Jump to content

Seat covers

IDBrett
 Share

Recommended Posts

IDBrett Enthusiast

IDBrett

Posted
Posted

In search of a good quality seat cover. Due to kids my wife wants "waterproof" for the back row. We've had leather for years and the 23 2500HD is our first cloth seat in some time. For me I like it. It gets hot in SW Idaho in the summer and once leather warms up it stays warm. But for practicality I have to agree with my wife. Happy wife, happy life.

 

I've looked at Marathon, Dashdesigns and others. But just a few minutes ago reading in another thread. @Kjduvall mentioned Vertex off road, synthetic leather. I'm liking those a lot. The pics of the fit and finish look great. They are expensive and lead time seems to be a common complaint (worth the wait it is said). 

 

As expensive as our truck was for us it will be with us for a lonnngg time.

 

 

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted (edited)

I’m a bit ocd for cleanliness so I have no covers in the front. In the back I use a very technological approach called towels. I picked up the cheapest black towels on Amazon and laid two big ones across the back seat. They drape over nicely. 

Edited by Pryme
  • Like 2
waltman Enthusiast

waltman

Posted
Posted

I have a set of Rough Country neoprene that will be on their 3rd truck as of tomorrow, 4 years. They fit well and are durable.

  • Like 1
IDBrett Enthusiast

IDBrett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had my wife look at the synthetic leather seat covers on Vertexs' site. She likes the look. But like me....the price. It'll have to wait. In the meantime we "need" to get something on the back seat for the kiddos. We're about a month out from our first camping trip/ road trip. Something for then will have to do. Thanks for the suggestions.

Sonders Enthusiast

Sonders

Posted
Posted

I bought a full set of oem replacement leather seat covers and swapped out my factory cloth covers for the leather.  Purchased for half the price of Vertex (which was what I was originally going to get) and spent 2 evenings replacing all of them.  They didn't require any special tools to swap out, and in the end they are exact fit as opposed to slip on covers.

  • Like 2
IDBrett Enthusiast

IDBrett

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 5/23/2023 at 12:12 PM, Sonders said:

I bought a full set of oem replacement leather seat covers and swapped out my factory cloth covers for the leather.  Purchased for half the price of Vertex (which was what I was originally going to get) and spent 2 evenings replacing all of them.  They didn't require any special tools to swap out, and in the end they are exact fit as opposed to slip on covers.

Did you order them through your dealer? Assuming you did, that's a great idea. I was about to say "why didn't I think of that?" But then again prior to my new truck I haven't owned anything new enough in the last 20 years that I could order something like that from the dealer. Thanks!

 

EDIT: Won't work in my case. I don't have rear seat storage. And that is the only way leather rear seats are made. I would have to replace the rear seat.

Edited by IDBrett
Sonders Enthusiast

Sonders

Posted
Posted

oh man that's a bummer.  Vertex is the best fitting slip on covers I've seen.

  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
Core-Lokt Enthusiast

Core-Lokt

Posted
Posted

Are there any rear covers that retain access to the seatback doors? I've got some cheap Amazon covers on the front, but would like to get the rear covered.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...