Jump to content

Considering adding sway bars

Russ757

By Russ757
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

Russ757 Enthusiast

Russ757

Posted
Posted

Did a search, but wasnt any real one stop reviewing that I found. Was looking at the next project (just installed 5100s) and was looking at picking up some anti sway bars. Have a 2020 RST/4wd so would be looking to do both. Some info on the hellwigs but its over 1K for both. Found the belltech which look similar and found for about $650. I dont do a ton of towing but lots of spirited highway driving to work. 

 

Looking for some input if anyone has gone this route or think it was a waste to install period

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, Russ757 said:

Did a search, but wasnt any real one stop reviewing that I found. Was looking at the next project (just installed 5100s) and was looking at picking up some anti sway bars. Have a 2020 RST/4wd so would be looking to do both. Some info on the hellwigs but its over 1K for both. Found the belltech which look similar and found for about $650. I dont do a ton of towing but lots of spirited highway driving to work. 

 

Looking for some input if anyone has gone this route or think it was a waste to install period

Big waste of money.

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Silverado4x4 said:

Big waste of money.

COMPLETE LIE!!!  I installed bigger swaybars on my 05 Dodge Magnum RT. Had stock suspension otherwise with 75K miles on it. It had front and rear sway bars but they were small. Put the Petty Garage sway bars on it and it was INSANE how much better it made it handle at stock height! I always thought lowering was what made a vehicle handle better. I had never upgraded sway bars until then. I want to put at least a rear bar on my Trail Boss but haven't decided if I'm going to go with just a rear Helwig bar or go with the Belltech pair.

  • Like 2
davidr83 Enthusiast

davidr83

Posted
Posted

I did both front and rear hellwigs on my 2021 RST 6.2. It handles turns/corners much better. Was it worth the cost? depends on you goals. For me it was. After i added the hellwigs, i got the beltech drop coilovers up front along with a regular set of Bilstein yellow monotubes in the back, its way better than stock handling ever was. Much sportier and controlled in all driving aspects. If worried about costs, try the rear bar 1st. It made more of a difference on previous trucks ive added them to. This time i did both at the same time so i cant compare just the rear with stock front bar.

  • Like 3
Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
Posted

Do what dram mentioned above and try the rear first. You will notice a big difference in the handling at high and low speeds. I have the Hellwig bar on the rear and stock on the front and I'm still happy the the purchase.  

 

  • Like 2
Russ757 Enthusiast

Russ757

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/13/2023 at 7:11 PM, Rook126 said:

Do what dram mentioned above and try the rear first. You will notice a big difference in the handling at high and low speeds. I have the Hellwig bar on the rear and stock on the front and I'm still happy the the purchase.  

 

 

 

Ironically that's what I was kinda thinking. Spending a bit more on the rear and grabbing a stock front from eBay with links. 

 

But wasn't sure about removing all doubts and grabbing the belltech and calling it a day 

 

Most of what Ive read people consistently mentioning it tightening everything up. Esp if you upgraded to the Bilsteins 

 

 

But everyone agrees get the rear bar first? 

  • Like 1
davidr83 Enthusiast

davidr83

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Russ757 said:

 

Ironically that's what I was kinda thinking. Spending a bit more on the rear and grabbing a stock front from eBay with links. 

 

But wasn't sure about removing all doubts and grabbing the belltech and calling it a day 

 

Most of what Ive read people consistently mentioning it tightening everything up. Esp if you upgraded to the Bilsteins 

 

 

But everyone agrees get the rear bar first? 

Correct

  • Like 1
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted

I would put the suspension components(front springs and four shocks) you want on there first and see if that takes care of your issue.  Replacing shocks and front springs on my truck created a world of difference in hauling a boat and tractor around, particularly in body roll and bounce.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Russ757 Enthusiast

Russ757

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Gangly said:

I would put the suspension components(front springs and four shocks) you want on there first and see if that takes care of your issue.  Replacing shocks and front springs on my truck created a world of difference in hauling a boat and tractor around, particularly in body roll and bounce.  

 

 

Alraady have the bilstein 5100 front and rear. Pretty decent improvement but still wanting to tighten her up. 

 

I'm not in a rush so will keep my eyes open for deals. 

 

Dram.. I appreciate your constructive inputs man. 

  • Like 1
KOLDUS2023RST Enthusiast

KOLDUS2023RST

Posted
Posted

i emailed hellwig and they said the same ones will fit my 23 rst but their website only lists up to 21 at this time weird...

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, KOLDUS2023RST said:

i emailed hellwig and they said the same ones will fit my 23 rst but their website only lists up to 21 at this time weird...

Nothing was changed on the rears of the trucks, just the front and interior. Usually they don't update their websites or fitment until they have confirmed it themselves.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Acpantera Enthusiast

Acpantera

Posted
Posted
On 3/12/2023 at 9:19 AM, Russ757 said:

Did a search, but wasnt any real one stop reviewing that I found. Was looking at the next project (just installed 5100s) and was looking at picking up some anti sway bars. Have a 2020 RST/4wd so would be looking to do both. Some info on the hellwigs but its over 1K for both. Found the belltech which look similar and found for about $650. I dont do a ton of towing but lots of spirited highway driving to work. 

 

Looking for some input if anyone has gone this route or think it was a waste to install period

I have been considering a rear bar for my 21RST, The Hellwig 7780 seems like the go to, although it's $700. The Belltech 5519 looked like an alternative at $300, but Belltech states theirs is for lowered suspensions only (flipped springs?). I don't see why it wouldn't work on a standard set up, I like how it's anchored to the frame better than the Hellwig deal.

Has anyone installed the Belltech 5519???

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

The Belltech kit for lifted trucks is 9928

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • Atlas
      AC diagnostic on a neo-classic Camaro

      By Atlas · Posted

      tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Byrds8
      Ac not keeping up

      By Byrds8 · Posted

      Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • KARNUT
      Ac not keeping up

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • Silverado4x4
      Ac not keeping up

      By Silverado4x4 · Posted

      AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...