Jump to content

DIY sliding window leak permanent repair

Leevon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jglew82 Enthusiast

Jglew82

Posted
Posted (edited)

Preventatively did this method on my ‘23 this past Wednesday. Thanks for the detailed guide and providing hope this won’t be an issue like it was on my ‘21! 

Couple notes on the spoiler reseal:

 

1. Those 2 lonely seals they include are only on the 2 yellow clips

2. the threaded holes for the 4 outboard bolts seem to have embossed rubber washers on the standoffs, which actually seem pretty good. I applied sealer anyway. 

3. I removed all the body plugs, applied light sealer to them as well. Taking no chances!

 

50A7B26E-6190-4F01-92DE-56CCD84C6C00.thumb.jpeg.c64133b90853ae1ac1abff6ca6147147.jpeg

Edited by Jglew82
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Leevon
Leevon

This is my 2nd Trail Boss with a leaking slider, both of them I bought new.  The first one I fixed myself by replacing the slider with a solid window (details are somewhere in the massive leak thread)

GN2018
GN2018

I’m so thankful to Leevon for posting this.  My original plan if I got a leak was to get the solid window.  Now I’m thinking I’ll find someone to do the repair properly as shown in this thread.  And,

Josh_166
Josh_166

Just did this myself. I tried sealing around the spoiler first and it definitely slowed it down, but there was still a slight leak. Not a soaked headliner like it was before the fix but enough I didn'

Posted Images

DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just finished my ‘19 Silverado that had several minor leaks. Total of 5 cracks. 3 were fairly large. 
I have done lots of caulking on several home projects and when I built engines.

 I laid in a goodly coat of premium clear silicone and top coated it with the w/s sealer. I can’t imagine how it could leak. 
my only reservation (after putting it back together) is I didn’t put any sealer around the two plastic alignment pins nor the four bolts.

 I honestly didn’t think about those alignment pins….The bolts have a built in seal so less concerned about those.


edit—

I just figured out the pins wouldn’t need sealer…

 

 

Edited by DHBWA
  • 4 weeks later...
Chrisd534 Enthusiast

Chrisd534

Posted
Posted (edited)

Quick question(s) .. Is 1 tube of the seam sealer stuff enough? And do you need the special gun for it? 

Also would it be comparable to 3M 08307 seam sealer or would you think sems is better? 

Edited by Chrisd534
Pacfanweb Enthusiast

Pacfanweb

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/5/2023 at 11:52 AM, Chrisd534 said:

Quick question(s) .. Is 1 tube of the seam sealer stuff enough? And do you need the special gun for it? 

Also would it be comparable to 3M 08307 seam sealer or would you think sems is better? 

3M is fine. One should be plenty.  
I don't use that type when I do it, I use Kent Automotive High Tech Clear, but I see folks having success with the 2-part, so it should be fine, just clean, clean and clean it some more with solvent. 

And seal every single thing that pokes through the roof on the spoiler.  The nuts have sealer on them, but most of it comes off and the GM TSB tells you to replace them because of that.  Definitely seal them. 

 

Also be sure to tape off the plastic around the sliding window. If you get sealer on it and have to clean it off with solvent, it'll take the shine off of it.  

Edited by Pacfanweb
Chrisd534 Enthusiast

Chrisd534

Posted
Posted
On 4/10/2023 at 10:09 AM, Pacfanweb said:

3M is fine. One should be plenty.  
I don't use that type when I do it, I use Kent Automotive High Tech Clear, but I see folks having success with the 2-part, so it should be fine, just clean, clean and clean it some more with solvent. 

And seal every single thing that pokes through the roof on the spoiler.  The nuts have sealer on them, but most of it comes off and the GM TSB tells you to replace them because of that.  Definitely seal them. 

 

Also be sure to tape off the plastic around the sliding window. If you get sealer on it and have to clean it off with solvent, it'll take the shine off of it.  

