Any RustProofing, Underbody coating experience or thoughts?

[the8rotor]

37 minutes ago, Pryme said:

You got out of St. Cloud before it got bad there. I know that area and it was sad to see that area decline so much over the years. 

Yeah it was okay when we were there. I have a lot of family and friends living from Detroit Lakes down to Minneapolis these days, and nearly all of them want out.

 

My sister in Minneapolis is constantly in harms way and fearing for her safety, but she'll never move. 

[Pryme]

1 hour ago, the8rotor said:

Yeah it was okay when we were there. I have a lot of family and friends living from Detroit Lakes down to Minneapolis these days, and nearly all of them want out.

 

My sister in Minneapolis is constantly in harms way and fearing for her safety, but she'll never move. 

Mpls is trying hard to catch Detroit and Chicago. They have made great strides at reaching their goals lol. Total dumpster. 

[C/K Man]

GM still using the Nox-Rust wax on the chassis?  I would be carefull about getting aftermarket rust-proofing chemicals on the wax.

[jd64]

7 hours ago, C/K Man said:

GM still using the Nox-Rust wax on the chassis?  I would be carefull about getting aftermarket rust-proofing chemicals on the wax.

 

[jd64]

just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

[C/K Man]

1 hour ago, jd64 said:

just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

 

Can't argue with that!  I have heard of some products disolving or excessively softening the wax.  The Daubert 121X is the factory material in a spray can.

[Pryme]

2 hours ago, jd64 said:

just use the MSDS sheets for what ever product want to use as a reference. section #3 shows the % of solvents. i narrowed it down to a few different ones i thought would be good and compared the solvent percentage , bought a few cans of Daubert 121x which is what the GM TSB says to use for repair on the GM frames .i also bought some of each material i wanted to possibly use. i cut  4x6 metal test panels, sprayed  4 with paint and 4 with the 3 coats of Daubert 121x wax, let them sit a week or so and then sprayed them with  each of the 4 rustproofing material's i wanted to use to see if it would any would attack the wax and none did. i wasn't shy with the spray either . i also dropped puddles in the center of each test panel to see if a heavier amount would attack the Daubert wax and none did. each of the 4 materials showed 30%-60% solvents or less on their MSDS sheet. that's how  i ended up using the Tectyl 846 class 1 material.    like i mentioned in a earlier post the Tectyl 846 is a direct cross for original Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 Industrial and was considerably less money than anything with the Comoline brand name on it,  i spent alot of time and a few bucks to experiment and prove it to myself that i wasn't gonna wash the wax of the frame of a brand new truck. I get a good sampling at work of the GM trucks that come through my shop for comparison. fluid film and wool wax work great on the  older rusty ones but that stuff is messy to work around,  but you need to use something more of a wax material on the new ones .  I  Did mine  about a month ago and it has set up nicely, much firmer than the GM wax but still plenty soft enough to dig your finger nail in to and doesn't rub of on your skin near as bad as the original GM wax does and i dont think it will dry out much more.    i also bought a few spray cans from Cosmoline Direct to try both of their versions it does dry to the touch and does stay waxy, but its alot thinner  and doesnt build like the Tectyl does,   Hope all this info will help i had a ton of time sorting it out.

Sounds like a project farm deal here. Nice work. 
 

I used a slightly easier method. I just sprayed a small area of the frame(3in small area)with fluid film, which has no solvents in it I believe, and watched it over time.  No degradation to the frame wax. I also tested it on those white strips of seam sealer beads all over on the body panels. No change to those either. 
 

I do like the stuff you used being it won’t wash off nearly as easy as fluid film. 

Edited May 25, 2023 by Pryme

[Kerry Pulaski]

Woowax has a new thinner product called "Creep & Crawl", to weep into cavities like door skins, and rocker panel lap seem spotwelded areas. Said will migrate better than any other product.

 

I found on my GM trucks, the frame coating will peel off eventually, even tho it's still waxy to the touch. It is sprayed onto the bare steel, that must be still oily, and why it does not adhere well. The frames Should Be Phosphate Coated before that is applied, or any other coating.

