour. Lost one washer and wrecked a zap strap holder (small).

 

Passenger side, here I come.

Posted

It's important to take water breaks and even take a phone call or two.

 

Keeps the mind clear, and the language decent.....

  • Haha 1
Posted

Passenger side bank DONE!

 

Now for the ever important yet recently neglected road test.

Posted

Road test completed.

Took unit on slight hill for a wee bit of a load.

No CEL’s!

I’m happy with the outcome but anyone reading this and is used to changing plugs on their 1972 GMC w/inline 6… stay away!

This was not for the faint of heart, there’s too much in the way and that takes time and effort.

I rate my project as 40% talent and 60% luck!

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...