Jump to content

Can you "flip the pill" on a 2014 4.3 Silverado?

Jayselectricco

By Jayselectricco
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
Posted

Here is my issue... I have a 2014 Silverado 4.3 4x4 with 130k miles, I got one of those Range AFM disablers and it was working great with no issues.  I was driving down the interstate the other day and seen my transmission temp up to 240.  So I "flipped the pill," or reversed the transmission thermostat, and also replaced transmission fluid (by siphoning and refilling from dipstick tube).  Right after that the same day I am driving I get some weird shifting, almost like the 2 stages in the torque converter isn't working, almost like its staying in 1 stage.  It goes in limp mode and I get the codes p0741 and p0700... So... did my torque converter just go out with the new fluid? Or is my transmission filter clogged causing this? Is it something to do with flipping the pill? Is it the Range screwing with my TCM? What do you guys think? Thanks

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

6 Causes of P0700 Code on Chevy Silverado (Fixes Included) - MechanicHope

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

Not on mine either. I use a Linear Logic Scan Gauge II for that function. Soon I hope the III model.  

newdude
newdude

Its possible.  The design of the converter is the real issue at the end of the day.  Drop the pan and check the magnet.  If it was 240F for a long time, I'd be concerned about further damages to other

Posted Images

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

It's my opinion that changing the transmission fluid, especially the way you have from the top, will not mess-up your torque converter as many other say. I have been doing the ATF change for 30 years, even on a BMW X3 (w/GM transmission) with 132k miles & all looked very good & now has almost 200k on it. I also just pulled the pan to replace a leaky pan gasket on my '05 330iC with 109k miles yesterday, also a GM transmission, & the filter, fluid, magnet & pan still looked very good. Just an old hard seal.

See if you can clear the codes & see if they come back. I'm also curious, how did the old fluid look & smell?

  • Like 1
Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, rav3 said:

It's my opinion that changing the transmission fluid, especially the way you have from the top, will not mess-up your torque converter as many other say. I have been doing the ATF change for 30 years, even on a BMW X3 (w/GM transmission) with 132k miles & all looked very good & now has almost 200k on it. I also just pulled the pan to replace a leaky pan gasket on my '05 330iC with 109k miles yesterday, also a GM transmission, & the filter, fluid, magnet & pan still looked very good. Just an old hard seal.

See if you can clear the codes & see if they come back. I'm also curious, how did the old fluid look & smell?

The fluid was old and dark looking, didn't smell burnt but didn't smell too good either. I have heard that the 4.3 doesn't have the transmission cooler like the 5.3s do, and I wonder if turning the thermostat around has somehow caused this problem? I did clear the codes and drove it down the road and back, kind of seemed like from 3rd to 4th gear when it changes gears it revs back up to where it was before it shifted but did seem like it changed gears, and then going in to  5th and 6th was fine... I don't hear any noises or don't have any shuttering, and it feels like the transmission is shifting better except for that weird shift its doing.

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

I would run it for a bit, say 500+ miles & change it again. I also like the LubeGuard ATF additive. I change my '17 5.3L 6 speed ATF fluid at 30k, then about every 10k-12k miles after that (or every 2nd oil change) the same way you do, sucking 4-5 qts out the dip stick fill tube. It's cheap insurance. I also did the pill flip & run the Range AFM Disabler. If you have the thermostat bypass device on the side of your transmission, it does circulate the ATF to the radiator for cooling. With the pill flip your transmission should run same temps as the earlier 4 speed GM transmission as far a temp goes, as they didn't have that device. It's been added to keep the fluid hotter, to make it thinner fluid for the EPA mileage stuff, same as the stupid AFM was added to increase EPA mileage mandated by the government.  Good luck

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Jayselectricco said:

