Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
57 minutes ago, Homewrecker007 said:

The dealership has me on a tight leash in order to keep my lifetime powertrain warranty I have to go back to them for every maintenance 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the first time ever I purchased an extended warranty and my dealer approved us using Amsoil products in the truck and I do. 

 

I had them install Amsoil top of the line diff, and AT fluids.  Watched them do it but they could not suction out the front diff so I took it home and did it myself. 

 

The truck is smoother with Amsoil and gets better MPG with it installed.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

When I go in for a service I'll look into getting Amsoil 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Homewrecker007
  • Like 1
Posted

I’m lucky and the dealer I deal with is dependable and I had them put AMSOIL ATF in my 10sp and I did the differential’s and transfer case. 

  • Like 1
Posted

My dealer wants $630 for trans fluid change in my 2019 10-speed. I am shocked. I will be shopping around. 

Posted
On 1/14/2023 at 7:36 AM, KARNUT said:

I did my avalanche myself with Amsoil. I ran a suction device down the transmission dipstick twice in a week. The rear end had a drain I could go under without jacking up. It was too easy to farm out. The Acura, the Geneses and CRV are done at the dealerships. I spread out the extras like antifreeze and brake fluid so not done all at once. I’ve been using those dealerships for over 20 years. Both have windows so you can watch and I do. I make it known I’m watching. Early on I’d check their work. The dealer prices are competitive with even the quick lube. I make appointments so it’s fairly quick. I just did the Acura. Inspection, oil change and state inspection took one hour. Enough time to look at all the new overpriced inventory. 

So  KARNUT, you basically suctioned out as much of the transmission fluid you could through the dipstick pipe and filled the transmission back up.  Did this again after driving around to mix it all up feel you got most of it out.  I guess you could do this three times if you wanted.  Just wondering as I might try this myself.

Jim

Posted
7 hours ago, jagabom (Esquire) said:

So  KARNUT, you basically suctioned out as much of the transmission fluid you could through the dipstick pipe and filled the transmission back up.  Did this again after driving around to mix it all up feel you got most of it out.  I guess you could do this three times if you wanted.  Just wondering as I might try this myself.

Jim

That’s how I did it. I used to pull the transmission line put it in neutral and pump it out on new vehicles. Some vehicles don’t have dip sticks now. My avalanche had 168K miles on it when I bought it 3 years ago. Had detailed service records showing no transmission fluid service. If the fluid was dirty or smelly I would have dropped the pan. I’m actually surprised it’s still performing I expected it to need rebuilding before now. It’s not a long distance driver so I don’t worry with it. 

  • Like 1
Posted

My last 14 GMC 4.3 I pulled the transmission line at the rad and did the same as you.  One thing on that truck was the trans fluid went from the bottom of the rad to the top then out.  Found that strange but maybe so the fluid doesn't get cold.  Anyways on my 2017 4.3 I am not sure which way the fluid pumps.  I guess I will find out. 

Thanks

Jim

  • Like 2
Posted
On 1/16/2023 at 2:45 PM, Minnvmax said:

My dealer wants $630 for trans fluid change in my 2019 10-speed. I am shocked. I will be shopping around. 

My dealer charged me $130 to exchange out the fluid in my 10sp and I provided the fluid.  So that is an option.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

600 is a rip off price.  I took my GMC to this Chevy HD truck dealer because they had a dedicated trans tech whereas the GMC Dealer (same company-different location) had ech with very limited trans experience. 

PS - The Service rep "Whitney" told me the tech said to tell me he uses AMSOIL as well.  Thumbs up.

spacer.png

Edited by elcamino
  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, jagabom (Esquire) said:

My last 14 GMC 4.3 I pulled the transmission line at the rad and did the same as you.  One thing on that truck was the trans fluid went from the bottom of the rad to the top then out.  Found that strange but maybe so the fluid doesn't get cold.  Anyways on my 2017 4.3 I am not sure which way the fluid pumps.  I guess I will find out. 

Thanks

Jim

 

Going it the bottom has the hottest transmission fluid exchanging with the coldest coolant. Counter Current it's called. More efficient that Co-current. It also prevents air entrapment. FYI. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 470 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...