Front Door Speakers - Full Range?

iceytys · January 31, 2022

Does anyone know if the front door speakers (6x9) on the Bose system is full range or not? I've seen many people upgrading their front door speakers with components or coaxial speakers, so I just bought a pair of component 6x9 and thinking of mounting the tweeter at the top of the door panel. I want to see if this will be a plug and play swap, or if I have do to more.

If they are not full range, then maybe I can share the signal from the dash speakers for the tweeters?

Thanks in advance.

Edited January 31, 2022 by iceytys

Luke Ouellet · February 9, 2022

Yup - the front speaker is a full range signal with some slight bass roll off at really high volumes. If you replace the dash corner speaker with a tweeter, I would recommend an inline crossover or capacitor. The dash corners are fed with frequencies too low for a tweeter. If you replace the dash corner with a wideband (like Audiofrog's GS25, it is plug and play and handles 200hz all the way to 20,000hz, safely.

lapoolboy · February 10, 2022

So Luke, would a person benefit from simply replacing all the factory Bose speakers with AudioFrog stuff with NO other modifications or additions?

GETGONE · February 10, 2022

Holy crap! $270 for those GS25 speakers! The dedicated tweeters from them are $400! They better sound amazing for those prices!

kmeleon · February 10, 2022

20 hours ago, Luke Ouellet said:

Yup - the front speaker is a full range signal with some slight bass roll off at really high volumes. If you replace the dash corner speaker with a tweeter, I would recommend an inline crossover or capacitor. The dash corners are fed with frequencies too low for a tweeter. If you replace the dash corner with a wideband (like Audiofrog's GS25, it is plug and play and handles 200hz all the way to 20,000hz, safely.

I'm sorry, I have to disagree. I just setup my audiocontrol D6. 1200 amp and using the input RTA in the DSP software shows that the door speakers are not full range. I had to "sum" the front door and dash bose signal in order to get a full input signal to work with in my amp.

Currently I'm running the stock door and dash speakers with my 12" subthump box under the rear seat. Next weekend I should be able to treat the doors and get those speakers installed. I'm going with Hertz mid bass in the doors and tweets in the factory dash location. Coaxs in the rear doors.

Edited February 10, 2022 by kmeleon

kmeleon · February 10, 2022

Also, I have to say the stereo doesn't sound nearly as bad now that the Audiocontrol is running the show. I flattened out the bose peaks with the auto tune feature of the dsp, it's now much more bearable. Can't wait to get these new speakers installed.

BlueDMax · February 19, 2022

On 2/10/2022 at 12:49 PM, kmeleon said:

Also, I have to say the stereo doesn't sound nearly as bad now that the Audiocontrol is running the show. I flattened out the bose peaks with the auto tune feature of the dsp, it's now much more bearable. Can't wait to get these new speakers installed.

Any updates? I have a Crutchfield cart full of Hertz speakers/subs and an Audiocontrol lc5.1300. I don't have Bose, so the truck sounds like hot garbage now.

kmeleon · February 20, 2022

I just finished my install tonight. Audio control D6 1200, Hertz mpk 6 1/2 components, Hertz Cento 6 1/2 for rear fill, Image Dynamics idq 12 for a sub in a sealed box from subthump. I'm using the D6 to run the mpk tweeters active, mpk components in the front doors and channel 5&6 bridged going to thq idq12. The Cento rear doors are running off a small Infinity amp.

As far as an update for you I can tell you that the front door signal is not full range in the Bose system. With the D6 I'm able to sum the Tweeter and the door signals from the Bose amp and make a full range signal from them combined. It does seem that L series amp has channel summing so you'll just have to set that up and you'll be set. I do believe you might want some sort of DSP down the road since the factory head unit signal is not flat.

Edited February 20, 2022 by kmeleon

iceytys · February 20, 2022

On 2/10/2022 at 11:43 AM, kmeleon said:

I'm sorry, I have to disagree. I just setup my audiocontrol D6. 1200 amp and using the input RTA in the DSP software shows that the door speakers are not full range. I had to "sum" the front door and dash bose signal in order to get a full input signal to work with in my amp.

Currently I'm running the stock door and dash speakers with my 12" subthump box under the rear seat. Next weekend I should be able to treat the doors and get those speakers installed. I'm going with Hertz mid bass in the doors and tweets in the factory dash location. Coaxs in the rear doors.

Agree just put some JL Component 6x9's in the door, to complement the component 6.5" in the rears and the tweeters DO NOT work, so the signal is not full range. While the upgrade in the rear was a huge difference because you can now actually hear sound from the rear, the upgrade in the fronts are not as effective w/o the full range.

The bass is definitely tighter and cleaner than the muddy sound of the Bose at high levels, but now when I turn it up the dash speakers start to want to max out. So Ill be replacing those soon too. As for the tweeters I mounted in the door, I will just leave them for now, until I spend more time getting a full range signal to the doors.

My next upgrade is the kicker factory upgrade kit which I purchased a few weeks ago...no doubt that will give it just enough punch for it to sound fantastic.

mandrewbot3k · May 11, 2022

On 2/19/2022 at 7:19 PM, kmeleon said:

I just finished my install tonight. Audio control D6 1200, Hertz mpk 6 1/2 components, Hertz Cento 6 1/2 for rear fill, Image Dynamics idq 12 for a sub in a sealed box from subthump. I'm using the D6 to run the mpk tweeters active, mpk components in the front doors and channel 5&6 bridged going to thq idq12. The Cento rear doors are running off a small Infinity amp.

