Jump to content

Factory “tint” or dyed glass, does it reduce UV, heat, etc?

ero2
 Share

Recommended Posts

ero2 Enthusiast

ero2

Posted
Posted

Not sure how I can’t find a definitive on this, but, I am trying to decide if I put a clear UV tint behind the factory tint, or if it already provides the same benefit as tint and should just do the fronts to match the back and be done.

 

When I was young, and no kids, I just wanted it to look cool, now I’d love the UV/heat benefit all around, but was curious on how the factory “tint” holds up.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, ero2 said:

Not sure how I can’t find a definitive on this, but, I am trying to decide if I put a clear UV tint behind the factory tint, or if it already provides the same benefit as tint and should just do the fronts to match the back and be done.

 

When I was young, and no kids, I just wanted it to look cool, now I’d love the UV/heat benefit all around, but was curious on how the factory “tint” holds up.

 

 

Right from the folks at GM:

 

21-NA-152: Information on Glass Ultraviolet (UV) Ray Protection and Tint Percentage

Ultraviolet Ray Protection:

Windshield reduces UV rays down to 4% or less.

Front side door glass reduces UV rays down to 35% or less.

Rear window, doors, or 1/4 glass reduces UV rays down to 35% or less (Without RPO AJ1 or AKO).

Rear window, doors, or 1/4 glass reduces UV rays down to 10% or less if equipped with Privacy Glass (With RPO AJ1 or AKO).

Sunroof reduce to 10% or less.

 

Tint Percentage:

Windshields are SOLAR glass with a light transmittance of >/=70%.

Front door glass are Solar glass with a light transmission of >/=70%.

Rear door glass, quarter windows and back windows can use either Solar glass (>/=70%) or Privacy glass, which has a light transmittance of (nominally) 20%.

*Basically, if the glass is 'light green' in color, it is solar glass. If it is the dark gray/black glass, it is Privacy glass.

reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted

If your intention is to reduce cabin heat, I'd leave your windows as is. Tinted glass doesn't reduce cabin heat an appreciable amount. 

ero2 Enthusiast

ero2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Right from the folks at GM:

 

21-NA-152: Information on Glass Ultraviolet (UV) Ray Protection and Tint Percentage

Ultraviolet Ray Protection:

Windshield reduces UV rays down to 4% or less.

Front side door glass reduces UV rays down to 35% or less.

Rear window, doors, or 1/4 glass reduces UV rays down to 35% or less (Without RPO AJ1 or AKO).

Rear window, doors, or 1/4 glass reduces UV rays down to 10% or less if equipped with Privacy Glass (With RPO AJ1 or AKO).

Sunroof reduce to 10% or less.

 

Tint Percentage:

Windshields are SOLAR glass with a light transmittance of >/=70%.

Front door glass are Solar glass with a light transmission of >/=70%.

Rear door glass, quarter windows and back windows can use either Solar glass (>/=70%) or Privacy glass, which has a light transmittance of (nominally) 20%.

*Basically, if the glass is 'light green' in color, it is solar glass. If it is the dark gray/black glass, it is Privacy glass.

So it would seem that throwing an extra layer of ceramic tint on my back 3 windows (crew cab) will be little to no benefit.  If I want the windows to match, throw some tint on the front, but ultimately it’ll all “work” or provide the same benefit?  Am I Reading that right?

None12 Enthusiast

None12

Posted
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, ero2 said:

So it would seem that throwing an extra layer of ceramic tint on my back 3 windows (crew cab) will be little to no benefit.  If I want the windows to match, throw some tint on the front, but ultimately it’ll all “work” or provide the same benefit?  Am I Reading that right?

I put 3M ceramic tint over all of my "privacy dyed" glass and the front two windows. I've already noticed a difference in the temperature when my truck sits in the sun all day. the inside doesn't get as hot as it used to, and the sun doesn't "burn" my skin while driving.

 

When my tint shop measured the original level of the "privacy dyed" glass, the front two windows were 70% and the rear windows were 24%.

Edited by LAAC
Wiggums Senior Enthusiast

Wiggums

Posted
Posted

In many cases, the darker ones don't do much.

 

The ceramic tint, oh, goodness! Huge difference. What sucks is that when it's cold, my interior doesn't warm up as much as it used to! Ha ha, but it's good in the summers. Can't win 'em all.

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 3/2/2023 at 9:21 AM, ero2 said:

So it would seem that throwing an extra layer of ceramic tint on my back 3 windows (crew cab) will be little to no benefit.  If I want the windows to match, throw some tint on the front, but ultimately it’ll all “work” or provide the same benefit?  Am I Reading that right?

 

Pepper came with the RPO code AKP GLASS, SOLOR ABSORBING , and I added 3M Solar Tint over all of it to the darkest legal for my state and the maximum 6" front visor. The heat reduction was unmistakable and now eight years later the interior still looks new. 

 

IMG_0160.thumb.JPG.93773348112168fad50fad7c51c2ce7d.JPGIMG_0760.thumb.JPG.c17d2e4d160dffb5387bd385bfe3c59e.JPG

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
ero2 Enthusiast

ero2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
43 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Pepper came with the RPO code AKP GLASS, SOLOR ABSORBING , and I added 3M Solar Tint over all of it to the darkest legal for my state and the maximum 6" front visor. The heat reduction was unmistakable and now eight years later the interior still looks new. 

 

IMG_0160.thumb.JPG.93773348112168fad50fad7c51c2ce7d.JPGIMG_0760.thumb.JPG.c17d2e4d160dffb5387bd385bfe3c59e.JPG

 

 

So ceramic over whatever the rears came with (guess I need to look at my window sticker?) would provide good heat reduction, keep the interior nicer, etc?

 

Ultimately, it’s worth the cost to put something in addition to what the truck ships with all around?

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, ero2 said:

So ceramic over whatever the rears came with (guess I need to look at my window sticker?) would provide good heat reduction, keep the interior nicer, etc?

 

Ultimately, it’s worth the cost to put something in addition to what the truck ships with all around?

 

I have solar glass and the tint reduced temps even more. AC is never taxed. But yes, look at newdudes RPO codes. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is. 
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • davester
      Disconnecting Battery

      By davester · Posted

      If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • davester
      Disconnecting Battery

      By davester · Posted

      It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...