Jump to content

Weird Camper brake problem...

Jettech1
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My wife is so sweet, she really is...I love that lady with every cell in my body...but my humor....yeah.....she get's disturbed at times....she's like WTF?  Really...???  I'm like hey, it's humor...we should have sold him when he was 5......then she rolls her eyes and I can see a little laugh trying to come out....it's humor.....perhaps more on the Dave Chappelle humor...lol

  • Haha 1
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dr1ft3r
Dr1ft3r

The gain does matter when you squeeze the manual controller. That's how you set the gain to the correct value. You drive at 25 mph on level pavement and squeeze the manual controller. The gain should

Ausslo
Ausslo

Think of it this way, there is no difference in pushing the brake or sliding the switch when it comes to activating the trailer brakes, gain controls the amount of trailer braking for both actions. Th

Jettech1
Jettech1

This is the video I should have watched from the beginning explaining everything you all explained to me.  How in the hell I got my wires crossed so bad I will never know.  But thank you all for being

Posted Images

64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

I wish I could just walk out my front door to my camper and do that too.  It's being stored at my aunt and uncles house 2.5 hours from us because we don't have the room here.  But I would totally be doing that too if it was 30ft from me.  

Its more like 80 ft away, in the barn, collecting dust since its pollen season right now up here. 

  • Like 1
Ausslo Enthusiast

Ausslo

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf

Pg 5 "electric brakes" outlines the operation. The wheel MUST be rotating in order for the shoes to be moved into the drum surface. It isnt much but its not like automotive hydraulic brakes that press the pads of shoes into the friction surface by hydraulic pressure rather than a leverage type force. 

"Electric Brakes" MUST be rotating is just a little misconceiving for people that know nothing about the mechanics of it. They do not have to be rotating (Rolling), they do have to rotate just a few inches once the magnet is actuated by the peddle or the controller before it engages the shoe to the drum, so if you are sitting still on flat ground in drive let off the brake pedal and engage the brakes with the controller it should not roll far at all before you feel them engage if gain is properly set. 

Ausslo Enthusiast

Ausslo

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, 64BAwagon said:

 

 

Not sure what your point is. What I said was accurate. 

Just clarifying, what I said is more accurate and self explanatory. 🙃

UWSkier Enthusiast

UWSkier

Posted
Posted

If you haven't ever burnished your brakes, you should do that.  Major difference in trailer brake strength once the shoes are properly burnished.

64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Ausslo said:

Just clarifying, what I said is more accurate and self explanatory. 🙃

We will have to agree to disagree. I wasnt trying to flex, just pass on info. 

Ausslo Enthusiast

Ausslo

Posted
Posted
43 minutes ago, 64BAwagon said:

We will have to agree to disagree. I wasnt trying to flex, just pass on info. 

Not flexing either just clarifying, if you read the entire post you might understand. Not sure what you disagree with we are saying the same thing with the exception that it has to rotate some to engage- not be rotating, there is a difference. 

Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey gents, I appreciate all the comments here.  You all have educated me and got me back on the right track.  I truly am very appreciative for it all...group hug... 🤗

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...