I saw my GM dealer, with  an almost new crew cab dually, with the bed off, and cab / nose lifted up on a 2 post. I asked the service mgr. what that was all about ???  Said owner complained about the peeling off of the frame coating. We are stripping it all off, and doing it the right way.

So I asked if this was a re-call ??   A silent one he said, ONLY if the customer complains, will out GM rep authorize a re-coating.

I had them do the same on mine, a '16 3500HD, new at the time.

A Woolwax rep. told me, he has been trying to get GM to use his product,  like he sells to other US auto mfg's.

Said still cannot get to first base with anyone at GM.

My local Woolway dealer, said he waits two years or so to do the GM truck frames, but coats everything else. Just did my '24HD.

Hope this helps.

[Pryme]

15 minutes ago, Kerry Pulaski said:

Woowax has a new thinner product called "Creep & Crawl", to weep into cavities like door skins, and rocker panel lap seem spotwelded areas. Said will migrate better than any other product.

 

I found on my GM trucks, the frame coating will peel off eventually, even tho it's still waxy to the touch. It is sprayed onto the bare steel, that must be still oily, and why it does not adhere well. The frames Should Be Phosphate Coated before that is applied, or any other coating.

I saw my GM dealer, with  an almost new crew cab dually, with the bed off, and cab / nose lifted up on a 2 post. I asked the service mgr. what that was all about ???  Said owner complained about the peeling off of the frame coating. We are stripping it all off, and doing it the right way.

So I asked if this was a re-call ??   A silent one he said, ONLY if the customer complains, will out GM rep authorize a re-coating.

I had them do the same on mine, a '16 3500HD, new at the time.

A Woolwax rep. told me, he has been trying to get GM to use his product,  like he sells to other US auto mfg's.

Said still cannot get to first base with anyone at GM.

My local Woolway dealer, said he waits two years or so to do the GM truck frames, but coats everything else. Just did my '24HD.

Hope this helps.

Gm dips the whole frame into the wax coating. They don’t spray it on. 

[C/K Man]

There were rumors GM was going to an E coat process on the frames, but it has not happened yet.

[Pryme]

2 hours ago, C/K Man said:

There were rumors GM was going to an E coat process on the frames, but it has not happened yet.

They e coat the midsized trucks already. Surprised they haven’t switched them all over. 

[C/K Man]

Colorado/Canyon always had E-coated frames, even the first generation.  The Savanna/Express use the Nox-Rust wax.

[64BAwagon]

I have seen a number of the 2000's era Colorado and Canyons where the frames are rusted through to the point where the truck is scrap. The last one had no rust through on the body but the frame was full of holes. I am not sure the E-coat is the answer. 

I have tried frame painting, undercoating and smearing grease on the full size frames, I am stuck on Fluid film now. For me I think its the best solution. 

[C/K Man]

4 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

I have seen a number of the 2000's era Colorado and Canyons where the frames are rusted through to the point where the truck is scrap. The last one had no rust through on the body but the frame was full of holes. I am not sure the E-coat is the answer. 

I have tried frame painting, undercoating and smearing grease on the full size frames, I am stuck on Fluid film now. For me I think its the best solution. 

 

Both the 1st. gen. Toyota Tacoma and Ford F-150 had E-coated frames, and I think they were the worst for frame corrosion

[Kerry Pulaski]

On my '24 HD, I have spent a lot of hours under it, adding wiring, rear anti-sway bar etc. The frame vertically is wax dipped, seeing the drips from cross-members.

Still they are dipping a non-phosphated or oil cleaned bare metal frame. Thus this goooey wax will flake / fall off in a year or so, still being sticky to the fingers.

All my HD's from 2013, the coating flaking off, 1 to 2 years latter, would still stick to my hands so well, needed Go-Jo or paint thinner  to get it off. But would not stay adhered to bare steel.

The frames must be chemically cleaned / dipped, before the black wax dip.

I deal with metal welding, cutting and fabrication over 45 years.  GM has a problem with this process.

GM  WILL strip and re-coat your frame IF you complain within the warranty. They did my new 2013 Dually, after I found out, seeing another customer's truck lifted off the chassis at my dealer.