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Noise coming from front right wheel.

2009_Suburban
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Brenden Burnham
Brenden Burnham

One more thing.  Make sure that the axle nut, the 3 bolts and your caliper bolts are torqued down to spec.  Axle nut 177 Lb. ft.  The back bearing hub bolts 133 Lb ft.  Caliper mount bolts 129 Lb. ft.

shakenfake
shakenfake

Timken is good too.   I have a buddy who just did both front wheel bearings and one rear on his 99. The right front is O'Reilly brand, MasterPro(?), and the left front is Timken. We will see

richard wysong
richard wysong

make sure you use a torque wrench on the axle nut, too loose or too tight will quickly ruin a new bearing. if you don't even have a jack hopefully you have a good set of quality sockets and wrenches.

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dna9656 Enthusiast

dna9656

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By all means if you're going to do this get QUALITY jack stands and a jack. You CAN use a bottle jack (so names for it's shape) and safely lift each side one at a time or get a floor jack and lift each end, but always, always always, always, always, always use quality jack stands and use quality tools. If you buy cheap you're gonna buy twice.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

I agree but my local NAPA store feels the same as Moog was aquired by some conglomerate and most of the parts are  Chinese junk now

2009_Suburban Enthusiast

2009_Suburban

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Is the ACDelco Gold bearings good? Its not technically the genuine one, but they are still the same company that makes the genuine one.

 

Also, the other wheel moves when I move it up and down (but not left and right), but the brake caliper and other stuff move with it, and it stops moving at the upper ball joint. This means the wheel bearing for the other wheel is fine right?

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

do you have it jacked up under the control arm? if so it sounds like the ball joints are worn out. if they are unless you're replacing the control arms you may want to let a shop do them but if you want to try it you can rent the press at the parts store. this is another part you don't want to skimp on as the cheap ones probably won't last a year and even name brand stuff  may only be good for a couple. I got tired of changing mine and am using the best  I could find, heavy duty off road racing supposedly parts.road conditions have a lot to do with how fast they wear, hard braking over rough surfaces is hard on them and here in New England the roads are a mess. if you're not going to grease them don't buy ones with grease fittings, lots of oil change places don't even look for grease fittings anymore and its almost impossible to get at the fittings from 1 of those pits

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

you may want to change the bearing while you're there if you do the B Js, if 1 was worn out the others probably not far behind

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

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Just replaced both fronts in the wife's GMC with NTN (Japan bearings) loaded in South Korean forged hubs. Sourced from Bumper to Bumper. Just under $600 for the pair. 😱 BUT....Lifetime Warranty on parts, 3 years on labor. 

 

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Check these out. I forget who posted these on here but said they were using them. Quality product.

https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/product-assortment/automotive/wheel-end/x-tracker-hub-bearings

 

 

IF Pepper ever needs a set this looks good. Thank you for the source! 

Brenden Burnham Enthusiast

Brenden Burnham

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, 2009_Suburban said:

Is the ACDelco Gold bearings good? Its not technically the genuine one, but they are still the same company that makes the genuine one.

 

Also, the other wheel moves when I move it up and down (but not left and right), but the brake caliper and other stuff move with it, and it stops moving at the upper ball joint. This means the wheel bearing for the other wheel is fine right?

If it were me, if you are getting bad up and down movement as well as side to side I would replace both control arms instead of trying the ball joints.  At a minimum you have to rent a ball joint press to do that part if doing the ball joints.  Replacing the control arm is the route to go.  I would do both side control arm and also Wheel hub bearing.  As the other may be on the way out as well.  

 

Some good videos.  

 

 

 

Edited by Brenden Burnham
2009_Suburban Enthusiast

2009_Suburban

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Here are the tools and parts I have, or I will be getting. Wheel bearing, sockets, ratchets, wrenches, torque wrench, jack, jack stands, WD-40, and a breaker bar. Is there anything else I will need to change the wheel bearings? Would I have to grease anything?

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

 you should clean and lube the knuckle where the bearing seats so a drill with a wire wheel will help. make sure you clean the mating surface so the new bearing doesn't have a bunch of rust under it. never seize the axle stub. the jobs easier if you disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and push the axle in as far as it will go. don't use a pickle fork on the tie rod though, just give the knuckle where the tie rod taper is a couple wacks with a hammer and it should pop loose. DO NOT hit the threaded part!

2009_Suburban Enthusiast

2009_Suburban

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Will I need loctite for anything? Also, I got a 36 mm  socket for the axle nut. Other posts on similar forums said it was either 35 or 36 mm. The 36 mm socket seems to rotate back and forth slightly, but is a six point. It will probably get the nut off fine, but will it lead to inaccurate torque when I put the nut back on?

Edited by 2009_Suburban
richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

you could re locktite the 3 bolts but its really not neccesary, just get them good and tight, torque them if you can get a socket on them, you will be ok with the 36, clean the threads and give them a shot of WD

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