Thanks for the tips.. Any cleaning solvent you recommend? 

Also for the liner can I just drop the back or will it crease the liner 

Pacfanweb Enthusiast

Pacfanweb

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Chrisd534 said:

Thanks for the tips.. Any cleaning solvent you recommend? 

Also for the liner can I just drop the back or will it crease the liner 

I use brake parts cleaner, but a good wax/grease remover would probably be better.  You can usually find the 3M version in parts stores. 

The headliner:  Be sure to remove the coat hooks, and seems like there's a dome light in the rear that might need to be removed as well.  Been awhile since I pulled one of the headliners now.   Usually if you bend the liner it will crease temporarily, but unless you leave it that way for a long time, it'll eventually iron itself back out once it's back in place. 

  • 2 months later...
Mshawn Enthusiast

Mshawn

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/15/2022 at 4:22 PM, Leevon said:

This is my 2nd Trail Boss with a leaking slider, both of them I bought new.  The first one I fixed myself by replacing the slider with a solid window (details are somewhere in the massive leak thread).  The second one I wanted to keep the slider and permanently seal before it ever leaked.  I've had the truck over a year and finally got around to it.  Since I was dropping the headliner I also added the camera rearview mirror and hard-wired my radar detector.  

 

I dropped the headliner and removed the spoiler.  I cleaned the top of the window channel with all purpose cleaner and a detail brush and dried it.  I taped the top of the glass and back of the cab with some little tape ball dams at the ends.  I warmed the area up with a heat gun so it would flow then I applied self-leveling sealer SEM 39387 then I hit it with the gun a little more to draw out air bubbles.   After that cured, I put 3m strip caulk on all of the spoiler bolts and nuts and re-installed the spoiler.   The self-leveling sealer had the exact effect I wanted, it bridged from the glass to the body and covered up the plastic slider frame that cracks and leaks.  There were no cracks in the frame this time.  I also noticed they are putting a little sealer on the nuts that hold the spoiler on, but it's not adequate.  The way I did this it should never leak from the glass or the spoiler holes.  

 

The mirror upgrade was easy, swap the brake light, add the cable and swap the mirror.  Plug-and-play.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

thumbnail_IMG_8809.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8810.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8815.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8819.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8823.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8824.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8825.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8832.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8852.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8835.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8837.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8838.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8841.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_8842.jpg

I’ve been a tech for 36 years. I restore and build a lot of car bikes trucks! This is some great work. Thank you for this write up. One hell of a job. I just bought a 2023 Silverado RST, Texas edition. It has the sliding rear window. I was looking at that as a leak problem last night at the dealership before I sign the papers! Salesman was cool and said yes there had been some leak problems but someone on line has a solution. I googled it and this write up came up. Salesman has a RST with the same back window that is how he knew about this problem. Again thanks for putting this write up out there!

 

Mshawn

Edited by Mshawn
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Famak said:

Out of 5 sierra 1500, no leaks I guess I'm lucky

 

All five are 2019 or newer and have sliders?

That would be a miracle. If yes, have you inspected them closely..?

  • 2 weeks later...
ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted

Anyone ever tried just filling the gap between the spoiler and roofline with clear silicone? Not removing the spoiler, just pumping in silicone all along the top. If so, how did it do?

 

This could be a decent proactive measure or repair.

DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted

I thought of that but in a driving rain you will still get water on top of the slider. Another issue is unless you do a REAL clean job dust will collect on any overage and look crappy. Ask me how I know…..

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, DHBWA said:

I thought of that but in a driving rain you will still get water on top of the slider. Another issue is unless you do a REAL clean job dust will collect on any overage and look crappy. Ask me how I know…..

My thinking was that if you have enough between spoiler and roof, most of the water would have to go down the channels on the sides, instead of rolling over spoiler and then down to the top of the slider. What was your test and results, other than dust collecting on the silicone?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,501 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...