As far as an update for you I can tell you that the front door signal is not full range in the Bose system. With the D6 I'm able to sum the Tweeter and the door signals from the Bose amp and make a full range signal from them combined. It does seem that L series amp has channel summing so you'll just have to set that up and you'll be set. I do believe you might want some sort of DSP down the road since the factory head unit signal is not flat.

Can I ask why you are running your sub on 5/6 rather than your doors on the D6, and then your sub on a mono. Was it just a case of what you had around or was there a specific reason? I'm assuming the D6 1200 allows the Line output to be configured as a sub output or am I incorrect in that assumption?

I'm looking at going with an audio control dsp (maybe dsp/amp) and was gonna run some focal components up front and some 6.5 in the back without any subs, hoping I can get a decently clear signal in that truck.

The autobass feature of the AC DSPs is really what this truck needs, it just gets so damn harsh if the volume is anywhere above 1/3.

kmeleon · May 12, 2022

15 hours ago, mandrewbot3k said:

Can I ask why you are running your sub on 5/6 rather than your doors on the D6, and then your sub on a mono. Was it just a case of what you had around or was there a specific reason? I'm assuming the D6 1200 allows the Line output to be configured as a sub output or am I incorrect in that assumption?

I'm looking at going with an audio control dsp (maybe dsp/amp) and was gonna run some focal components up front and some 6.5 in the back without any subs, hoping I can get a decently clear signal in that truck.

The autobass feature of the AC DSPs is really what this truck needs, it just gets so damn harsh if the volume is anywhere above 1/3.

I ran the sub off channel 5&6 because I thought it was ample power for the sub and I didn't want to waste the quality AC channels on a set of rear fill speakers. I was wrong, the AC bridged channels were decent but lacking a bit of power for my sub considering the active stage in front. So I pulled the Infiniti amp and replaced it with a pioneer mono block 800 watt amp. Now my sub has plenty of power and the rear fill resides on the AC channels 5&6. Also ended up buying AF tweets and replaced the Hertz tweets on the dash. They were just a bit bright and didn't care for them, the AF's are damn impressive.

The AC DSP amps are good but the software is buggy and the tuning aspect of the software is not very friendly. If I was starting over I probably would've went a different route but it was too late in the game to change.

As for accubass, it works but with a remote bass knob you'll find that it's not needed. I set my amp to turn on the bass level to a reasonable level, actually a bit low. Then when I get in my truck and drive if Im not in a jamming mode I don't find myself having to mess with the knob. If I want to rock some tunes, then I dial it in on each song. Works well. So I've switched accubass off.

As for a good signal, you'll be fine. The stock head unit isn't too bad. Basically I don't exceed 3/4 volume and everything sounds clean. I could see some clipping after 3/4.

kmeleon · May 12, 2022

Oh and spend the money on treating the doors. The mid bass in my truck is amazing with the sound skins treatment and roadkill surrounds. It's probably the most impressive thing about the truck, but the AF tweets are damn good too.

mandrewbot3k · May 12, 2022

8 hours ago, kmeleon said:

I ran the sub off channel 5&6 because I thought it was ample power for the sub and I didn't want to waste the quality AC channels on a set of rear fill speakers. I was wrong, the AC bridged channels were decent but lacking a bit of power for my sub considering the active stage in front. So I pulled the Infiniti amp and replaced it with a pioneer mono block 800 watt amp. Now my sub has plenty of power and the rear fill resides on the AC channels 5&6. Also ended up buying AF tweets and replaced the Hertz tweets on the dash. They were just a bit bright and didn't care for them, the AF's are damn impressive.

The AC DSP amps are good but the software is buggy and the tuning aspect of the software is not very friendly. If I was starting over I probably would've went a different route but it was too late in the game to change.

As for accubass, it works but with a remote bass knob you'll find that it's not needed. I set my amp to turn on the bass level to a reasonable level, actually a bit low. Then when I get in my truck and drive if Im not in a jamming mode I don't find myself having to mess with the knob. If I want to rock some tunes, then I dial it in on each song. Works well. So I've switched accubass off.

As for a good signal, you'll be fine. The stock head unit isn't too bad. Basically I don't exceed 3/4 volume and everything sounds clean. I could see some clipping after 3/4.

Audio Frog a bit out of my budget tbh. I was thinking either 6.5/6x9/8 Focal or Infinity components in the front with the tweeter in the stock dash location, and some 6.5 coaxs in the rear doors. Looking at a few different Focal sets. I was leaning toward the 8" or 6x9 for the front for a little more thump, hopefully no needing a sub as I really need the space under the rear seat for tool storage I don't trust putting in the bed/toolbox. If I do, I would only be adding a mini powered solution under the drivers seat anyway, so I'm trying to avoid that.

I'm leaning toward LLJs S.I.K. GX500 kit as it seems to be a good setup for quick SQ upgrade without requiring RTA or getting too out of control with my budget... $620+ for power cabling and wire harness with the 4channel mini amp, then about $400 in auditor series speakers from focal.

traderfjp · November 12, 2023

I was told that the front door speakers in a refresh Bose Silverado cut off at 5k. Also: sub is 35-70hz, Doors: 40hz to 5k, rears: 200hz to 15k. It's very strange.

Firetiger(MN) · November 12, 2023

Here are the RTA results from my '23 with Bose where I checked the output signal going to the speakers. EQ was set to flat on the radio and pink noise was used.

Dash: