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Any RustProofing, Underbody coating experience or thoughts?


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37 minutes ago, Pryme said:

You got out of St. Cloud before it got bad there. I know that area and it was sad to see that area decline so much over the years. 

Yeah it was okay when we were there. I have a lot of family and friends living from Detroit Lakes down to Minneapolis these days, and nearly all of them want out.

 

My sister in Minneapolis is constantly in harms way and fearing for her safety, but she'll never move. 

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1 hour ago, the8rotor said:

Yeah it was okay when we were there. I have a lot of family and friends living from Detroit Lakes down to Minneapolis these days, and nearly all of them want out.

 

My sister in Minneapolis is constantly in harms way and fearing for her safety, but she'll never move. 

Mpls is trying hard to catch Detroit and Chicago. They have made great strides at reaching their goals lol. Total dumpster. 

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7 hours ago, C/K Man said:

GM still using the Nox-Rust wax on the chassis?  I would be carefull about getting aftermarket rust-proofing chemicals on the wax.

 

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just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

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1 hour ago, jd64 said:

just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

 

Can't argue with that!  I have heard of some products disolving or excessively softening the wax.  The Daubert 121X is the factory material in a spray can.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, jd64 said:

just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

Sounds like a project farm deal here. Nice work. 
 

I used a slightly easier method. I just sprayed a small area of the frame(3in small area)with fluid film, which has no solvents in it I believe, and watched it over time.  No degradation to the frame wax. I also tested it on those white strips of seam sealer beads all over on the body panels. No change to those either. 
 

I do like the stuff you used being it won’t wash off nearly as easy as fluid film. 

Edited by Pryme
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