Here is my issue... I have a 2014 Silverado 4.3 4x4 with 130k miles, I got one of those Range AFM disablers and it was working great with no issues.  I was driving down the interstate the other day and seen my transmission temp up to 240.  So I "flipped the pill," or reversed the transmission thermostat, and also replaced transmission fluid (by siphoning and refilling from dipstick tube).  Right after that the same day I am driving I get some weird shifting, almost like the 2 stages in the torque converter isn't working, almost like its staying in 1 stage.  It goes in limp mode and I get the codes p0741 and p0700... So... did my torque converter just go out with the new fluid? Or is my transmission filter clogged causing this? Is it something to do with flipping the pill? Is it the Range screwing with my TCM? What do you guys think? Thanks

 

 

P0741 = you need a converter.  Those temps were probably a sign it was going.

 

Range didn't cause it.  Nor did the pill flip.  

  • Like 1
Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

P0741 = you need a converter.  Those temps were probably a sign it was going.

 

Range didn't cause it.  Nor did the pill flip.  

So your saying that the fluid change probably washed away the gunk that was keeping it functional? Do you think its possible that the filter could be clogged up? I guess I could drop the pan and see if there is any metal in there.  If there is no metal could the converter still be bad? Thanks

Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you! Yeah it is crazy to have a transmission thermostat in my opinion, and then not have the high temp warning come on until 260 something... if that thermostat starts sticking it will cook peoples transmissions before they even know they have a problem.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, Jayselectricco said:

So your saying that the fluid change probably washed away the gunk that was keeping it functional? Do you think its possible that the filter could be clogged up? I guess I could drop the pan and see if there is any metal in there.  If there is no metal could the converter still be bad? Thanks

 

 

Its possible.  The design of the converter is the real issue at the end of the day.  Drop the pan and check the magnet.  If it was 240F for a long time, I'd be concerned about further damages to other clutches as well.  Also, if the converter was bad enough, likely has put damage to the pump as well.  

  • Like 2
Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

Its possible.  The design of the converter is the real issue at the end of the day.  Drop the pan and check the magnet.  If it was 240F for a long time, I'd be concerned about further damages to other clutches as well.  Also, if the converter was bad enough, likely has put damage to the pump as well.  

Ok thanks, I will drop the pan and check it out.

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Jayselectricco said:

So you have the 4.3? What do your transmission temperatures normally run?

 

Now? It's rare to see it over 160 F unless I am sitting dead in traffic. Down the road at 62 mph 138/148 F dead of winter and 148/165F heat of summer. Nothern Ilinois. -25F to 100F is our range. I'm currently using the new GM thermostat. Changed last fall. The 2014 and early 2015's have a different line connection but the 'guts' will interchange.

 

Or flip. I ran that for a long time with slightly cooler results in the winter but nothing worrisome. I also run a colder water thermostat and this matters because OUR trans cooler is the right-side tank of the radiator. Cold side. Here' is some data I've collected over the last 7+ years. The yellow is the new GM TBV and the other two with a pill flip and noted water thermostat. Not plotted is factory with factor water stat. Ran about 25F warmer across the board. Saw 240F a few times flogging on her on hot days. 

 

Hope that is useful. 

 

image.thumb.png.9563ad229b6dd36a54702567d0251192.png

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Jayselectricco Enthusiast

Jayselectricco

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so I am just getting around to dropping the pan, I haven't been driving it.  There is no metal whatsoever or anything shinny in the pan or on the magnet, just some sludgy looking stuff on the magnet.  So is this a sign that the transmission and converter may still be good? I am changing the filters and fluid with AC delco fluid, and putting in one of those surecool thermal bypass and going to see what happens.

  • Like 1
steelerdude15 Enthusiast

steelerdude15

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, Jayselectricco said:

Ok so I am just getting around to dropping the pan, I haven't been driving it.  There is no metal whatsoever or anything shinny in the pan or on the magnet, just some sludgy looking stuff on the magnet.  So is this a sign that the transmission and converter may still be good? I am changing the filters and fluid with AC delco fluid, and putting in one of those surecool thermal bypass and going to see what happens.

Yup, sounds like everything is still good to me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...